Route Climbed: Traverse from Disappointment Peak / NE Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005
The traverse from Disappointment was much easier than I'd expected, and the NE Face was straightforward as well (although much looser than I'd expected given the popularity of the route). Snow almost the whole way down to Finger Lake meant we were treated to a luxurious and pretty expedient return, 2hr45 back to the car from the summit.
The traverse from Disappointment took a couple of hours, and involved several ups and downs via the various chutes and aretes that separate the two peaks, but as I recall, only a couple of places were class 4.
Route Climbed: NE Chute via Class 4 chimney Date Climbed: 07/30/05
Made good time on the approach. There is a nice use trail from Brainard Lake up to Finger Lake that we found by accident. From there the moraine was mostly snow free with a few low angle patches. A short section of snow still covers the entrance to Secors Chute and can be done without an axe. The chimney was fun, solid class 4 on a beautiful summit day. Just over 12 hours car to summit and back.
Route Climbed: NE Face via Secor's chute Date Climbed: July 23 2005
A last-minute decision to head up to the Sierras to get 14er #6. Lots of fun, easy and sustained class 3 climbing with some loose rock thrown in too. The summit block was great, significant exposure but an awesome view of the palisades. No snow until the MP/NCP glaciers, but the top of the morraine was definitely covered more than what appears to be normal for this time of year. No crampons needed to get to the ledge leading into Secor's chute, but the last 30 feet there would have been really, really rough without an ax. Mosquitoes were in FULL FORCE from Willow Lake all the way up until the glaciers. Fortunately there was enough hail on the way back to keep them away for an hour or two. 17 hours from trailhead and back at a relaxed pace with quite a few breaks.
My first attempt and summit on a 14'er. Several other groups were going up at the same time, which ment, "ROCK!" being yelled from time to time, but a good climb overall.
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 2nd, 2005
Beautiful climb and very warm. Still plenty of snow on the approach. The summit climb had patchy spots of snow, but there was plenty of room to get around them. My 1st 14.
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: August 8, 2004
Climbed with Andre and Robert under sunny Sierra skies. Made a rte error as we topped out at a U notch which was not the summit. As we had left Robert at the top of the glacier we did not attempt to reach the true summit.
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: June 30, 1981
Climbed this route with John Fischer, Allan Bard, and two clients as part of a Palisade School of Mountaineering custom guided tour of the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. I was the sherpa. In return for carrying the beer and other goodies, I was allowed to tag along on the climb. The weather was overcast, and turned into heavy snow just as we reached the summit. Our view from the top was limited to a few hundred feet. Too bad, this is such an awesome place. The storm dropped over a foot of snow. The next morning dawned clear and warm. Watched in awe as dozens of wet snow avalanches swept the faces of this and the surrounding peaks. Unforgettable.
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: June 27, 2004
This was a great climb! The red stained rock is crumbly, so be careful and check your holds. The rest of the rock is great. Luckily we were the only ones on the mountain otherwise rockfall could have been a problem. I would advise helmets.
Route Climbed: NE Face (Up Left Couloir) Date Climbed: Late May 2004
Did the route as part of a ski tour. We crossed South Fork Pass from the west the day before and bivied in some rocks near the base of the glacier.
We had a large group, so managing the risk of rockfall while climbing was the biggest challenge.
Entered the couloir via a short ramp coming up from the glacier on the NE side--there are some belay slings there, so it sees some traffic. Went up the left fork of the couloir.
A few hours for a fast group bivied near the glacier--took us longer but bivy to bivy it took only 8 hours, with plenty of time on the summit ridge for pics.
Recommended for small groups with good class 3 skills only.
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 2003
I climbed this route with SummitPost members Misha, Etsuko, Michael G. and Andrew. A fantastic climb on a fantastic peak. Michael and myself went on tho climb Norman Clyde Peak (Mid Pals neighbor) the same day. Tent to tent, 12 hours.
Guilty - Aug 29, 2005 4:14 pm
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 07-19-99Saw many rocks rolling down the face. Very exciting.
BranchWhitney - Aug 26, 2005 1:00 am
Route Climbed: NE face Date Climbed: 8/22/2005Great climb and great weather. Ice ax and crampons came in handy.
Matthew Holliman - Aug 17, 2005 1:57 pm
Route Climbed: Traverse from Disappointment Peak / NE Face (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005The traverse from Disappointment was much easier than I'd expected, and the NE Face was straightforward as well (although much looser than I'd expected given the popularity of the route). Snow almost the whole way down to Finger Lake meant we were treated to a luxurious and pretty expedient return, 2hr45 back to the car from the summit.
The traverse from Disappointment took a couple of hours, and involved several ups and downs via the various chutes and aretes that separate the two peaks, but as I recall, only a couple of places were class 4.
thebeave7 - Aug 1, 2005 3:21 am
Route Climbed: NE Chute via Class 4 chimney Date Climbed: 07/30/05Made good time on the approach. There is a nice use trail from Brainard Lake up to Finger Lake that we found by accident. From there the moraine was mostly snow free with a few low angle patches. A short section of snow still covers the entrance to Secors Chute and can be done without an axe. The chimney was fun, solid class 4 on a beautiful summit day. Just over 12 hours car to summit and back.
