Long trip around the Avic or Aü

August 05th, 2001
Even today we started from the Village of Voella or Raye Chevrères (1.307m) to return to the Avic in Champdepraz Valley or of the Lakes Vallon; this applies to me, but not for Emilio, Gianfranco, Nicola and Roberto, because for them four it is the first time. Returning up to the past and I think the other times I've climbed this mountain. A sense of rejection over me at the thought of having to face the long sloping mule track leading to Lake Gelato with its iron Mines and copper. No, this time I want to change course as I did in 1993 and from Praz d'Oursi Pasture leave the trail to the South to direct us through a path that is getting smaller in the West towards the Varotta Hill, that the last time we did not reach "cutting upward right" for the North-northeast Slope. A path that becomes increasingly a small path in West towards the Colle Varotta, that the last time we have not reached "cutting straight upwards" for the North Slope-northeast. Reached the Hill, attack the long North Ridge we walk carefully in an integral way until this goes to merge with the North-northeast Face. The Gianfranco Vicentini (the Dean) has made some "whim" on clay to overcome an exposed rocky pinnacle, but the General Roberto Stella immediately and harshly rebuked him and, having tied him, forced him to proceed. In silence. Oh, is a General of the "Alpini" (Alpine Troops), you not can joke! The usual final steps through some chimney of bluish rock and a little damp lead us to the Summit, where Nicola Colajanni (the Judge of the Supreme Court) unflinchingly sits quietly putting to read the "Unità", with General shocked and Emilio Bertona, as usually, eager to get down to fit. I (Apache Guide, so to speak as well baptized me the General) I watch in absolute silence. How do the Apaches. Being that Emilio "quivers", we must begin to decline. I would stay here until the evening and the Judge also, but in a democracy twos is useless: the General decides and so you go down, without anyone breath, because even the Apache Guide is silent, like all Indian Guides. The Gianfranco wants, when the start of the ridge has two or three easy steps but a little exposed, externalize some complaints; just a glance of the General puts to rest and does not dare to make more requests of "trade-union". Incidentally is the hard Law of Life: schoolchildren depend Professors, Professors from Deans and Deans from Generals. "Dura Lex sed Lex".


Descending from Avìc above Raye Chevrère Plateau by emilius

At the end of the enough easy and short Cresta West-southwest and at a narrow fork (2.920/30 meters), a steep gully of rocks with soil leads down to the side of the South-southeast Wall; it is not difficult and you have to be caution not only to pull himself alone the stones. Then gradually flexing in the South you reach the wide Plateau of Rayes Chevrères, where peep a swarm of small ponds.But when under the Col des Rayes Chevrères (2.703m) sees them "anticipate" falling down a gorge in order to gain time, the Guide Apache has a rebellion and begins to go upwards to the North Face of Mount Iverta. She wanted to shout from under Emilio "Wretch tonight I have an important meeting!" (the usual match on television of the A.C. Milan Football Club, which is powered fan). Apache continues its route, so then knows very well that quietly resume their.
At the appropriate time ...

