Mom's Fears, 5.10a

The off route portion. 5th Pitch- 60m- 5.9/ I believe Andy’s notes are confusing in describing this pitch and thus I did actually climb the wrong 60m at my first attempt. He speaks of “brilliant” climbing on a crack that splits the headwall. Well, there is such a crack, but it is more in the 5.10 range. It was fun, but as I neared the top, I could see I was under nothing but choss for the next pitch. Thankfully somebody else had done the same and left a rap piton. The only telltale sign that this good crack was probably not it was that it was quite muddy on the finger a time or two. The corner/crack you want is actually right above a pinnacle to your left. Instead of belaying where Andy put the fixed belay, just scramble up a small chimney between the pinnacle and the wall and set the belayer there, a much better belay on a huge ledge. You are really climbing the arête of sorts, eventually traversing over a rib to the left to overcome the obvious roof above. There are some bolts just below and left of that roof used for the tricky traverse. Head up the well protected corner crack until you reach the first bolt, then traverse left clipping another bolt and make a bold mantle up on the rib and stem into the shallow corner to your left. There will be no more trad gear opportunities, rather you must climb steep ground, if anything trending right, past a few hard to spot pitons to the next belay. Damn important to run your doubles correctly or rope drag will be an issue. If you are not willing to climb that initial corner crack on just one strand, you might best use an optional belay which can be established at the first bolt. The 60m belay is a semi-hanging belay stance at a bolt and piton (2009). Mom's Fears, 5.10a, 8 Pitches, Necromancer Wall, Yamnuska, Alberta, July, 2009