Snowslogger - Dec 4, 2023 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2012
Great Climb
Great trip with my friends Steve H, Chris, and Gary. A lightning light show the first night that then cleared. We up the fairly steep snow couloir to the col, and climbed in two groups of two. We simuclimbed a lot, and I lead the crux pitch (5.5-5.6?) as I had rock shoes on. Very fun rock. Two of us bailed at the false summit (west summit?) as we heard lightning in the distance.
jef80 - Jan 24, 2021 10:45 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2019
Amazing route
Great climb!
travel_murse - Nov 18, 2019 6:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2019
Classic
Alpine fun
chrisc - Sep 11, 2018 1:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2018
jacobsmaki - Aug 18, 2016 10:41 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2016
So much fun!
We did and east to west traverse - it was awesome! One of my favorites!
Diggler - Jun 26, 2015 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2015
Great route
West ridge, with my baby. Incredible mountain/route. Her first: backpacking trip; ice axe/crampons usage; glacier crossing; unplanned bivy :) True alpine. Hard to beat the North Cascades for alpine ambiance...
2016-08-06 via West Ridge as part of Torment-Forbidden Traverse (Solo up and down)
09/20/2014 Climbed with Rob via the West Ridge car to car. We had a slow relaxing blue bird day. Not a cloud anywhere.
I'm a peak-bagger, so when fresh snow made the Torment-Forbidden traverse too treacherous, I looped around to scramble the easier, but still snow-covered walk-off route. Trip report.
Adam and I tried it in a one day push. We got within 200m of summit via W ridge but will have to go back (for traverse?). Great route with awesome guy. great exposure!
got lost finding trail on route out and my wife was close to calling a rescue when she hadn't heard from us too late...
dan-o - Jan 8, 2013 10:44 am Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2012
Fun Route
Great way to finish the endless summer of 2012.
Diggler - Oct 3, 2012 3:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2011
better luck next time
Attempt with Faith. After doing the grueling approach in the rain the previous day/eve, camp & mountain were socked in the next morning. Didn't clear up until 11ish, & we both decided that would be way too late of a start. Boston Basin in beautiful, at any rate, & I plan to be back :)
Josh Lewis - Sep 23, 2012 12:56 am Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2012
Great Climb via West Ridge
I agree with Matt's statement. The route was pretty mellow but was a lot of fun. But I admit I was a bit tired when it was over. The glacier is very melted out, now it's getting to the point where the crevasses reach rock bottom. I would definitely recommend this to a friend.
Matt Lemke - Sep 22, 2012 11:37 pm Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2012
West Ridge
Climbed the west ridge in late season. Not much snow on the approach glacier. We climbed the western most scratch gully to the west of the major snow gully due to all the snow melted out. This was class 3 and 4. Contrary to what is said below, the gully was quite nice and NOWHERE near as loose as we were told. A few cams made it easy while simul-climbing up. I never thought the climbing on the ridge itself was harder than 5.5
incredible route (east ridge) and setting. highly recommended, amazing alpine route with excellent exposure. west ridge downclimb was nice too, rapping not necessary. Labor day 2011. One party on west ridge, no one else on mountain. c2c ~14 hours
C2C. Lot's of people on the ridge unfortunately. The descent via the ledges was horrible what a pile of cat litter. Be careful with people rapping above you. Good chance you'll be dodging missiles!
Snowslogger - Dec 4, 2023 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2012
Great ClimbGreat trip with my friends Steve H, Chris, and Gary. A lightning light show the first night that then cleared. We up the fairly steep snow couloir to the col, and climbed in two groups of two. We simuclimbed a lot, and I lead the crux pitch (5.5-5.6?) as I had rock shoes on. Very fun rock. Two of us bailed at the false summit (west summit?) as we heard lightning in the distance.
jef80 - Jan 24, 2021 10:45 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2019
Amazing routeGreat climb!
travel_murse - Nov 18, 2019 6:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2019
ClassicAlpine fun
chrisc - Sep 11, 2018 1:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2018
Summit in the smoke!Successful climb trip report during the "Smoke Storm of 2018" https://gethighonaltitude.com/2018/08/19/forbidden-peak-west-ridge/
jacobsmaki - Aug 18, 2016 10:41 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2016
So much fun!We did and east to west traverse - it was awesome! One of my favorites!