"Monte Avic or Avì also Aü from Northeast or Oursì Vallon towards the Varotta Hill and North Ridge (right)" by Gabriele Corvini aka Corvus
5 di Agosto 2001
Anche oggi siamo partiti dal Villaggio di Voella (1.307m) per tornar all'Avìc nel Vallone di Champdepraz o dei Laghi; questo vale per me, ma non per Emilio, Gianfranco, Nicola e Roberto, perché per lor quattro trattasi della prima volta. Salendo penso al passato ed all'altre volte che ho salito questa montagna. Un senso di rigetto m'invade al pensiero di dover affrontare la lunga mulattiera inclinata che conduce al Lago Gelato con le sue Miniere di ferro e di rame. No, questa volta voglio cambiare rotta come ho fatto nel 1993 e dall'Alpe di Praz d'Oursì lasciam la mulattiera a Mezzogiorno per indirizzarci tramite un sentiero che diventa sempre più sentierucolo ad Occidente verso il Colle Varotta, che l'altra volta non abbiam raggiunto "tagliando sù dritto" per il Versante Nord-nordest. Raggiunto il Colle, attacchiam la lunga Cresta Nord che percorriamo minuziosamente in modo integrale fino a quando questa và a fondersi col versante Nord-nordest. Gianfranco (il Preside) ha fatto qualche "capriccetto" sulla cresta per scavalcare un esposto pinnacolo di roccia, ma il Generale Roberto l'ha subito aspramente redarguito e, dopo averlo legato, ha obbligato lui a procedere. In silenzio. Oh, é un Generale degli Alpini, mica si scherza! I soliti passaggi finali per camini di roccia bluastra ed un pò umida ci conducon sul Vertice, ove Nicola (il Giudice di Cassazione) senza far 'na piega si siede mettendosi a leggere tranquillamente l'"Unità", col Generale scandalizzato e l'Emilio, come al solito, impaziente di scendere per rientrare. Io (la Guida Apache, per modo di dir visto che così m'ha battezzato il Generale) assisto in assoluto silenzio. Come fan gli Apaches. Essendo che l'Emilio "freme", dobbiam iniziar andar giù. Io starei qua fin a sera ed il Giudice pure, ma in democrazia due a due non serve a nulla: decide il Generale e così si scende, senza che nessun fiati, anche perché la Guida é muta, come tutte le Guide Indiane. Il Gianfranco vorrebbe, quando all'inizio la cresta presenta due o tre facili passaggetti ma un pò esposti, esternar lamentele; basta 'no sguardo del Generale per metterlo a tacere e non s'azzarda più far richieste "sindacali". Daltronde é la dura Legge della Vita: gli scolari dipendono dai Professori, i Professori dai Presidi e Presidi dai Generali. "Dura Lex sed Lex".


Lake Gelato below Iverta, near Raye Chevrères Pass, by emilius

e presso una stretta forcellina (2.920/30 metri circa), un ripido canalino di roccette con blocchi in bilico e terriccio scivoloso conduce in basso a fianco della Parete Sud-sudest; non é difficile e bisogna star attenti esclusivamente a non tirarsi da soli addosso le pietre l'un con l'altro. Quindi gradualmente flettendo a Mezzogiorno si raggiunge il largo Plateau delle Rayes Chevrères, dove occhieggiano un nugolo di laghetti, residuo della fusione delle nevi invernali. Ma quando sotto il Colle des Rayes Chevrères li vede "anticipare taliando" la strada e scendendo giù per una gola onde guadagnar tempo nello scendere, la Guida Apache ha un moto di ribellione e incomincia ad andare sù per l'abbastanza ripida Faccia Settentrionale dell'Iverta. Ha voglia di gridar da sotto Emilio "Disgraziato stasera ho una riunione importante!" (la solita partita in televisione del A.C. Milan Football Club del quale é accesissimo tifoso). Ma l' Apache continua nella sua rotta, tanto poi sà bene che li riprenderà appena più al di sotto.
A momento opportuno ...


Monte Iverta Northern Face, near Raye Chevrères Pass, by Osw
August 21th, 1993
Even then we were a large group and no one, except myself, had never climbed Mount Avic, anywhere. But there's always a first time, and so it happened that the fresh morning when, starting from Voella in six including the very young Demis Freemasons, we head to Monte Aü. For the first time than previous ascents not go up to the Mines of Lake Gelato, but, come to Praz d'Oursì Pasture, we turn West towards the Colle Varotta (2.589m) but not reach the same. After spending the alp get the ruins of the Fiè Pastures (2.080m) and along small hairpin bends, the upper Pian de Fiè (or Fì). Crossing the torrent, at a fresh tiny spring, we turn to the left (Southwest) by entering in a small vallon using a few traces, which leads us to the base of the North-northeast Face of the mountain. Quiet and moderate snowfields lead us soon at the top of a field of boulders that comes out of the snow, while the slopes gradually increase. When these "dampen" against the final wall of about 150 meters, we begin to give the "assault" to her for rocks not difficult, but quite wet. I am in front with Danilo, the others follow suit. "Puffing" on some easy rock by narrows chimneys green-bluish very wet, we are quietly on the summit for the lunch hour. The day is beautiful and makes almost sorry to leave, but it is necessary due to the long descent, who, after having tied for safety Demis, are fast and soon we are at the Plateau des Rayes. A crossing to the right leads to the eponymous hill and around the corner, we reach the beautiful and isolated lake of the same name also called of the Iverta (2.751m), sited now in the Vallon opposite of Savoney, secondary that Fénis-Clavalité; not a leaf moves and only waters flaunt a slight chill wave. The climb on Northern Slope through large blocks that is easy and quickly reach the Summit (2.939m). Watching the Avìc in the foreground seems very far and it seems almost impossible that in such a short time we moved away and almost forgotten the same. Even back remember little or nothing; we see that there was not anything in particular and the cheerful company had mitigated the grueling and tiring always downhill to Voella.



