Scott - Aug 11, 2024 8:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2024
Grand Teton
July 28: Jacy and I hiked to the Lower Saddle today in order to climb the Grand Teton. It was a really windy night!
July 29: I climbed the Grand Teton with Jacy (OS route), but didn't get many photos since it was so smoky and to save the phone battery.. That part was a big disappointment. We also helped someone down who was having problems.
The climb was nice and one I wanted to do for a long time, but I sure wish the skies weren't so smoky. The climb wasn't bad, but the descent hurt my feet. I'm still glad I got to climb the iconic mountain.
Old college roommate and I summitted The Grand Teton via the Upper Exum route. He had last climbed it 20 years ago, and I had never climbed it.
We camped overnight in Garnet Meadows. Beautiful campsite with plenty of water and space, but it was about 2 hours from the saddle which added a lot of time in the morning.
A guide leading another group helped us place protection for the Step Across, and we were on our own the rest of the climb. We used protection on all of the main pitches, as well as on the West-Leaning Chimney and BPITS. Felt relatively safe all the way up.
We just brought 3 cams, 2", 1', and 3/4". We had maybe 8 blockers, but we never used them.
Our route finding on the descent was pretty bad. We did Sargent's Rap and the Main 30m rap. We then got off course somehow and ended in an area that cliffs out, but there was an undocumented bailout rap station that looked like it was setup by the Rangers. So that was helpful.
danbknox - Sep 15, 2022 4:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2022
OS
great one day with exum
Hotoven - Jul 27, 2020 8:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2020
Long day hike
Climbed with friend Jeremy. Did Owen Spalding route car to car in a day. Very icy but a perfect day to climb. Trip Report coming.
7/24/20 w/Nicole Edwards. Beautiful day on the Grand. Very icy on the OS, which made for a spooky first lead experience, but super fun regardless.
Andy73c - Jul 7, 2020 4:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1988
Grand Teton
Summited Grand Teton via Owen Spaulding route at age 12
freedeep - Mar 25, 2020 8:05 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1986
A good technical climb practice
Day hike to Middle and South Tetons, then an overniter at upper saddle, then Wall Street and over the top. Good practice climb.
jeffrawn - Jan 12, 2020 9:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2017
Enjoyable Climb with JHMG
Fires out west made for very poor visibility. Stunning all the same.
merrill - Aug 22, 2019 6:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2019
upper exum
My friend Steve wanted to lead the Upper Exum to celebrate his 60th birthday. Thanks to those on the summit with us that helped me sing happy birthday to him.
Upper Exum Ridge. First to the summit that day, a little before 8. Went down OS route
eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017
Led the Owen Spalding route in a day-trip
No camping, just a long hike through the night; fun climbing and amazing summit; with Coby
JLuthanen - Sep 12, 2018 11:55 am Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2018
Via Upper Exum
Camped at Lower Saddle 9/8 ... started 5:30am, topped out at 5:30pm as a result of several unintended 'variations'. Added some 5.7 / 5.8 off width cracks and weird bouldering problems that resulted in beached whales and knee jams to get through. This mountain is gigantic, and the ease with which you can get off course should not be underestimated. The real fun of this create your own epic started on the descent ... both major rap stations off the Owens Spalding sent and were awesome (tied 60m to our 70m on the long overhanging lower rap station with another couple for lots of time savings). However, we lost light around 8pm and bobbled via headlamp down an unfamiliar route to both of us for the next 2.5hrs, involving two raps in the dark, one slip on an overhang near 'threading the needle' in reverse, which resulted in minor chest trauma / likely broken ribs. We got back to Lower Saddle camp by 10:45pm ... ultimately safe and sound, stuck it out in the wind one more night, and hiked out Monday. I think this can be doable in a long day with light equipment and knowing the route by heart. Weather was perfectly clear the entire time we were there, which is atypical. Several climbing parties got turned away by 'Thunder Snow' up high Saturday AM - everything was easy going beyond that. Stoked!
