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Fury

Fury - Feb 13, 2006 4:38 pm - Hasn't voted

Right of the gully...

Hi Peter,

Great trip report and photos Peter! I am considering the President and VP as objectives for a trip this summer. In Selected Apline Climbs he suggests that there are two options for the Emerald Lake approach 1: the way you went and 2: take to the rocks right of the gully. Did you take note of the terrain to the right of the gully? Does it look like there is a simple line to reach the glacier? Thanks.

I've enjoyed you other submissions as well. Keep 'em coming.

Cheers,

Colin

pvalchev

pvalchev - Feb 14, 2006 10:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Right of the gully...

Hi Colin,

The last picture on the trip report shows very well what you talk about. The line would be on the right of the gully and no, it does not look like a simple line. Since it's very loose (even for Rockies standards, when I say loose here I mean it), it would not be a pleasant/simple proposition. Seriously, go to Stanley Mitchell hut, and do the classic north glacier route. It's much easier and much more pleasant to be walking on snow as opposed to rubble. Stay there for a few days and do some of the other scrambles there too and enjoy.

Good luck
-Peter

Fury

Fury - Feb 17, 2006 6:16 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Right of the gully...

Yeah the rock in that area on the Rockies is definitely loose. I was in the Little Yoho Valley last summer and really enjoyed it. I don't think that I want to spend too much time in one area this summer. I would rather pick objectives that can be done in one day so that I can easily move to where the weather is most favorable. Thanks for the info Peter.

Colin

Ario

Ario - Dec 10, 2006 6:13 pm - Voted 10/10

bis repetita

amazing! Deb, Nicolai and me experienced the same late August and turned around just before the glacier for the same reasons !

pvalchev

pvalchev - Dec 10, 2006 8:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: bis repetita

Thanks for posting that, it's good to hear we weren't the only ones that made the trek there :)

bencolver - May 8, 2007 3:37 pm - Hasn't voted

re: Emerald Lk approach

Hi, My partner and I climbed the Pres and VP via the glacier about one month before your trip. On the summit of the Pres at 10am we watched repeated serac and ice falls break off under the morning sun and thunder down the Emerald Lake approach. I would say stay away unless the temps are v cold. As for the N glacier route, it is very fun and straightforward. Beware of several large holes at the col that may be hidden. The summit views are as good as any I've seen anywhere. Cheers.

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