Echo Cove, West Wall, 5.9-5.10c

Overview/Approach

This small wall is listed separately in the local guide as “Echo Cove, Far Left”.  However, there are two opposing walls that make up the true "cove" that is Echo Cove and only one has a western face, the south facing wall.  This end face features a totally different quality rock and style of (bolted) climbing than the south face.  It is a relatively short wall with a slight overhang.  One route traverses most of this wall, Eileen Dover, 5.10c.  Interesting enough, Miramontes does not give this route a recommendation in his index of routes or on the “Echo Cove Far Left” page, but does list it as one of the top ten “mild sport” routes in the park and labels it 5.10b in that list but 5.10c on the destination page.  Miramontes confusion aside, it would not make my top 10 of any grouping in the park, sport or otherwise, but it is a fun, well bolted, traverse on mostly jugs with maybe two moves at the grade.  It crosses Pincher, 5.9*, and finishes up Ben Dover, 5.10a*.  These two routes are also fully bolted routes ending at fixed raps.  They are both worthy as well, but short.  This wall gets good afternoon shade.

Park at the small parking area off the gravel road at the west end of Echo Cove.  Take the two-minute hike to the west end of the long south facing Echo Cove wall.  This wall is well varnished and darker in nature.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face this West Facing Wall

Ben Dover- 30’-5.10a*/ Stout fully bolted climb at the grade.  Two bolts do most of the protection.  Sporty making the first clip.  Then the crux moves up and over steep awkward jugs/side pulls.  Has its own fixed rap.  Dow

Pincher- 30’-5.9*/ Fun and steep, but short route through mostly jugs to its own fixed rap.  Dow

Eileen Dover- 45’-5.10c/ Interesting enough this route is mentioned as one of the top ten moderate sport climbs in the park in Miramontes guide, but he fails to give it a star rating.  Interesting traverse, right to left, through Ben Dover and the Pincher.  Sustained and pumpy.  Bouldery start, but well protected. Some intricate side pulls with minimal feet midway through is the crux.  Rap Ben Dover.  Dow