Cool scramble in spring. Left splitboards at ridge for a fun tour alternative to Stuart.
esugi - Oct 5, 2006 4:01 am Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2006
South Ridge Climb
Hiked in late pm and camped just before reaching Ingalls Lake. We left camp at 8:00am and climbed the South Ridge. Fun route but very short. We made 2 pitches going up and rapped off 3 times with single 60m rope from the summit down to the notch, and 2 more from the notch down to the bottom. We were back at camp at 11:15am!!
jtostenr - Oct 2, 2006 7:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2006
Route Climbed: South Ridge
We decided to climb the South Ridge in 1 pitch to speed things up. With a 60m rope, this required the belayer to break down the anchor and climb up 5-10 feet so that I could get on top and belay him up. Not a big deal, since it's only 3rd/4th class at that point. We did a double rope rap back down and a single rap into the gully. Afterwards, we scrambled up the South Peak.
Very enjoyable and casual climb. Soloed the first 2 "pitches" to the bottom of the face. Then fun crack climbing to the bolts and an easier pitch to top out. A double-60-meter-rope rappel barely got us to the ledge below the face with inches to spare. Then belayed downclimbing seemed the best way to finish the descent.
paclimberx - Aug 16, 2006 5:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006
A very nice climb. We took it fast and light simulclimbing in sneakers to the summit block. Beware of the greasy holds! We were surprised by them! Downsloping and slick. Hard in the approach shoes. A good relaxing day after mt. stuart.
Wow! Talk about stellar rock. Incredibly fun route to great views. A nice rest day after Stuart.
b. - Jul 18, 2006 3:30 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006
South Ridge
Great follow up to our climb of Stuarts North Ridge. A really fun climb. The crowd was easy to deal with due to the casual nature of the route.
Tom Fralich - Jun 6, 2006 4:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2006
See Below
East Ridge (II 5.7) -- June 5, 2006 -- Climbed with my brother during a one week visit to Seattle. There was A LOT of snow...consistent cover starting from about 5,000 ft...which made the approach fairly tiring. Also a bit confusing, since I'd never been up there before, so we ended up on the ridge to the right of Ingalls Pass a bit too soon. Once on the route, the climbing was really straightforward. A bit loose getting up to the notch on the east ridge but then generally solid from there to the summit. I don't think there was any 5.7 climbing on this route.
South Ridge (II 5.4) -- June 16, 2009 -- Considerably less snow this time around, but we still managed to take the wrong trail due to terrible directions in the guidebook. Got it right on the second try and made it to the summit in 3.5 hours from the car. The rock on this route is really interesting and the climbing is excellent. This is a far better route than the East Ridge. Done with Bill Ayers as a short day in the mountains before his flight home to NYC.
Snidely Whiplash - Feb 23, 2006 5:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 1984
Route Climbed: Southwest Face
A moderate (class 4) climb on a very fun peak. A great first rock climb for the novice.
Route Climbed: South Ridge Route Date Climbed: June 2004
First rock climb on that slick type of rock. Fun hiking into the climb. Weather was great, the view of Mt. Stuart was fascinating. Lake was still frozen over. Waterfalls and little rivers were beautiful. The actual route was challenging (for me, a beginner). Went up a couple pitches, took a snack break, and decide to go down. I'll go back there someday soon and complete that, I gurantee. :)
Route Climbed: South slab rte, North peak Date Climbed: October 3, 2004
Probably one of the best weekends to climb this rte. Bluebird sky's, moderate temps, larch has turned golden and only a party of 2 on the rte itself. JACKPOT!
Small rack with slings, couple medium cams, and red tricam seemed to fit well and was all that was needed. Single 60 meter rope.
Route Climbed: South Ridge and South Peak Date Climbed: September 1 2004
Decided to grab both peaks in the small weather window provided... had a whiteout on the summit of the south peak which was intense but a whole lot of fun... enjoyed the area alot... the Cascades are truly incredible and have made a believer out of me!
Route Climbed: East Ridge & South Ridge Date Climbed: July 14, 2004
Took a day off from work and climbed on a beautiful day with David Harris. We initially tried to find a route up the East peak but were turned around by too much loose rock. The East Ridge climb was easy but fun - we did it in two pitches (one long simulclimbed pitch and a short one to the summit). After rapping down we quickly climbed the South Ridge before heading back to the lake, picking up our packs and cruising back to Portland.
supermarmot - Jul 5, 2007 7:37 pm
south peaktook a jaunt up from ingalls pass.
littlefrantz - Jan 5, 2007 1:19 am
South peakCool scramble in spring. Left splitboards at ridge for a fun tour alternative to Stuart.
esugi - Oct 5, 2006 4:01 am Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2006
South Ridge ClimbHiked in late pm and camped just before reaching Ingalls Lake. We left camp at 8:00am and climbed the South Ridge. Fun route but very short. We made 2 pitches going up and rapped off 3 times with single 60m rope from the summit down to the notch, and 2 more from the notch down to the bottom. We were back at camp at 11:15am!!