Garon Coriz - Sep 4, 2018 9:13 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2018
Finally Summited
After visiting the Tetons several times and having to settle for one of the other peaks or routes, I finally got to the summit via Upper Exum. Matt and I hiked to Petzoldt Caves and camped in bivy sacks. We had the place to ourselves! We woke up at 7:30 and headed up the mountain at 8:30 along with 4 others who started from the trailhead. The wind on the saddle was fierce and zapped our energy so we scrapped the option of doing the whole Exum. After getting through the Eye of the Needle and attaining the ridge with a great view of Wall Street, the wind died down some and the sun was out in force.
We roped up on Wall Street, which was a little breezy in the shade. We halved the rope to 30 meters and simul-climbed the whole thing in 3 long “pitches.” Melting snow made some of the easier moves off limits so some 5.7 moves were required, but still quite the moderate classic. The summit wasn’t too windy, the skies we clear, and no one else was there. Incredible place on top!
The descent was a little tricky in trailrunners on snow but boot tracks helped a ton. Raps were simple without hiccups. On the descent in the gully below the Upper Saddle, we managed to go too far left, which made for some interesting 4th class downclimbing on snow, rock, and ice. There was a cool section with a tunnel beneath some boulders that bypassed a steep section I thought we might have to rappel. I slipped in a chimney and hit my left shoulder and face that resulted in minor scrapes.
In the moranal camping field, some lovely folks from Colorado offered us a tasty beer and conversed with us for 10 minutes or so. We managed to get back to the caves around 7 pm to find it still without any other parties despite the several we saw at the moranal camp. A splendid day devoid of any rushing or major complications. Yes!
kteichert - Aug 6, 2018 8:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2018
Happy 2 year anniversary
My 2 year wedding anniversary fell on a Saturday this year, and I think I've successfully annoyed my wife enough, that she begged me to go climb a peak for our anniversary, instead of having to spend time with me. So I picked a big one! This mountain is the most spectacular stash of rocks I have ever been on! What a beautiful chunk! I did a free solo of the OS route. Started at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead at 4am, and summitted in 4.5 hours. The California wildfires led to smoky views, but they were still stunning.
wilderleavitt - Jan 29, 2018 9:03 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2003
First Technical Rock Climbing Summit
Amazing climb entirely in snow following Owens Spaulding route.
What a great, majestic mountain! We had a great and speedy ascent up the ridge, with clear skies all around. A bit windy and gusty, but dry and fun climbing. I would go up and do this route again tomorrow. Hope to be back for this mountain and its neighbors in the future.
geeman - Jul 16, 2017 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2017
It takes two
Still a lot of snow on the mountain. Traveling to the lower saddle required crampons and ice axe. We had to turned back the day before after reaching the black dyke above the lower saddle due to thunderstorms. Submitted via the Owen-Spalding just in time before snow showers hit us during the rappels on the way down.
Timeline: departed JHMG high camp at 3am, summit at 10am, back to the Lupine Meadows trailhead at 8pm with one hour break below JHMG camp.
rtgomez90 - May 4, 2017 10:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2016
Our biggest yet
Stayed at the moraines. Summit around 1 pm and back to the car around midnight
yadahzoemtn - Mar 18, 2017 5:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2016
Grand INDEED
07/27/16: Best ever. Shared the summit with Broc, Jenny, Dan, Phil. Deb was our base camp manager.
Wheelbarrow - Jan 21, 2017 5:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2016
OS Route Fer Dayz
Did it again 7 days later! Can't wait to come back more experienced and conquer the Exum Ridge.
I started this summer in no shape to attempt a technical climb but after continually challenging myself week after week I gathered the experience and confidence to free solo this monster.
Scott - Aug 11, 2024 8:37 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2024
Grand TetonJuly 28: Jacy and I hiked to the Lower Saddle today in order to climb the Grand Teton. It was a really windy night!
