Climbed the Tacul as an acclimitisation sortie before attempting Mont Blanc. A bit of a slog up the face but the Bergshrund made life quite interesting!
On reaching the summit the wind was fierce and cold but the views were fantastic. My first 4000er!
Route Climbed: Contamine Grisolle Date Climbed: July 2001
An excellent mixed climb up the LHS of the North Face Triangle. We did not summit as we were knackered from a long day on the Midi-Plan in a whiteout the previous day. For all the British users on here, this route would be easy grade 3 in Scotland with good belays
Route Climbed: form Aig du Midi Date Climbed: 22 August 2003
is out of condition due to the small amounts of snow last winter and the following heatwave as the snow bridge has colasped we took the line to the left around the crevasses and up the serac. this 5m pitch on the serac is fine in the eary morning but after a day of sun becomes very unpleasant.
Route Climbed: NW flank Date Climbed: 09 july 2003
we had a good pace, and it was a very nice climb, very varied, but since snow conditions this year are awfull, we turned back after a partie dropped into the crevasse which we had just crossed three seconds ago. we didnt feel like going for the summit anymore...
but for the rest, I think it should be a nice climb!
Route Climbed: NW flank (normal route) Date Climbed: 22 August 2002
We reach the summit via the normal route. The weather was sunny and the view of the Alpes magnificent. We needed two hours and forty minutes for the ascent and two and a half for the descent. Easy ascent without any difficulties.
Chere Couloir -- March 22, 2003 -- Climbed the Chere Couloir in 5 pitches with Juan Valderrama, then continued over mixed ground and one more ice pitch to reach the top of the north face triangle. We then followed the north ridge (avoiding some crevasses and staying well back from the cornice) to reach the summit rocks. The descent by the NW slope was quite hairy, with a rappel over the bergschrund and some very steep downclimbing at the bottom of the route.
Hidden Couloir (Cecchinel-Jager variant with direct finish) -- February 4, 2007 -- With Tracy and Magnus, simul-soloed the first 200m of the Jager Couloir, then moved right to the Hidden Couloir and simul-soloed to reach the direct finish. Tracy led the crux pitch of 90 degree ice (grade 5) in a chimney followed by hard mixed ground to reach the north ridge. We then followed the north ridge until we could make a descending traverse above the seracs to reach the normal route on the NW slope. The descent was a bit treacherous with areas of wind slab and a steep section above the lower bergschrund. After completing the descent, we returned to the Aiguille du Midi cable-car station and bivied in the restrooms.
Contamine-Grisolle -- June 26, 2013 -- Climbed with Oyvind from Norway and realized that I'm quite out of shape at the moment. Interesting climbing but a bit crowded. We soloed the lower part of the route to the first ice runnel and then simul-climbed the rest. The descent down the normal route was in better condition than on prior trips.
Route Climbed: Chere Couloir, descent north slope Date Climbed: March 22, 2003
the Chere looks fine, but the second part of the north face triangle requires good alpine scrambing skills and the ability of moving together. We continued via the north ridge to the summit. The ridge is very creavassed now and the huge cornise is scaring. The descent via the normal route requires one rappel on a rimaye and downclimb 2 sections of 80 degrees snow, one of 15 meters and other of 50 meters. The normal rourte is now very exposed ro seracs and has many creavasses.
Route Climbed: normal route from valle blanche Date Climbed: 20th July 2003
a wonderful quiet climb (a rareity I know!) from an early morning bivvi on the Valee Blanche. Had the summit to ourselves and watched dawn break over Italy - a wonderfully straightforward climb.
Only on the descent did we pass the crowds wh had spewed out of the Midi telepherique that morning. Recommended for acclimatisation and its simplicity.
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 2002
My first ever alpine route (and first ever time in crampons), We went for it cos the weather was turning very soon so had to do it or not anything. Alot steeper than 40 degrees in places that year, The only downside is the number of people at the summit.
noah - Oct 16, 2004 7:00 pm
Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: late summer 02took at lot longer than expected not happy with snow conditions on the return.
TodoVertical - Sep 1, 2004 12:54 pm
Route Climbed: Normal-Guiding Date Climbed: July 2004Climbed Tacul the day before summiting mont blanc. Perfect weather. Acclimatizacion for next day.
Andy Kennedy - Aug 17, 2004 7:18 am
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 2004Climbed the Tacul as an acclimitisation sortie before attempting Mont Blanc. A bit of a slog up the face but the Bergshrund made life quite interesting!
On reaching the summit the wind was fierce and cold but the views were fantastic. My first 4000er!
mthoelke - Aug 13, 2004 8:56 am
Route Climbed: Contamine Mazeaud Date Climbed: 18 July 2004Climbed the route in reasonable conditions, one pitch at 60 degrees, didn't summit though only scrambling left to summit.
kimmenn - Aug 1, 2004 1:46 pm
Route Climbed: Ordinary route Date Climbed: 30.6.2004After summit we spent 48 hours in storm at Col Maudit
and could not attemp the Mont Blanc cause gale force winds.
