If you're climbing this with beginners, it makes sense to be prepared for a possible fall at the step around. If the second falls, they'll likely wind up hanging free, or at least unable to climb back up to where they fell. Knowing how to rig a quick haul system is a good idea, as is preparing the follower for what might happen. If they can prussik that would be good, too.
The Vogel and Gaines guidebook says pro is "thin to 2.5 inches," but Gaines' "Best Climbs" book says pro to 4 inches, which seemed a lot more accurate to me. We got heavy use out of two 3" cams and one 4".
I'd be interested in how other people protect the crux move of P1. The best I could find was to stick a 2" (?) cam behind the loose block, which was obviously kind of a Darwin-award thing to do. I was dreading the possible effects on the block if I actually took a fall on that cam.
Steve Larson - May 11, 2006 5:56 pm - Voted 10/10
Climbing with beginnersIf you're climbing this with beginners, it makes sense to be prepared for a possible fall at the step around. If the second falls, they'll likely wind up hanging free, or at least unable to climb back up to where they fell. Knowing how to rig a quick haul system is a good idea, as is preparing the follower for what might happen. If they can prussik that would be good, too.
bcrowell2 - Jun 16, 2015 8:17 pm - Voted 7/10
protectionThe Vogel and Gaines guidebook says pro is "thin to 2.5 inches," but Gaines' "Best Climbs" book says pro to 4 inches, which seemed a lot more accurate to me. We got heavy use out of two 3" cams and one 4".
I'd be interested in how other people protect the crux move of P1. The best I could find was to stick a 2" (?) cam behind the loose block, which was obviously kind of a Darwin-award thing to do. I was dreading the possible effects on the block if I actually took a fall on that cam.