July 29: I climbed the Grand Teton with Jacy (OS route), but didn't get many photos since it was so smoky and to save the phone battery.. That part was a big disappointment. We also helped someone down who was having problems.
The climb was nice and one I wanted to do for a long time, but I sure wish the skies weren't so smoky. The climb wasn't bad, but the descent hurt my feet. I'm still glad I got to climb the iconic mountain.
wd.lewis@gmail.com - Aug 9, 2024 10:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2024
Upper Exum mid-July 2024Old college roommate and I summitted The Grand Teton via the Upper Exum route. He had last climbed it 20 years ago, and I had never climbed it.
We camped overnight in Garnet Meadows. Beautiful campsite with plenty of water and space, but it was about 2 hours from the saddle which added a lot of time in the morning.
A guide leading another group helped us place protection for the Step Across, and we were on our own the rest of the climb. We used protection on all of the main pitches, as well as on the West-Leaning Chimney and BPITS. Felt relatively safe all the way up.
We just brought 3 cams, 2", 1', and 3/4". We had maybe 8 blockers, but we never used them.
Our route finding on the descent was pretty bad. We did Sargent's Rap and the Main 30m rap. We then got off course somehow and ended in an area that cliffs out, but there was an undocumented bailout rap station that looked like it was setup by the Rangers. So that was helpful.
danbknox - Sep 15, 2022 4:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2022
OSgreat one day with exum
Hotoven - Jul 27, 2020 8:17 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2020
Long day hikeClimbed with friend Jeremy. Did Owen Spalding route car to car in a day. Very icy but a perfect day to climb. Trip Report coming.
ToTheHeights - Jul 25, 2020 12:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2020
First trad lead7/24/20 w/Nicole Edwards. Beautiful day on the Grand. Very icy on the OS, which made for a spooky first lead experience, but super fun regardless.
Andy73c - Jul 7, 2020 4:24 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 1988
Grand TetonSummited Grand Teton via Owen Spaulding route at age 12
freedeep - Mar 25, 2020 8:05 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1986
A good technical climb practiceDay hike to Middle and South Tetons, then an overniter at upper saddle, then Wall Street and over the top. Good practice climb.
jeffrawn - Jan 12, 2020 9:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2017
Enjoyable Climb with JHMGFires out west made for very poor visibility. Stunning all the same.
merrill - Aug 22, 2019 6:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2019
upper exumMy friend Steve wanted to lead the Upper Exum to celebrate his 60th birthday. Thanks to those on the summit with us that helped me sing happy birthday to him.
cascadescrambler - Jul 29, 2019 10:26 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 1984
Good solid rockUpper Exum Ridge. First to the summit that day, a little before 8. Went down OS route
eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017
Led the Owen Spalding route in a day-tripNo camping, just a long hike through the night; fun climbing and amazing summit; with Coby
JLuthanen - Sep 12, 2018 11:55 am Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2018
Via Upper ExumCamped at Lower Saddle 9/8 ... started 5:30am, topped out at 5:30pm as a result of several unintended 'variations'. Added some 5.7 / 5.8 off width cracks and weird bouldering problems that resulted in beached whales and knee jams to get through. This mountain is gigantic, and the ease with which you can get off course should not be underestimated. The real fun of this create your own epic started on the descent ... both major rap stations off the Owens Spalding sent and were awesome (tied 60m to our 70m on the long overhanging lower rap station with another couple for lots of time savings). However, we lost light around 8pm and bobbled via headlamp down an unfamiliar route to both of us for the next 2.5hrs, involving two raps in the dark, one slip on an overhang near 'threading the needle' in reverse, which resulted in minor chest trauma / likely broken ribs. We got back to Lower Saddle camp by 10:45pm ... ultimately safe and sound, stuck it out in the wind one more night, and hiked out Monday. I think this can be doable in a long day with light equipment and knowing the route by heart. Weather was perfectly clear the entire time we were there, which is atypical. Several climbing parties got turned away by 'Thunder Snow' up high Saturday AM - everything was easy going beyond that. Stoked!