Jose Ignacio - Aug 1, 2004 9:21 am
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 27th 2004Climbed Tacul the day before summiting mont blanc. Perfect weather. Acclimatizacion for next day.
cherokee - Jun 2, 2004 11:44 am
Route Climbed: Gervasutti Couloir Date Climbed: July 19, 1976This was my first climb (with Dan Matheson) of the summer season 1976 after a couple days warming up on the Bossons Glacier.
andrea.it - May 11, 2004 11:04 am
Route Climbed: from agille du midi Date Climbed: august 2001No chance to reach mount maudit,too late
Antonio Giani - Apr 13, 2004 2:38 am
Route Climbed: canalone Gervasutti Date Climbed: 1970dal rifugio Torino
Probemeister - Sep 8, 2003 10:11 am
Route Climbed: Contamine Grisolle Date Climbed: July 2001An excellent mixed climb up the LHS of the North Face Triangle. We did not summit as we were knackered from a long day on the Midi-Plan in a whiteout the previous day. For all the British users on here, this route would be easy grade 3 in Scotland with good belays
Richard Purchon - Sep 8, 2003 7:14 am
Route Climbed: form Aig du Midi Date Climbed: 22 August 2003is out of condition due to the small amounts of snow last winter and the following heatwave as the snow bridge has colasped we took the line to the left around the crevasses and up the serac. this 5m pitch on the serac is fine in the eary morning but after a day of sun becomes very unpleasant.
denarne - Jul 20, 2003 6:22 am
Route Climbed: NW flank Date Climbed: 09 july 2003we had a good pace, and it was a very nice climb, very varied, but since snow conditions this year are awfull, we turned back after a partie dropped into the crevasse which we had just crossed three seconds ago. we didnt feel like going for the summit anymore...
but for the rest, I think it should be a nice climb!
athpal - Apr 24, 2003 3:52 am
Route Climbed: NW flank (normal route) Date Climbed: 22 August 2002We reach the summit via the normal route. The weather was sunny and the view of the Alpes magnificent. We needed two hours and forty minutes for the ascent and two and a half for the descent. Easy ascent without any difficulties.
Tom Fralich - Mar 26, 2003 10:46 am
Route Climbed: See Below Date Climbed: See BelowChere Couloir -- March 22, 2003 -- Climbed the Chere Couloir in 5 pitches with Juan Valderrama, then continued over mixed ground and one more ice pitch to reach the top of the north face triangle. We then followed the north ridge (avoiding some crevasses and staying well back from the cornice) to reach the summit rocks. The descent by the NW slope was quite hairy, with a rappel over the bergschrund and some very steep downclimbing at the bottom of the route.
Hidden Couloir (Cecchinel-Jager variant with direct finish) -- February 4, 2007 -- With Tracy and Magnus, simul-soloed the first 200m of the Jager Couloir, then moved right to the Hidden Couloir and simul-soloed to reach the direct finish. Tracy led the crux pitch of 90 degree ice (grade 5) in a chimney followed by hard mixed ground to reach the north ridge. We then followed the north ridge until we could make a descending traverse above the seracs to reach the normal route on the NW slope. The descent was a bit treacherous with areas of wind slab and a steep section above the lower bergschrund. After completing the descent, we returned to the Aiguille du Midi cable-car station and bivied in the restrooms.
Contamine-Grisolle -- June 26, 2013 -- Climbed with Oyvind from Norway and realized that I'm quite out of shape at the moment. Interesting climbing but a bit crowded. We soloed the lower part of the route to the first ice runnel and then simul-climbed the rest. The descent down the normal route was in better condition than on prior trips.
El Tigre Valderrama - Mar 24, 2003 10:00 am
Route Climbed: Chere Couloir, descent north slope Date Climbed: March 22, 2003the Chere looks fine, but the second part of the north face triangle requires good alpine scrambing skills and the ability of moving together. We continued via the north ridge to the summit. The ridge is very creavassed now and the huge cornise is scaring. The descent via the normal route requires one rappel on a rimaye and downclimb 2 sections of 80 degrees snow, one of 15 meters and other of 50 meters. The normal rourte is now very exposed ro seracs and has many creavasses.
tne - Mar 24, 2003 2:03 am
Route Climbed: NW flank Date Climbed: 22 Mar 2003A nice day, one big crevass on the way up. No other problems(The guy in cosmique hut sad it was 2 big crevasses but we only found one)
cuprina - Mar 13, 2003 4:15 pm
Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: April 9, 2002Few days after running Paris marathon... Did not summit but enjoyed the snow and total solitude on the glacier. Will come back someday.
everesttim - Feb 28, 2003 5:19 am
Route Climbed: normal route from valle blanche Date Climbed: 20th July 2003a wonderful quiet climb (a rareity I know!) from an early morning bivvi on the Valee Blanche. Had the summit to ourselves and watched dawn break over Italy - a wonderfully straightforward climb.
Only on the descent did we pass the crowds wh had spewed out of the Midi telepherique that morning. Recommended for acclimatisation and its simplicity.
Frank - Feb 23, 2003 7:40 am
Route Climbed: Goulotte de Cheré Date Climbed: July 2001Unfortunately we had to retreat because of bad weather. Goulotte de Cheré is alsmost all the time in condition. Will try it again in march 2003
Check also:
www.ohm-chamonix.com
www.iceclimbing.nl -> links
www.basislager.ch
Mr Eddie - Dec 29, 2002 3:35 am
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 2002My first ever alpine route (and first ever time in crampons), We went for it cos the weather was turning very soon so had to do it or not anything. Alot steeper than 40 degrees in places that year, The only downside is the number of people at the summit.