Echo Dome, 5.8-5.10

Overview/Approach

Echo Dome is one of the more easily accessible climbing features at Charon Gardens.  Combine accessibility with the fact that several of its routes are fully bolted and the rock is cleaner than most features in the refuge, help make it one of the more popular walls (relative) at Wichita.  The dome has one face offering true western exposure and only six routes, all of which are moderate.  All six can be climbed in one morning by an efficient party. 

Finger Lickin’ Good, 5.10-R**, a variation finish to Little Sherman Creature Crack, 5.8****, offered the most interesting climbing up a set of parallel shallow finger cracks that you can stem.   Little Sherman is soft for the grade by Wichita standards and therefore offers a straight forward hand crack lead for budding leaders at the grade.  Crack Pipe, 5.9**, Frosted Flakes, 5.9***, and Worm Hole, 5.8***, all offer interesting moves and features in their upper sections making this wall a delightful warm up for the more difficult routes on the Pear and Apple or Secret Agent Dome further up trail.

Park at the Sunset parking lot or if the gate is closed, just before the gate.  Hike a trail west past bathrooms and across a bridge.  Continue to very nice stone steps (2021) that lead through the Charon Gardens, made up of small oak trees that provide 100% shade. Continue on the trail until you reach a primitive sign (2021) showing the left turn for Treasure Cove.  Turn left (south) and in short order you will be hiking alongside Echo Dome’s west face.  Scramble up the north end, climb routes left to right and walk down a ramp at the south end.  Approximately a 20-minute approach.

Routes Descriptions, Left to Right on the West Facing Wall

Lady Bugs and Gentlemen- 80’-5.9+***/ Fully bolted.  The local guide calls it 5.9+ but suggests 5.10 friction moves at the start.  In reality, this wall is graded much softer than the rest of the refuge therefore this pitch felt 5.9 easy enough.  Start on the lower wall and clip bolts up the left side of the wall to a fixed rap.  West facing.  Dow

Crack Pipe- 80’-5.9**/ Engaging route for the grade.  Start up the wide crack that makes up the left side of the “H”.  When it fades out, make a move through a bolt at top to a fixed rap.  West facing. Dow

Frosted Flakes- 80’-5.9***/ Fully bolted.  Next line right.  Has several really cool mantle moves near the end.  Rap anchor.  West facing.  Dow

Finger Likin’ Good- 80’-5.10-R**/ This is a variation finish to Little Sherman Creature Crack.  Take the left leaning seam near the top of Sherman.  Stem between narrow runnels to Frosted Flakes rap anchor.  West Facing.  Single to #2.  Dow

Little Sherman Creature Crack- 80’-5.8****/ Climb the obvious crack up the right side of the “H” climbing up and right at the jog, staying with the hand crack to either rap anchors above.  West facing.  Single to #2.  A good one to teach on at the grade.  Dow

Worm Hole- 80’-5.8***/ A fun sport climb on the right side of the wall.  Pulling over an arch at mid height is cool.  West facing.  Well bolted fun.  Dow