Route Climbed: Southeast Slope from Horse Creek Pass Date Climbed: August 8, 2004
A pretty tough day hike filled with many obstacles. From the discriptions I read it looked pretty simple and short so my hiking buddy, Greg Paul, and I spent the evening before boozing it up in Bridgeport. Not a great idea; The use trail is hard to follow, the talus route up the pass is pretty tiring, the summit slope has plenty of scree and there is a bit of exposure towards the top. It was worth it but we agreed that we won't be coming back for seconds... or at least not with a hangover.
Route Climbed: North Arête Date Climbed: 8 August, 2004
Climbed with Gordon(ye) & Mark (Pellucid Wombat). This route intimidated me from our campsite, as steep and bad-ass as it looked. While we never got off route, the route finding I found to be interesting. The exposure on much of the route was intense, the cracks were steep, and the crux dihedral was clean and great! Divying up each pitch into a half-pitch (to use best the 1 rope we had) made things interesting. The last real (dihedral/squeeze chimney) pitch we did as a full one. Great climb with good friends.
Route Climbed: North Arete - descended East Couloir Date Climbed: August 8, 2004
Climbed this route with Dirk (Diggler) and Gordon as a finale to my mountaineering extravaganza in the Sierra. After 7 days on the Sierra Challenge w/ Bob Burd, this was an excellent way to finish up the trip!
Route Climbed: North arete Date Climbed: August 8, 2004
Climbed with Dirk Summers (Digger) and Mark Thomas (PellucidWombat). My first ever multi-pitch climb. We camped at beautiful Matterhorn Lake, and from there ascended slabs left of the drainage until the top of the moraine of Matterhorn Glacier. Crossing the glacier was easy without using crampons, as the steeper parts could be bypassed by climbing debris piles all the way up to East Couloir. The couloir was snow-free, and we found the start of the route a little ways up the couloir above a big left-facing open-book according to JD's helpful tips. Beautiful climbing and great company!
This mountain was the goal of my first backpacking trip back in 2000. We failed to summit. Then I went back the next year in June and failed to summit again. Then I went back that same summer in August, and finally...I summit. This is a beautiful peak and worth the hike. Now it seems straightforward, but when I first started climbing peaks it was tough.
Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: August 2003
This is a very fun climb. I especially liked the small hanging meadows in the area below the glacier. These would make for a very relaxing campsite on a two day climb. There was no snow in the couloir at this time of year, but still a great outing.
Route Climbed: East Couloir - East Ridge variation Date Climbed: October 25, 2003
Interesting late season climb. After crossing the rock-hard Matterhorn glacier (which included jumping over crevasses), Etsuko and I slogged our way up the couloir to the saddle on the East ridge. Couloir was snow free, very loose and unpleasant. From the saddle, we stayed true to the East ridge for some fun Class 4 climbing on perfect granite. This ~200' rock section made our trip worth while. Views from the top and the weather could not have been better!
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: Sept 6, 2003
Started from Twin Lakes, took the Cleaver Notch route from Horse Creek up to Blacksmith Peak, traversed behind the Sawtooth Ridge to the Doodad, then climbed the west face of Matterhorn and descended the East Couloir route to Horse Creek.
Route Climbed: Horse Creek to East Couloir Date Climbed: July 3, 2003
My first ascent of this nice peak. Climbed with bearbnz after work on a cloudless, breezy evening. Drove down from Reno and left Twin Lakes around 1740, summited at 2050. Descent took about the same amount of time due to the lack of moonlight. The north arete was tempting --- I had to practically pull Barry off of it with the accompanying reassurance: "we'll have more time next time"!
2 day ascent from Twin Lakes, camped below pass. snow above 8500' in horse creek canyon - great for a fast moving over what would be blocky talus - never icy (not even early morning). Beautiful summit conditions, sun and not a cloud around.
Missed the right turn out of the East Couloir to the North Arete so ended up in what I think is the Maze area to the right, higher up the Coulior. Maybe 5.4-5.5. Enjoyable day hike.
Route Climbed: East Couloir via Twin Lakes Date Climbed: 10/27/02
Beautiful, small summit. Difficult time acceding due to 4-6 inches of new snow over the talus. One step forward, two steps back. Glacier was clear and blue ice, nasty slips coming and going.
Route Climbed: East Couloir to the East Ridge from Twin Lakes Date Climbed: Summer 1995
Dayhiked the East Couloir alone from Twin Lakes in about 7 hours round trip. Saw very few tourists, none above the glacier.