"Group of the previous time by the N-NE Face ..." by Guido Borettaz

21 d'Agosto, 1993
Anche allora si era un gruppo numeroso e nessuno, tranne il sottoscritto, aveva mai salito il Monte Avìc, da nessuna parte. Ma c'é sempre una prima volta e così avvenne il quel fresco mattino quando, partendo da Voella in sei compreso il giovanissimo Demis Massoni, ci dirigiamo al Monte Aü. Per la prima volta rispetto alle precedenti ascensioni non salgo alle Miniere del Lago Gelato, ma, giunti all'Alpe Praz d'Oursì, svoltiamo ad Ovest verso il Colle Varotta (2.589 m), ma non lo raggiungiamo. Dopo aver passato l'alpe ed attraversato il torrente, presso una fresca sorgentella, giriamo verso sinistra (Sudovest) entrando tramite scarse tracce in un ripido valloncello, conducenteci alla base del Versante Nord-nordest della montagna. Tranquilli nevai ci portano presto in alto tra una selva di macigni fuoriuscenti dalla neve, mentre le pendenze progressivamente aumentano. Quando queste si "smorzano" contro la parete finale di circa 150 metri, incominciamo a darle l'"assalto" per rocce non difficili, ma alquanto bagnate. Io sono davanti col Danilo, gli altri seguono a ruota. "Sbuffando" per alcuni camini facili di roccia verde-bluastra molto bagnata, tranquillamente siamo sulla Sommità per l'ora di pranzo. La giornata é splendida e fà quasi dispiacere andar via, ma é necessario causa la lunga discesa, che, dopo avere legato per sicurezza Demis, é rapida e ben presto siamo al Plateau des Rayes Chevréres. Una traversata a destra ci conduce all'omonimo colle e, girato l'angolo, raggiungiamo lo splendido ed isolato lago dallo stesso nome od anche detto dell'Iverta (2.751 m), sito ormai nel Vallone opposto di Savoney, secondario a quello di Fénis-Clavalité; non si muove foglia e solo le acque ostentano un leggero brivido ondulatorio. La salita sul Versante Nord tramite grandi blocchi risulta facile e sicura ed in breve tempo raggiungiamo la Sommità (2.939 m). Guardando l'Avìc in primo piano sembra molto lontano e par quasi impossibile che in così breve tempo l'abbiamo allontanato e quasi dimenticato. Del ritorno ricordo poco o quasi nulla; si vede che non era accaduto niente di particolare, mentre la compagnia allegra aveva attenuato l'estenuante e sempre faticosa discesa fino a Voella.


"Last steps on North-northeatern Face from North ..." by Corvus

June 28th, 1987
Six years before, instead we went to look for minerals and crystals. Yes, because at these two "Old Wolfs", who are with me, of the Mount Avìc relatively interested, even if they have never gone before. In fact these two are only interested in minerals because are, sissssh, "Crystals Hunters" and rummage in every crack and raise all the stones they find. Spilling the mountains that they pass their forgiveness whenever at least almost one meter high. Only Attila with the Huns could do better or worse, depending on your point of view. A real Mania, incidentally, they say in France, "A chaque fou sa marotte" or to any crazy his mania. Has its mania. Who hunting butterflies, who collect postcards, those who collect stamps, who, who, who ... They collect minerals or, as I say, taking them around, stones. Good thing they were not "Headhunters", but in those days it was not even of Fashion. Already in the previous month of May with two excursions to Mount Barbeston and the Pic de Vòrea had "photographed the mood way to go" of these two, so that the Summit of the latter I found myself alone, while their wandering with my son Christian for walls looking perhaps "the Gold of Klondike", for which thing this time I had made cautiously, prior to the evolution of the situation. I did not have to wait long, the two began to rummage the Avìc from below upwards and from top to bottom. I continued on the edge of the ridge from Raye Chevrères Hill (2.703m) first exceeds the eponymous Summit (2.850m) and then, with a longer straight, goes against the Monte Avic. A vertical rocky jump of about twenty yards I blocked the road to reach the underlying fork 2.920/30 meters about, where he began West-southwest short Ridge, which soon leads to the Summit. Near this point we reunited and quietly photographing reached the Vertex on a beautiful sunny day. I wanted to go to Monte Iverta, but for these two the Iverta interests their even less of Avìc; so, after a quick descent but always analyzing all the stones they met, we go down to the Lake Gelato where their exploring the mines of iron and copper are certainly better gratification. And yet I that I lie on the snowfields at the banks of the lake to enjoy a wonderful, warm Sun ...