Eric
orandall - Jul 25, 2005 11:12 am
Route Climbed: NE Face via Secor's chute Date Climbed: July 23 2005A last-minute decision to head up to the Sierras to get 14er #6. Lots of fun, easy and sustained class 3 climbing with some loose rock thrown in too. The summit block was great, significant exposure but an awesome view of the palisades. No snow until the MP/NCP glaciers, but the top of the morraine was definitely covered more than what appears to be normal for this time of year. No crampons needed to get to the ledge leading into Secor's chute, but the last 30 feet there would have been really, really rough without an ax. Mosquitoes were in FULL FORCE from Willow Lake all the way up until the glaciers. Fortunately there was enough hail on the way back to keep them away for an hour or two. 17 hours from trailhead and back at a relaxed pace with quite a few breaks.
Brian Kalet - Jul 18, 2005 12:35 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 17, 2005Approached Secor's Chute without crampons; tricky, but doable.
Cody - Jul 11, 2005 2:56 pm
Route Climbed: NE face Date Climbed: August 2004My first attempt and summit on a 14'er. Several other groups were going up at the same time, which ment, "ROCK!" being yelled from time to time, but a good climb overall.
jefflach - Jul 8, 2005 6:44 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: July 2nd, 2005Beautiful climb and very warm. Still plenty of snow on the approach. The summit climb had patchy spots of snow, but there was plenty of room to get around them. My 1st 14.
soslaw - Apr 18, 2005 2:22 pm
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: August 8, 2004Climbed with Andre and Robert under sunny Sierra skies. Made a rte error as we topped out at a U notch which was not the summit. As we had left Robert at the top of the glacier we did not attempt to reach the true summit.
RSN473 - Dec 22, 2004 10:53 am
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: 9-14-2000Climbed solo after my partner started leaking oil just below the glacier. Excellent climb!
Steve Larson - Nov 5, 2004 11:31 pm
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: June 30, 1981Climbed this route with John Fischer, Allan Bard, and two clients as part of a Palisade School of Mountaineering custom guided tour of the South Fork of Big Pine Creek. I was the sherpa. In return for carrying the beer and other goodies, I was allowed to tag along on the climb. The weather was overcast, and turned into heavy snow just as we reached the summit. Our view from the top was limited to a few hundred feet. Too bad, this is such an awesome place. The storm dropped over a foot of snow. The next morning dawned clear and warm. Watched in awe as dozens of wet snow avalanches swept the faces of this and the surrounding peaks. Unforgettable.
ghoulwe2 - Sep 27, 2004 7:32 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 28, 2004Three members of the Ghoulwe Mountaineering Club: Dave Johnson, Charlie Downs & John Wettstein, summited Middle Palisade via the NE Face at 9:00 AM.
Gail J - Aug 15, 2004 1:08 pm
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Sept. 14,1997My first fourteener. I made it. A great day.
cp0915 - Jul 11, 2004 10:01 am
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: July 9, 2004Fantastic. Though a near-epic.
Fred Bagni - Jul 10, 2004 6:39 pm
Route Climbed: North East Date Climbed: June 2003Beautiful place. Carry plenty of mosquito repellant. One of my best trips. Best class 3 climb.
kelseymkrause - Jun 28, 2004 4:23 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: June 27, 2004This was a great climb! The red stained rock is crumbly, so be careful and check your holds. The rest of the rock is great. Luckily we were the only ones on the mountain otherwise rockfall could have been a problem. I would advise helmets.
Scott Pierce - Jun 19, 2004 3:32 pm
Route Climbed: NE Face (Up Left Couloir) Date Climbed: Late May 2004Did the route as part of a ski tour. We crossed South Fork Pass from the west the day before and bivied in some rocks near the base of the glacier.
We had a large group, so managing the risk of rockfall while climbing was the biggest challenge.
Entered the couloir via a short ramp coming up from the glacier on the NE side--there are some belay slings there, so it sees some traffic. Went up the left fork of the couloir.
A few hours for a fast group bivied near the glacier--took us longer but bivy to bivy it took only 8 hours, with plenty of time on the summit ridge for pics.
Recommended for small groups with good class 3 skills only.
Sam Mills - Jan 29, 2004 5:40 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Face Date Climbed: August 2003I climbed this route with SummitPost members Misha, Etsuko, Michael G. and Andrew. A fantastic climb on a fantastic peak. Michael and myself went on tho climb Norman Clyde Peak (Mid Pals neighbor) the same day. Tent to tent, 12 hours.
mtnfoto - Jan 22, 2004 3:34 pm
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: Summer 1980Climbed this with Mark Goebel. This route defines class 3 climbing.
Robt - Nov 5, 2003 3:37 pm
Route Climbed: NE Face Date Climbed: July 2003