July 3, 2003. Left Twin Lakes at 5:40pm, arrived on the summit at 8:50 via the East Couloir and East Ridge. Made most of the descent in the dark, took almost as long as the ascent with the darkness. Climbed with ScottyS.
September 6, 2003. Climbed Blacksmith Peak, went over to the Doodad (not via traverse), and then on to Matterhorn Peak with ScottyS. Long but satisfying day.
July 30, 2005. East Couloir with my next-door neighbor. He has lived in Bridgeport for 24 years, looking up at that peak and never venturing up there. Needed to correct that situation.
June 25, 2006. North Arete with Misha Logvinov. Ctc in a day, but a long day. Returned the stolen summit register to the top, probably should have picked a hiking route, but in retrospect, the North Arete was kinda fun.
March 9, 2008. Skinned up from Twin Lakes to the East Couloir, and cramponed to the top of the couloir. Scrambled up to the top in ski boots, and then skied the East Couloir and the rest of the route back to the car.
bennovak - Aug 13, 2004 2:36 am
Route Climbed: Southeast Slope from Horse Creek Pass Date Climbed: August 8, 2004A pretty tough day hike filled with many obstacles. From the discriptions I read it looked pretty simple and short so my hiking buddy, Greg Paul, and I spent the evening before boozing it up in Bridgeport. Not a great idea; The use trail is hard to follow, the talus route up the pass is pretty tiring, the summit slope has plenty of scree and there is a bit of exposure towards the top. It was worth it but we agreed that we won't be coming back for seconds... or at least not with a hangover.
Diggler - Aug 12, 2004 9:52 pm
Route Climbed: North Arête Date Climbed: 8 August, 2004Climbed with Gordon(ye) & Mark (Pellucid Wombat). This route intimidated me from our campsite, as steep and bad-ass as it looked. While we never got off route, the route finding I found to be interesting. The exposure on much of the route was intense, the cracks were steep, and the crux dihedral was clean and great! Divying up each pitch into a half-pitch (to use best the 1 rope we had) made things interesting. The last real (dihedral/squeeze chimney) pitch we did as a full one. Great climb with good friends.
PellucidWombat - Aug 10, 2004 4:41 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete - descended East Couloir Date Climbed: August 8, 2004Climbed this route with Dirk (Diggler) and Gordon as a finale to my mountaineering extravaganza in the Sierra. After 7 days on the Sierra Challenge w/ Bob Burd, this was an excellent way to finish up the trip!
gordonye - Aug 10, 2004 4:36 pm
Route Climbed: North arete Date Climbed: August 8, 2004Climbed with Dirk Summers (Digger) and Mark Thomas (PellucidWombat). My first ever multi-pitch climb. We camped at beautiful Matterhorn Lake, and from there ascended slabs left of the drainage until the top of the moraine of Matterhorn Glacier. Crossing the glacier was easy without using crampons, as the steeper parts could be bypassed by climbing debris piles all the way up to East Couloir. The couloir was snow-free, and we found the start of the route a little ways up the couloir above a big left-facing open-book according to JD's helpful tips. Beautiful climbing and great company!
Shaase - Jun 22, 2004 4:03 pm
Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: October 2003Great day topping out with perfect alpen glow twilight after a late start.
RSN473 - Mar 11, 2004 10:40 am
Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: October 1999Climbed south east ridge - avoided the sandy SE Slope by staying on or close to the ridge (climbers right)
birdhead - Feb 4, 2004 4:42 pm
Route Climbed: SE Slope Date Climbed: August 2001This mountain was the goal of my first backpacking trip back in 2000. We failed to summit. Then I went back the next year in June and failed to summit again. Then I went back that same summer in August, and finally...I summit. This is a beautiful peak and worth the hike. Now it seems straightforward, but when I first started climbing peaks it was tough.
June 22nd, 2012 - Day hiked from Twin Lakes.
July 11th, 2015 - Day hiked from Twin Lakes.
