Ivan jumaring up from

Ivan jumaring up from "The...

Ivan jumaring up from "The Balcony" at 6200m. The drop below him is about 300m and in the background a part of a ridge of Gasherbrum V can be seen.
Corax
on Sep 19, 2005 6:13 pm
Image ID: 126977

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Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Sep 19, 2005 7:08 pm - Voted 10/10

Cool Pic

What is up with all of the fixed lines on a peak that is not climbed that often? Why the heck would you need to jumar a 45 degree snow slope? Just hike up the thing! I guess that is why Expedition Climbing doesn't appeal to me, it seems like the people organizing it asume you're a total novice and have no steep snow or iceclimbing experience at all.



Correct me if I'm wrong.

Corax

Corax - Sep 19, 2005 7:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Cool Pic

Thanks Martin.



The route is the same as the one leading to Gasherbrum II, that's why there are fixed ropes.

At some places the ridge is 40-45 degrees, at others 60-65 and you're extremely exposed on some parts. On top of that, the ridge is quite corniched, so I think fixed ropes is a good idea on some parts of this ridge.



On the other hand - I'm really bothered with the extreme overuse of fixed ropes on the high peaks. All over the place, and many times cocky, loud and patronizing expedition leaders screaming at you if you don't use them.

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