Looking up the final pitch....

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Looking up the final pitch....

Looking up the final pitch....

Looking up the final pitch. used #3 camelot in the crack above. 7/97
Bill Ott
on May 18, 2003 8:46 am
Lat/Lon: 37.75600°N / 119.593°W
Image ID: 20629

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desainme

desainme - Jul 27, 2003 3:42 pm - Voted 10/10

Rather blank

bolts lead up to the big friend placement?

Bill Ott

Bill Ott - Jul 27, 2003 5:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Rather blank

Yes, there are four bolts shown, leading to the overhanging crack. The picture was taken while hanging from a bolt. These shots were scanned from some old 35mm, sorry about the quality.

rpc

rpc - Apr 14, 2004 4:49 pm - Voted 10/10

excellent

these are the kinds of photos I look for esp. when planning a climb that pushes my ability!!

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Apr 14, 2004 5:34 pm - Hasn't voted

Not too hard

The last pitch is exciting but not too hard if climbed the original 5.5 C1 way. Of course if you plan on freeing it, I can see how that would push your abilities!

rpc

rpc - Apr 14, 2004 6:39 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Not too hard

Hey Craig,



Yeah, it'll be a while before I have any thoughts of freeing anything remotely as hard (like say 3 or 4 lifetimes into the future).



I would very much like to give this a shot the "original way" - the 5.5 C2- way you mention on the description page. So what are the aid portions that make it a bit harder than C1? Can you get away with just a "regular" free climbing rack (supplemented with repetitive pieces of course) + a cheat stick? Or is there any mandatory "hook moves" etc? Is it the couple of crappy small cam placements (2 lobes only engaged - that rokdansir mentioned somewhere) that give it the C2- rating?



Sorry for the stupid questions, but my aid experience is limited to some C1 type stuff mostly at Smith (....now comes the laughter from those who know Smith and aid esp. easy aid don't mix :).



Many thanks for any/all info.

radek

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Apr 15, 2004 10:59 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Not too hard

I think the C2 - rating comes from some awkward moves maybe. A big glorified free rack will get you up this - we didn't have or use a cheater stick ourselves. It's a fun climb - go do it!

rpc

rpc - Apr 15, 2004 11:33 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Not too hard

Thanks Craig!



Can't get the thought of climbing it out of my head now - now just need to find an extended wknd.

Regards,

Radek

Viewing: 1-7 of 7