Garon Coriz - Sep 4, 2018 9:13 am Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2018
Finally SummitedAfter visiting the Tetons several times and having to settle for one of the other peaks or routes, I finally got to the summit via Upper Exum. Matt and I hiked to Petzoldt Caves and camped in bivy sacks. We had the place to ourselves! We woke up at 7:30 and headed up the mountain at 8:30 along with 4 others who started from the trailhead. The wind on the saddle was fierce and zapped our energy so we scrapped the option of doing the whole Exum. After getting through the Eye of the Needle and attaining the ridge with a great view of Wall Street, the wind died down some and the sun was out in force.
We roped up on Wall Street, which was a little breezy in the shade. We halved the rope to 30 meters and simul-climbed the whole thing in 3 long “pitches.” Melting snow made some of the easier moves off limits so some 5.7 moves were required, but still quite the moderate classic. The summit wasn’t too windy, the skies we clear, and no one else was there. Incredible place on top!
The descent was a little tricky in trailrunners on snow but boot tracks helped a ton. Raps were simple without hiccups. On the descent in the gully below the Upper Saddle, we managed to go too far left, which made for some interesting 4th class downclimbing on snow, rock, and ice. There was a cool section with a tunnel beneath some boulders that bypassed a steep section I thought we might have to rappel. I slipped in a chimney and hit my left shoulder and face that resulted in minor scrapes.
In the moranal camping field, some lovely folks from Colorado offered us a tasty beer and conversed with us for 10 minutes or so. We managed to get back to the caves around 7 pm to find it still without any other parties despite the several we saw at the moranal camp. A splendid day devoid of any rushing or major complications. Yes!
kteichert - Aug 6, 2018 8:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2018
Happy 2 year anniversaryMy 2 year wedding anniversary fell on a Saturday this year, and I think I've successfully annoyed my wife enough, that she begged me to go climb a peak for our anniversary, instead of having to spend time with me. So I picked a big one! This mountain is the most spectacular stash of rocks I have ever been on! What a beautiful chunk! I did a free solo of the OS route. Started at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead at 4am, and summitted in 4.5 hours. The California wildfires led to smoky views, but they were still stunning.
wilderleavitt - Jan 29, 2018 9:03 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2003
First Technical Rock Climbing SummitAmazing climb entirely in snow following Owens Spaulding route.
Walkoutnow - Jul 20, 2017 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2017
Upper ExumWhat a great, majestic mountain! We had a great and speedy ascent up the ridge, with clear skies all around. A bit windy and gusty, but dry and fun climbing. I would go up and do this route again tomorrow. Hope to be back for this mountain and its neighbors in the future.
geeman - Jul 16, 2017 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2017
It takes twoStill a lot of snow on the mountain. Traveling to the lower saddle required crampons and ice axe. We had to turned back the day before after reaching the black dyke above the lower saddle due to thunderstorms. Submitted via the Owen-Spalding just in time before snow showers hit us during the rappels on the way down.
Timeline: departed JHMG high camp at 3am, summit at 10am, back to the Lupine Meadows trailhead at 8pm with one hour break below JHMG camp.
rtgomez90 - May 4, 2017 10:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2016
Our biggest yetStayed at the moraines. Summit around 1 pm and back to the car around midnight
yadahzoemtn - Mar 18, 2017 5:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2016
Grand INDEED07/27/16: Best ever. Shared the summit with Broc, Jenny, Dan, Phil. Deb was our base camp manager.
Wheelbarrow - Jan 21, 2017 5:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2016
OS Route Fer DayzDid it again 7 days later! Can't wait to come back more experienced and conquer the Exum Ridge.
I started this summer in no shape to attempt a technical climb but after continually challenging myself week after week I gathered the experience and confidence to free solo this monster.