Diggler - Jun 26, 2015 3:53 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2015
Great routeWest ridge, with my baby. Incredible mountain/route. Her first: backpacking trip; ice axe/crampons usage; glacier crossing; unplanned bivy :) True alpine. Hard to beat the North Cascades for alpine ambiance...
Mooner - Sep 21, 2014 6:39 pm
Up I Go2016-08-06 via West Ridge as part of Torment-Forbidden Traverse (Solo up and down)
09/20/2014 Climbed with Rob via the West Ridge car to car. We had a slow relaxing blue bird day. Not a cloud anywhere.
seano - Jul 28, 2014 12:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2014
East "ridge"I'm a peak-bagger, so when fresh snow made the Torment-Forbidden traverse too treacherous, I looped around to scramble the easier, but still snow-covered walk-off route. Trip report.
bcory2003 - Sep 16, 2013 1:01 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013
West RidgeLong climb up the west ridge with great weather!
GirlBeta - Aug 6, 2013 8:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2013
West RidgeLONG but great day.
blueshade - Aug 1, 2013 8:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2013
West RidgeSolo on the West Ridge. Loose on the bypass gully and less than stellar holds. Ridge itself was fun and exposed.
JonW - Jun 28, 2013 9:59 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2013
West RidgeClassic.
MattK - Jun 26, 2013 3:30 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2013
AwesomeClimbed via the classic West Ridge. Super awesome route.
Vinny - Jun 6, 2013 1:50 pm
fun dayAdam and I tried it in a one day push. We got within 200m of summit via W ridge but will have to go back (for traverse?). Great route with awesome guy. great exposure!
got lost finding trail on route out and my wife was close to calling a rescue when she hadn't heard from us too late...
dan-o - Jan 8, 2013 10:44 am Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2012
Fun RouteGreat way to finish the endless summer of 2012.
Diggler - Oct 3, 2012 3:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2011
better luck next timeAttempt with Faith. After doing the grueling approach in the rain the previous day/eve, camp & mountain were socked in the next morning. Didn't clear up until 11ish, & we both decided that would be way too late of a start. Boston Basin in beautiful, at any rate, & I plan to be back :)
Josh Lewis - Sep 23, 2012 12:56 am Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2012
Great Climb via West RidgeI agree with Matt's statement. The route was pretty mellow but was a lot of fun. But I admit I was a bit tired when it was over. The glacier is very melted out, now it's getting to the point where the crevasses reach rock bottom. I would definitely recommend this to a friend.
Matt Lemke - Sep 22, 2012 11:37 pm Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2012
West RidgeClimbed the west ridge in late season. Not much snow on the approach glacier. We climbed the western most scratch gully to the west of the major snow gully due to all the snow melted out. This was class 3 and 4. Contrary to what is said below, the gully was quite nice and NOWHERE near as loose as we were told. A few cams made it easy while simul-climbing up. I never thought the climbing on the ridge itself was harder than 5.5
zoomloco - Sep 13, 2011 3:32 pm
east to west c2cincredible route (east ridge) and setting. highly recommended, amazing alpine route with excellent exposure. west ridge downclimb was nice too, rapping not necessary. Labor day 2011. One party on west ridge, no one else on mountain. c2c ~14 hours
SKI - Jul 25, 2011 9:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011
12 Hours West RidgeC2C. Lot's of people on the ridge unfortunately. The descent via the ledges was horrible what a pile of cat litter. Be careful with people rapping above you. Good chance you'll be dodging missiles!