It's worth mentioning that this is not a sport climb, even though it is protected with bolts. The route was established "back in the day" by trad climbers in traditional style - bolting from stances without aid on lead. This explains the widely spaced bolts, and of course the convenience anchor at the top is recent addition.
Yes, I was careful not to call it a sport climb, only a bolted climb. Thankfully almost all the bolts have been replaced, though when I climbed it there was an old Leeper spinner about halfway up. Don't know if it's still there or not....
We did this route yesterday. I couldn't believe it. A Sunday afternoon, with the most perfect Josh weather possible and there was not another climber around. There were about 5 cars in the real Hidden Valley Lot.
All the bolts look great.
An unintended consequence of the nice new anchor at the top: Puss n Boots seems to be getting a lot of TR traffic, and it's delicate little holds are getting worn down...
ksolem - Jan 25, 2006 12:43 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentIt's worth mentioning that this is not a sport climb, even though it is protected with bolts. The route was established "back in the day" by trad climbers in traditional style - bolting from stances without aid on lead. This explains the widely spaced bolts, and of course the convenience anchor at the top is recent addition.
darinchadwick - Jan 27, 2006 1:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentYes, I was careful not to call it a sport climb, only a bolted climb. Thankfully almost all the bolts have been replaced, though when I climbed it there was an old Leeper spinner about halfway up. Don't know if it's still there or not....
ksolem - Jan 30, 2006 11:03 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentWe did this route yesterday. I couldn't believe it. A Sunday afternoon, with the most perfect Josh weather possible and there was not another climber around. There were about 5 cars in the real Hidden Valley Lot.
All the bolts look great.
An unintended consequence of the nice new anchor at the top: Puss n Boots seems to be getting a lot of TR traffic, and it's delicate little holds are getting worn down...