Dow Williams - Aug 16, 2021 6:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2021
South Buttress to South Ridge, unique Laughing Falls Descent
We ran through the South Buttress climb. The double pendulum was not near as big a deal as some make it on MP.com. Fairly pedestrian I thought compared to what I was expecting. There is some horrible beta at Mp.com regarding how to get to that point. There are several "detached flakes". The final one you stand on before climbing up and right through two pitons (2021) is a large one with a chimney behind it. The last pitch I did was a 5.10 variation up a short right facing corner to the hand traverse. Several ways to get there though. Then the bowl and the arduous journey up the never ending south ridge. Definitely some exposed 5th class soloing in places. We downclimbed the upper south ridge and utilized an ancient descent route down the origins (glacier) of Laughing Falls. Almost 15 70m rope raps in total. Three down to the glacier (and the only running water anywhere in sight in late summer!). One down the far right end of the first water fall you encounter. Then you have to bypass the massive 3 pitch tall waterfall below by escaping the glacier ditch on the right shoulder and descending a dry canyon. Occasionally I found rusty pitons to let me know others had done the descent. Slinging boulders, reslinging old hardware and leaving some wires in 2021. After about three raps, the rock gets white and slabby and you contour back left from this dry canyon into the main glacier ditch where the waterfalls are just incredibly beautiful, atop and below you. If you had winter access, this could be the longest technical ice climb in the world. Meander the slabs, eventually crossing the main waterfall to the left and make a steep rap. Then cross back to the right and locate that start of a steep set of five or six raps (would make a wonderful technical rock climb!). The first one requires tensioning over to skiers right. Then down several slung boulders to a rap down a steep corner. This is the only one we did that a 70m did not reach a ledge and boulder. We hung in the corner on gear and then cleaned it on down climb so a 70m still will not reach if you are using this descent route. An 80m would make it easy. A few more raps to a broad ledge near the bottom of the falls. Hike skiers right and locate a slung boulder (we added in 2021). By using this rap, you will only have one rap to the ground. If going straight down, it would require an additional rap or two. Most of these raps had not been used for years. An ice climbers dream if you could be dropped in by heli with supplies. Just friggin amazing canyon, highlight of the climb for me for sure.
It has been almost twenty-eight years since I climbed the DSB with Alois, thirty summers after the first ascent in 1953. If you want to experience the original climb, DO the original descent as described in Fifty Classic Climbs. You will demonstrate your Teton mettle. Climb to the top of the Buttress, but don’t go down that tempting gully. Who knows where you will end up at the end of the rope! I still remember how angry the GTNP ranger was when we checked in less than one day overdue. I am confident they occasionally bivied on their long climbs too.
Bill Krause and I climbed this mega-classic and historic route in 1987. Bill told me about this being one of the longest mountaineering routes in the lower US, if you go all the way to the summit of Mt. Moran. I recall thinking how well the route was put together, because on both sides of it, is much more difficult rock. The line weaves its way among very steep, technical terrain. We thought at the time, that this was truly Classic Teton Alpine Climb. We found the rating about IV+, 5.8, A1, there was no difficult aid on it. We used BD Stoppers to aid the hard (5.12) section. Once past the top of the buttress, the climbing is never harder than 5.7, but many roped pitches and a lot of scrambling is required to reach the summit. If you go all the way to the summit (recommended and Grade V+) take a three day permit, especially if you are not very familiar with Tetons backcountry. Superb, quality route in great alpine setting.
reboyles - Mar 1, 2010 1:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1979
Classic
Curt Olson and I did this fine route and then descended the Blackfin Route which I had climbed with Mike Weber a few years earlier. Knowing where the Blackfin goes was a big help. I think we did 6 or 7 full length rappels to get off.
Dow Williams - Aug 16, 2021 6:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2021
South Buttress to South Ridge, unique Laughing Falls DescentWe ran through the South Buttress climb. The double pendulum was not near as big a deal as some make it on MP.com. Fairly pedestrian I thought compared to what I was expecting. There is some horrible beta at Mp.com regarding how to get to that point. There are several "detached flakes". The final one you stand on before climbing up and right through two pitons (2021) is a large one with a chimney behind it. The last pitch I did was a 5.10 variation up a short right facing corner to the hand traverse. Several ways to get there though. Then the bowl and the arduous journey up the never ending south ridge. Definitely some exposed 5th class soloing in places. We downclimbed the upper south ridge and utilized an ancient descent route down the origins (glacier) of Laughing Falls. Almost 15 70m rope raps in total. Three down to the glacier (and the only running water anywhere in sight in late summer!). One down the far right end of the first water fall you encounter. Then you have to bypass the massive 3 pitch tall waterfall below by escaping the glacier ditch on the right shoulder and descending a dry canyon. Occasionally I found rusty pitons to let me know others had done the descent. Slinging boulders, reslinging old hardware and leaving some wires in 2021. After about three raps, the rock gets white and slabby and you contour back left from this dry canyon into the main glacier ditch where the waterfalls are just incredibly beautiful, atop and below you. If you had winter access, this could be the longest technical ice climb in the world. Meander the slabs, eventually crossing the main waterfall to the left and make a steep rap. Then cross back to the right and locate that start of a steep set of five or six raps (would make a wonderful technical rock climb!). The first one requires tensioning over to skiers right. Then down several slung boulders to a rap down a steep corner. This is the only one we did that a 70m did not reach a ledge and boulder. We hung in the corner on gear and then cleaned it on down climb so a 70m still will not reach if you are using this descent route. An 80m would make it easy. A few more raps to a broad ledge near the bottom of the falls. Hike skiers right and locate a slung boulder (we added in 2021). By using this rap, you will only have one rap to the ground. If going straight down, it would require an additional rap or two. Most of these raps had not been used for years. An ice climbers dream if you could be dropped in by heli with supplies. Just friggin amazing canyon, highlight of the climb for me for sure.
bkrause - Jun 12, 2015 9:45 pm
with AloisIt has been almost twenty-eight years since I climbed the DSB with Alois, thirty summers after the first ascent in 1953. If you want to experience the original climb, DO the original descent as described in Fifty Classic Climbs. You will demonstrate your Teton mettle. Climb to the top of the Buttress, but don’t go down that tempting gully. Who knows where you will end up at the end of the rope! I still remember how angry the GTNP ranger was when we checked in less than one day overdue. I am confident they occasionally bivied on their long climbs too.
asmrz - Sep 5, 2011 1:54 pm
The Complete DSB, V+, 5.8, A1Bill Krause and I climbed this mega-classic and historic route in 1987. Bill told me about this being one of the longest mountaineering routes in the lower US, if you go all the way to the summit of Mt. Moran. I recall thinking how well the route was put together, because on both sides of it, is much more difficult rock. The line weaves its way among very steep, technical terrain. We thought at the time, that this was truly Classic Teton Alpine Climb. We found the rating about IV+, 5.8, A1, there was no difficult aid on it. We used BD Stoppers to aid the hard (5.12) section. Once past the top of the buttress, the climbing is never harder than 5.7, but many roped pitches and a lot of scrambling is required to reach the summit. If you go all the way to the summit (recommended and Grade V+) take a three day permit, especially if you are not very familiar with Tetons backcountry. Superb, quality route in great alpine setting.
reboyles - Mar 1, 2010 1:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1979
ClassicCurt Olson and I did this fine route and then descended the Blackfin Route which I had climbed with Mike Weber a few years earlier. Knowing where the Blackfin goes was a big help. I think we did 6 or 7 full length rappels to get off.