jtostenr - Oct 2, 2006 7:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2006
Route Climbed: South RidgeWe decided to climb the South Ridge in 1 pitch to speed things up. With a 60m rope, this required the belayer to break down the anchor and climb up 5-10 feet so that I could get on top and belay him up. Not a big deal, since it's only 3rd/4th class at that point. We did a double rope rap back down and a single rap into the gully. Afterwards, we scrambled up the South Peak.
cluck - Sep 5, 2006 8:17 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2006
South RidgeVery enjoyable and casual climb. Soloed the first 2 "pitches" to the bottom of the face. Then fun crack climbing to the bolts and an easier pitch to top out. A double-60-meter-rope rappel barely got us to the ledge below the face with inches to spare. Then belayed downclimbing seemed the best way to finish the descent.
paclimberx - Aug 16, 2006 5:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006
South RidgeGreat hike and climb.
Seth Maciejowski - Jul 31, 2006 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2006
South ridgeA very nice climb. We took it fast and light simulclimbing in sneakers to the summit block. Beware of the greasy holds! We were surprised by them! Downsloping and slick. Hard in the approach shoes. A good relaxing day after mt. stuart.
gato - Jul 21, 2006 10:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006
South RidgeWow! Talk about stellar rock. Incredibly fun route to great views. A nice rest day after Stuart.
b. - Jul 18, 2006 3:30 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006
South RidgeGreat follow up to our climb of Stuarts North Ridge. A really fun climb. The crowd was easy to deal with due to the casual nature of the route.
Tom Fralich - Jun 6, 2006 4:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2006
See BelowEast Ridge (II 5.7) -- June 5, 2006 -- Climbed with my brother during a one week visit to Seattle. There was A LOT of snow...consistent cover starting from about 5,000 ft...which made the approach fairly tiring. Also a bit confusing, since I'd never been up there before, so we ended up on the ridge to the right of Ingalls Pass a bit too soon. Once on the route, the climbing was really straightforward. A bit loose getting up to the notch on the east ridge but then generally solid from there to the summit. I don't think there was any 5.7 climbing on this route.
South Ridge (II 5.4) -- June 16, 2009 -- Considerably less snow this time around, but we still managed to take the wrong trail due to terrible directions in the guidebook. Got it right on the second try and made it to the summit in 3.5 hours from the car. The rock on this route is really interesting and the climbing is excellent. This is a far better route than the East Ridge. Done with Bill Ayers as a short day in the mountains before his flight home to NYC.
Snidely Whiplash - Feb 23, 2006 5:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 1984
Route Climbed: Southwest FaceA moderate (class 4) climb on a very fun peak. A great first rock climb for the novice.
dicey - Sep 4, 2005 1:22 pm
Route Climbed: south ridge Date Climbed: August 2000fun
Dan Winter - Mar 25, 2005 2:30 am
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: 7/5/03Leading the crack pitch was interesting in my big clunky hiking boots. I was glad that the route just ate up pro!
SummitQueen - Nov 25, 2004 2:50 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Route Date Climbed: June 2004First rock climb on that slick type of rock. Fun hiking into the climb. Weather was great, the view of Mt. Stuart was fascinating. Lake was still frozen over. Waterfalls and little rivers were beautiful. The actual route was challenging (for me, a beginner). Went up a couple pitches, took a snack break, and decide to go down. I'll go back there someday soon and complete that, I gurantee. :)
leejams - Oct 4, 2004 5:24 pm
Route Climbed: South slab rte, North peak Date Climbed: October 3, 2004Probably one of the best weekends to climb this rte. Bluebird sky's, moderate temps, larch has turned golden and only a party of 2 on the rte itself. JACKPOT!
Small rack with slings, couple medium cams, and red tricam seemed to fit well and was all that was needed. Single 60 meter rope.
tlogan - Sep 3, 2004 9:18 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge and South Peak Date Climbed: September 1 2004Decided to grab both peaks in the small weather window provided... had a whiteout on the summit of the south peak which was intense but a whole lot of fun... enjoyed the area alot... the Cascades are truly incredible and have made a believer out of me!
Gail J - Aug 15, 2004 12:25 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 14, 2004A beautiful alpine area and an enjoyable day trip.
Johnhl94563 - Aug 7, 2004 3:58 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 14, 2004Definately a lot of work for a short easy climb, but a great experience.
jasonconnell - Aug 2, 2004 5:59 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 17th 2004Fun Climb - Great views of Stuart
Pictures Here
jtschanz - Jul 16, 2004 12:36 pm
Route Climbed: East Ridge & South Ridge Date Climbed: July 14, 2004Took a day off from work and climbed on a beautiful day with David Harris. We initially tried to find a route up the East peak but were turned around by too much loose rock. The East Ridge climb was easy but fun - we did it in two pitches (one long simulclimbed pitch and a short one to the summit). After rapping down we quickly climbed the South Ridge before heading back to the lake, picking up our packs and cruising back to Portland.