Not sure how many people plan to go up here in the Winter as there was no information I could find, so hope the below helps:
ROAD - Same as Eldo, Cascade River Rd can get snowed or have debris preventing travel to the Eldorado Peak Climbers Trailhead.
TRAIL - In Winter 2024 Feb 22 the log crossing was in good condition and easily passable. This information would be the same on Eldo.
CLIMB - McAllister Glacier was relatively easy to navigate but we did take a slightly southerly approach at the start to avoid crevasses/bergschrunds as visibility wasn't the best. The snow climb up the Northwest Ridge of the Needle was in good condition with no moat, given it was a low snow year I would think most Winters would have no to minimal moat later into the season. We were able to climb up to the start of the rock portion of the climb with one/two axes. Anchor points were a little harder to find and required some digging (As expected), I used one/two cams for a crack but mostly webbing/slings for pro. Two tools were required and a fair amount of drytooling was involved as the snow wasn't strong enough in some areas. Most cracks were not filled in with Ice but were hard to find due to snow. The ridge was a little easier (In ways) since they were covered in snow and easier to walk but we were cautious since the snow could give way and its hard to see where its rock vs just snow. Overall the snowpack was relatively firm and easy to climb with two axes and ski boots/crampons.
hhayashi - Feb 22, 2024 11:24 am - Hasn't voted
Winter detailsNot sure how many people plan to go up here in the Winter as there was no information I could find, so hope the below helps:
ROAD - Same as Eldo, Cascade River Rd can get snowed or have debris preventing travel to the Eldorado Peak Climbers Trailhead.
TRAIL - In Winter 2024 Feb 22 the log crossing was in good condition and easily passable. This information would be the same on Eldo.
CLIMB - McAllister Glacier was relatively easy to navigate but we did take a slightly southerly approach at the start to avoid crevasses/bergschrunds as visibility wasn't the best. The snow climb up the Northwest Ridge of the Needle was in good condition with no moat, given it was a low snow year I would think most Winters would have no to minimal moat later into the season. We were able to climb up to the start of the rock portion of the climb with one/two axes. Anchor points were a little harder to find and required some digging (As expected), I used one/two cams for a crack but mostly webbing/slings for pro. Two tools were required and a fair amount of drytooling was involved as the snow wasn't strong enough in some areas. Most cracks were not filled in with Ice but were hard to find due to snow. The ridge was a little easier (In ways) since they were covered in snow and easier to walk but we were cautious since the snow could give way and its hard to see where its rock vs just snow. Overall the snowpack was relatively firm and easy to climb with two axes and ski boots/crampons.