"On Top from Raye Chevrére by the W-SW Ridge" by Franco Lucianaz

28 Giugno, 1987
, che son con me, dell' Avìc gliene frega relativamente, anche se non l'han mai salito precedentemente. In realtà a questi due interessano solo i minerali perché: sissssh, son "Cacciatatori di Cristalli" e rovistano in ogni fessura ed alzano tutti i sassi che trovano. Rovesciano le montagne che quando passano loro perdono ogni volta almeno un metro di altezza. Solo Attila sapeva fare di meglio o di peggio, a seconda dei punti di vista. Una vera e propria Mania, daltronde, dicono in Francia, "A chaque fou sa marotte" cioé ad ogni matto la sua mania. Chi caccia farfalle, chi raccoglie cartoline, chi colleziona francobolli, chi, chi, chi ... Loro collezionano minerali o, come dico io prendendoli in giro, sassi. Meno male che non eran "Cacciatori di Teste", ma al tempo non era ancor di Moda. Già nel precedente mese di Maggio con due Escursioni al Barbeston ed al Pic de Vòrea avevo "fotografato il modo d'andar" di sti due, tanto che sulla Sommità di quest'ultimo m'ero ritrovato da solo, mentre loro con mio figlio Christian gironzolavano per le pareti cercando forse "l'Oro del Klondike", per la quale cosa questa volta m'ero fatto guardingo, in attesa degli sviluppi della situazione. Non dovetti attender molto, che i due incominciarono a rovistare l'Avìc da sotto in sù e dall'alto al basso. Io continuai sul filo di cresta che dal Colle Raye Chevrères dapprima supera l'omonima punta (2.850 m) e poi, con un tratto più rettilineo, si porta contro il Monte Avìc. Un salto verticale d'una ventina di metri mi sbarrava la strada per raggiungere la sottostante forcella 2.920/30 metri circa, dove inizia la Cresta Ovest-sudovest che in breve tempo conduce alla Sommità. Nei pressi di questa ci ricongiungemmo e tranquillamente fotografando raggiungemmo il Vertice in una splendida giornata di sole. Volevo andare al Monte Iverta, ma a questi due dell'Iverta se ne infischiano ancor più dell'Avìc; così, dopo una veloce discesa ma sempre analizzando tutti i sassi che incontravano, andiamo giù al Lago Gelato dove loro esplorando le miniere di ferro e di rame trovano una gratificazione certamente migliore. Eppur io che mi sdraio sui nevai presso le sponde del lago per gustarmi un magnifico, caldo Sole ...


"Climbing on terminal part of W-SW Ridge ..." by Osw

From the first maybe to the last time running away from the Past to the Future through the Present

"From Tête des Hommes Upper Champdepraz Basin toward Mont Iverta L'Invers del Lago Gelato, Rouvìc, Avìc & Barbeston (right)" by Emilio Bertona aka emilius

September 04th, 1983
But which was the first time? It took 10 years, ever since I stopped traveling by train, to go to Monte Avic. The summer began to wane and the days gradually become shorter. The idea, if I remember correctly, is to be attributed to my Friend Marco Cossard, told "Crevassino" (+ Juanuary 16th, 2013) because in that year, going up to Mont Blanc de Tacul had slipped into the crevasse that bisects the Northern Face, having wrong to put the ax to overcome the "mauvais pas", that is from the bottom to the top and not vice versa. With us my son Christian, 10 years-old. I seem to remember that the day was not much good because, with many mists that wandered around the mountains, but those times, taken from the sacred fury of youth, did not look too closely: you always started without checking of any conditions of the time and that's it. With any type of time. The task of searching the route was left to him, great Surveyor and expert reading of Maps, which did not exist at the time if non the tablets of the IGM Scale 1:25.000, there were no "Guides C.A.I. Emilius Rosa dei Banchi Parco del M.Avic" (2005) and even the "Diary Mountaineering Ascents in Aosta Valley 1921-1933" by Amilcare Crétier (1993). But let's do the good that Marco certainly not wrong, although it was the first time we visited this area. You had to go a "little nose" and so we did. Good times for real, total and genuine Adventure!. Not there were problems, the young man followed him in silence and quietly reached Lake Gelato, past the Mines (there had to be careful, because he wanted to get a crack at the pit of letters filled with ice, because he wanted to go exploring. With good manners" him back to reason), traversed the Plateau of Raye Chevrères and the South Slope-Sidest and the crest, or Via Normle, safely reached the Vertex of the Avìc. The pause was brief because "Crevassino" had something else in mind. Honestly had spoken, but not knowing the area the idea of what he wanted to do this "mountain camel" was unclear, if not vague. I know he wanted to get to the Grand Lake under the Glacier and up to it all right there because I had been in 1975 to climb alone the North Edge of the same. But coming from Champorcher through Colle del Lago Bianco. The rest was all entrusted to the personal imagination. As we climbed, we descended so quickly. The Plateau of Rayes and this in crossing the hill, under the Iverta.


