Great TR gurlyclimber! The opening two paragarphs set the stage - a lot of us have been somewhere similar. The story is story is indeed an epic, and scary. The closing sentences gracefully wrap it all up. Nice work.
One question: Why did your partner choose to construct a rap anchor from only one piece? Were you low on gear? Going super-duper light? Didn't want to lose any more gear than that?
If I ever had a partner who set up an anchor with one nut, and then suggested I rap off it, I'd either laugh or slap him across the face!
He was just cutting corners. He honestly felt and said to me that that nut was the most bomber nut he had ever placed. In his eyes, he felt perfectly safe because he had done it before. He doesn't make stupid decisions like that any more.
He was just cutting corners. He honestly felt and said to me that that nut was the most bomber nut he had ever placed. In his eyes, he felt perfectly safe because he had done it before. He doesn't make stupid decisions like that any more.
Gurly - Nice TR. It surely hit's home for those of us with children at the house waiting for our return. I too had a face to face meeting with my mortality & I've since scaled back on my naive boldness. Hope you experienced/learned well from it & that the Alpine Classic's continue to quench your thirst.
For me, it's no longer a persuit of the most bad-ass summer/winter alpine climb, but rather a long list modest routes so that I can be around to take my daughter up the North Ridge of Spearhead or the Cables Route on Longs...maybe even the Petit!
That's a gripping report, vividly described. I'm very glad you came back to write it! Your good instincts pulled both of you through.
For anyone interested in learning more about the little-known route Snark itself, scene of this close call ... there's a good discussion with beta and the divergent impressions of three different parties posted on mountainproject.com:
Hell yes! I was climbing White Cliff in Colorado its on the side of a highway and a major trucking route so you can't hear your partner. He had just moved the TR anchor and I was going to lower him down. So I tied in to one end of the rope (but not yet run the rope through the belay plate) and then I heard a God aweful scream and looked up to see him free falling way above me. A million thoughts went through my mind, like, had the anchor failed? Was he not tied on at all? Did I not just tell the kid's father we knew what we were doing and that we would be safe, the night before? Is this really curtains for my best friend? I just grabbed the rope with my bare hands and was some how able to stop him and he pulled himself over to a ledge. Long story short, we both were emotional- schoolboy emotional. One takes on certain responsibility for the other and I'm sure that if I wasn't standing right by the rope, he'd be gone, same as your friend if you hadn't suggested backing it up. So I know exactly the types of thoughts you were having and this article is a staunch reminder to never take ANYTHING in climbing or life for granted-great job!
Nelson - Sep 23, 2005 9:07 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentGreat TR gurlyclimber! The opening two paragarphs set the stage - a lot of us have been somewhere similar. The story is story is indeed an epic, and scary. The closing sentences gracefully wrap it all up. Nice work.
Ed F - Sep 23, 2005 11:15 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentNice TR.
One question: Why did your partner choose to construct a rap anchor from only one piece? Were you low on gear? Going super-duper light? Didn't want to lose any more gear than that?
If I ever had a partner who set up an anchor with one nut, and then suggested I rap off it, I'd either laugh or slap him across the face!
-ed
Foxy Long Bottoms - Sep 23, 2005 11:29 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentThanks Ed.
He was just cutting corners. He honestly felt and said to me that that nut was the most bomber nut he had ever placed. In his eyes, he felt perfectly safe because he had done it before. He doesn't make stupid decisions like that any more.
Ed F - Sep 23, 2005 4:21 pm - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentHe was just cutting corners. He honestly felt and said to me that that nut was the most bomber nut he had ever placed. In his eyes, he felt perfectly safe because he had done it before. He doesn't make stupid decisions like that any more.
Aha. Glad you guys got down safely.
dadndave - Oct 29, 2005 3:38 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentThat was very well written piece. You might have a hidden talent for writing.
Foxy Long Bottoms - Oct 29, 2005 3:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentThanks D&D! That's a huge compliment.
jwclimbs - Dec 28, 2005 12:26 am - Hasn't voted
Trip Report CommentGurly - Nice TR. It surely hit's home for those of us with children at the house waiting for our return. I too had a face to face meeting with my mortality & I've since scaled back on my naive boldness. Hope you experienced/learned well from it & that the Alpine Classic's continue to quench your thirst.
For me, it's no longer a persuit of the most bad-ass summer/winter alpine climb, but rather a long list modest routes so that I can be around to take my daughter up the North Ridge of Spearhead or the Cables Route on Longs...maybe even the Petit!
-JW
LHamilton - Jan 6, 2007 4:42 pm - Voted 10/10
3 views of SnarkThat's a gripping report, vividly described. I'm very glad you came back to write it! Your good instincts pulled both of you through.
For anyone interested in learning more about the little-known route Snark itself, scene of this close call ... there's a good discussion with beta and the divergent impressions of three different parties posted on mountainproject.com:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/rmnp__rock/105759429
Asphazell - Jul 6, 2007 1:46 am - Voted 10/10
IntenseI remember you telling me this story, but wow...that is some freaky shite! Glad you are both ok
eric b - Jul 7, 2007 7:11 am - Voted 10/10
"Did I even have the right to feel traumatized?"Hell yes! I was climbing White Cliff in Colorado its on the side of a highway and a major trucking route so you can't hear your partner. He had just moved the TR anchor and I was going to lower him down. So I tied in to one end of the rope (but not yet run the rope through the belay plate) and then I heard a God aweful scream and looked up to see him free falling way above me. A million thoughts went through my mind, like, had the anchor failed? Was he not tied on at all? Did I not just tell the kid's father we knew what we were doing and that we would be safe, the night before? Is this really curtains for my best friend? I just grabbed the rope with my bare hands and was some how able to stop him and he pulled himself over to a ledge. Long story short, we both were emotional- schoolboy emotional. One takes on certain responsibility for the other and I'm sure that if I wasn't standing right by the rope, he'd be gone, same as your friend if you hadn't suggested backing it up. So I know exactly the types of thoughts you were having and this article is a staunch reminder to never take ANYTHING in climbing or life for granted-great job!