Sam Mills - Jan 29, 2004 5:34 pm
Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: August 2003This is a very fun climb. I especially liked the small hanging meadows in the area below the glacier. These would make for a very relaxing campsite on a two day climb. There was no snow in the couloir at this time of year, but still a great outing.
mtnfoto - Jan 22, 2004 3:12 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete with 5.9 start Date Climbed: August 1994Did this fine route as a day hike with Bruce Pottenger. We did the 5.9 variation right from the toe of the arete.
danbknox - Nov 30, 2003 3:57 am
Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: August 23 '03With Joe Hansen during search for Fred Classen, Still missing
Misha - Oct 27, 2003 10:13 am
Route Climbed: East Couloir - East Ridge variation Date Climbed: October 25, 2003Interesting late season climb. After crossing the rock-hard Matterhorn glacier (which included jumping over crevasses), Etsuko and I slogged our way up the couloir to the saddle on the East ridge. Couloir was snow free, very loose and unpleasant. From the saddle, we stayed true to the East ridge for some fun Class 4 climbing on perfect granite. This ~200' rock section made our trip worth while. Views from the top and the weather could not have been better!
Scott Pierce - Oct 27, 2003 12:04 am
Route Climbed: SE Slope from Horse Creek Pass Date Climbed: September, 1996Descended via East Couloir
ScottyS - Sep 20, 2003 8:12 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: Sept 6, 2003Started from Twin Lakes, took the Cleaver Notch route from Horse Creek up to Blacksmith Peak, traversed behind the Sawtooth Ridge to the Doodad, then climbed the west face of Matterhorn and descended the East Couloir route to Horse Creek.
ScottyS - Jul 7, 2003 1:38 pm
Route Climbed: Horse Creek to East Couloir Date Climbed: July 3, 2003My first ascent of this nice peak. Climbed with bearbnz after work on a cloudless, breezy evening. Drove down from Reno and left Twin Lakes around 1740, summited at 2050. Descent took about the same amount of time due to the lack of moonlight. The north arete was tempting --- I had to practically pull Barry off of it with the accompanying reassurance: "we'll have more time next time"!
Felsberg - Jun 10, 2003 11:56 am
Route Climbed: SE Slope Date Climbed: June 7,82 day ascent from Twin Lakes, camped below pass. snow above 8500' in horse creek canyon - great for a fast moving over what would be blocky talus - never icy (not even early morning). Beautiful summit conditions, sun and not a cloud around.
PICS
dharmadog - Apr 18, 2003 8:35 pm
Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: October 15, 2001At last, after three tries. 5200 vertical with great views. Shrinking glacier will be gone in 10 years!!!
Bob Burd - Jan 24, 2003 4:21 pm
Route Climbed: SE Slope (ascent), East Couloir (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2002Day 1 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. After climbing Whorl Mtn with four others, I tagged this one on the way back. Trip Report.
jeffn - Nov 5, 2002 8:54 pm
Route Climbed: Maze? Date Climbed: July 2002Missed the right turn out of the East Couloir to the North Arete so ended up in what I think is the Maze area to the right, higher up the Coulior. Maybe 5.4-5.5. Enjoyable day hike.
thenunz - Oct 28, 2002 7:49 am
Route Climbed: East Couloir via Twin Lakes Date Climbed: 10/27/02Beautiful, small summit. Difficult time acceding due to 4-6 inches of new snow over the talus. One step forward, two steps back. Glacier was clear and blue ice, nasty slips coming and going.
bearbnz - Sep 27, 2002 5:21 pm
Route Climbed: East Couloir to the East Ridge from Twin Lakes Date Climbed: Summer 1995Dayhiked the East Couloir alone from Twin Lakes in about 7 hours round trip. Saw very few tourists, none above the glacier.
July 3, 2003. Left Twin Lakes at 5:40pm, arrived on the summit at 8:50 via the East Couloir and East Ridge. Made most of the descent in the dark, took almost as long as the ascent with the darkness. Climbed with ScottyS.
September 6, 2003. Climbed Blacksmith Peak, went over to the Doodad (not via traverse), and then on to Matterhorn Peak with ScottyS. Long but satisfying day.
July 30, 2005. East Couloir with my next-door neighbor. He has lived in Bridgeport for 24 years, looking up at that peak and never venturing up there. Needed to correct that situation.
June 25, 2006. North Arete with Misha Logvinov. Ctc in a day, but a long day. Returned the stolen summit register to the top, probably should have picked a hiking route, but in retrospect, the North Arete was kinda fun.
March 9, 2008. Skinned up from Twin Lakes to the East Couloir, and cramponed to the top of the couloir. Scrambled up to the top in ski boots, and then skied the East Couloir and the rest of the route back to the car.