"Lake Gelato: a lake more azure of the Sky ..." by Osw

Dubbed left the namesake lake, arriving on the Summit was a breeze: front opened, majestic, the two Northern Faces of Mont Glacier which, as mentioned, I knew. But to get up there? Hmmm, I did not like the story too because it seemed to have to cross the Sahara with a series of humps who remembered the dunes of a desert. Uhhmbahhh, hopefully good! We descend from Iverta (2.939m) easily through the South Slope and, passing over to a tiny pond, we reach the Tip Medzove (2.847m), which did not yet this name and we called Punta della Betassa; because a small saddle of 2.800 meters about, at the end of the West Ridge of Mont Belplà or Bel-Plat (2.828/9m; Good Flat), leads to a plateau said of the Betassa where, after another pond, begins to go down a small path (from the saddle now exists a trace, but in those days it was a steep grassy slope of the "Ollina" amongst various rocky bands). We're going to climb even this (if you can think of "Crevassino" not collected!). Going for the easy but jagged ridge in round trip from the saddle. Discarding right Lakes of Leità and the Pass of Mezove (2.614m), below Mont Glacier, you arrive at Grand Lake (2.495m; not there was still the Refuge Letey of the Forest Service). But while we were attracted by the charm, a Little Devil we worked quietly behind his back: the time, uploading the evaporation of lakes, was darkening and predicted an impending storm. Running down the Alp Pisonet, to the Lakes Cornuto (Horned), Nero (Black) and Bianco (White), where now there is the Barbustel Shelter. But then this was the most wild and isolated place in the world. And now? "Crevassino" says "It goes to the North!" What a discovery, if we want to go home ... Meanwhile over us sky rumbles and dark clouds are lowered more and more doing to us increase the pace. Soon it will be dark and we do not even light. The sky sets earlier above the Avìc and then down towards the Iverta and over the Invers of Lake Gelato and you not see longer the point of reference of the Bec l' Espic, yonder above the Lake of the Serva, where we have to get. A match lost by the start up, it becomes a war when the lightning begin to dart over our heads, sending us into total confusion so that, arriving at the junction with the Alp Cousse (2.051m) and seeing the little path that dates back to the Alp Bayet (2.071m), instead of following him go down on the right. He says the ragion why we should not go up but down. Incidentally, not are signals exist in the dark and if exist we do not see; and also the Map in the backpack of "Crevassino" is being withdrawn, being total darkness and having no light. Instead we make a big mistake: we end up in an area of large, polished and levigate blocks alternating with steep rocky banks scroll on which we feel the rivulets of water in the middle to high branches and dense rhododendron. Luckily the vipers will already go to sleep, or at least we hope. With a crossing instinctive and infinite left, climbing a steep rocky rib, we reach the "right path" and soon we are at the Lake of the Serva. From here to Voella everything is easier, despite stumbling occasionally. When we come home now is very late and my wife is anxiously awaiting "But where harbors the child with this black cape?". "Crevassino", maleficent, does not escape the occasion, and this nickname of "Black Pall" her bring back for at least two decades. So learn to mingle in "men affairs". This was my first Monte Avic and so at least I remember ...


"From Delà and Glacier (left) the entire watershed Champdepraz/Savoney-Ponton Walloons towards Iverta, Avìc, Rouvìc & Barbeston" by Emilio Bertona aka emilius

4 di Settembre, 1983