Route Climbed: Three Cols Route Date Climbed: 15 June 2000
A fantastic but long day from our camp site on top of the Mer de Glace just below the Cosmiques Hut. Left at midnight with the other hundred or so climbers but made good time and were one of the first to arrive at the steep climb below Mt.Maudit. Unfortunately one of the four on the rope came down with altitude fatigue after the steep section (which was a headache lead fighting off other climbers) but decided to push on. The pace slowed and only reached Mt.Blanc summit at 11:00am. A fantastic narrow summit with great views, and then pushed off down towards the Bossons Glacier route - literally a snow desert burning any exposed skin - and stayed at the hut above La Jonction. Cream crackered but very happy!
Route Climbed: Three Peaks Date Climbed: June 7, 2001
Started at the Aguille du Midi and with telemarks, skiid the ridge to the shagrin of onlookers (shock for myself!) and slept at the Cosmiques. We started our ascent at 3am which hindsight tells me was a little late when telemarking the 3M route. Sunrise greeted us spectacularly on Maudit, but it was then that we realized that the wind would be fierce. It was slow going into the wind and the velocity rose to 70K plus (probably reaching temp. of -60)! My skins failed at one point on Maudit and it looked tricky to complete from there, but after some maintenance, and with a little luck, we carried on. The wind became so fierce underneath the summit that we secured our gear including skiis, and climbed the final approach with only our axes in hand. Silent , clear and magnificent at the summit with no other people around. Despite significant frostbite to the face, and a scary fall at the start, successfully tele'd down the north face and through the Grand Mulets !! A gorgeous and dangerous day at times, and certainly this mountain commands my respect and awe. Can't wait to do other routes!
Route Climbed: Dome du Goûter Date Climbed: 20 July 1990
We (my father, two brothers and a friend of mine) were very inexperienced climbers at that moment. We have no experience with glacier climbing methods but it didn't matter us, we had the strengh. We tried Mont Blanc after having hiking a lot in the Massif: Mer de Glace, MB du Tacul, Glacier des Bossons, Petite Aiguille Verte. Passed the night before in refuge du Goûter (2-3 hours of sleep with every kind of noises on the dining-room floor), next day we reached refuge-bivouac Vallot after having started at 3 AM. We had a voting so descending was the winner (I voted to ascend) because people thought we have no time resting to take tramway back to the valley. Also a strong wind blowed at Vallot and we peged out. We just took the last railway to Saint Gervais.
Route Climbed: via East Face of Aiguille du Blanc and Peuterey Ridge Date Climbed: Summer 1982
started at night from the bivouac at Col de la Furche...did North Face of Aig. du Blanc in 3 hours without a rope and arrived the summit of Aig. du Blanc at sunrise...rappeled down to the begin of the Peuterey Ridge...climbed Peuterey Ridge without belay and arrived Mont Blanc Summit around 5 p.m. ...went down via Dome due Gouter and Aig. du Gouter and arrived Refuge du Gouter in the evening...very long day but wonderful impressions...highly recommended
Route Climbed: Traverse via Mont Maudit - Montblanc du Tacul - Montblanc - Dome du Gouter - Aig. du Gouter Date Climbed: Summer 1978
Started in the night from the old Refuge du Cosmique and arrived at Refuge Gouter late in the afternoon...worked as Mountain Guide and had a group of 8 people...wonderful day...great adventure for the group
Route Climbed: East Face - Brenva Ridge/Col Moore Date Climbed: August 1977
took us one a long day from the bivouac at the Col de la Fourche through the Brenva Ridge and back via Montblanc du Tacul to the old Refuge du Cosmique......recommended
Route Climbed: Normal route via Grands Mulets Date Climbed: Aug/14/2000
The route via Grands Mulets is long, but beautiful and lonely till Grands Mulets. From Biv. Vallot, the Bossesridge was, of course very crowded. I climbed the Bossesridge soloing.
Route Climbed: Gouter ridge - Les Trois Mt. blanc - Peuteray ridge Date Climbed: '91 '97 '98 '99 '00 '01
I have now been up the Mt. Blanc 22~23 times, and I've only backed off 5 times. This may sound like a lot but its nothing compared to some of the local Chamonix guides that I have spoken with (220+ times).
Its a fabulous mountain, with lots of history. I hope to climb it many more times, as long as I never catch up to my age, although that will probably happen soon. It would be nice to visit some of the other more obscure routes in the future.
There is no sunrise like a sunrise from the summit of Mt. Blanc. You can see and sometimes identify mountains on either end of the chain of the Alps, from the south of France all the way to Austria.
I reached the summit with 3 mates after passing 2 nights in tents. On descent we spent another night on Aiguille du Gouter because we were too tired after having wake up at 1:30 and walked for 10.5 hours. The Gouter hut is overcrowded in July and August. We were very lucky with the weather, otherwise you can't stay 4 days on the mountain. Read the weather information at Maison de la Montagne in Chamonix before parting. Be carefull with the overcrowd on the Gouter Couloir and the summit cornice. Also wear a helmet on the route between Tete Rouse and Gouter huts because of rocks falling. Go in good phisical condition because of the effort and height.
Route Climbed: 3 Mont Blanc Date Climbed: July 3, 2001
Reached the summit with Francis Kelsey in absolute perfect conditions. No wind, no clouds, and not even very cold. We left the Cosmiques Hut at around 2AM and had easy climbing up Tacul, where we took our first break. The climb to the ridge on Maudit was also straightforward, although quite steep near the top. After negotiating a somewhat unstable snow bridge, we reached the ridge just in time for sunrise. With the most difficult section completed, we headed down to the col and started the long slog to the summit. I started to feel quite tired at around 4,600 m, but enjoyed great views in all directions. We reached the summit at 7AM, which we shared with about 25 others (most from the Gouter Route).
After 15 min on the summit, we started down the Gouter Ridge. Our plan was to descend the Gouter route and catch the train back to Chamonix. But since it was still quite early we elected to descend the Grandes Mullets glacier to the A. du Midi cable car mid-station. This likely shortened the descent since there was still quite a bit of snow over terrain which would usually be loose rock and boulders. The last hour was a bit frustrating, since the cable car station was clearly visible, yet we seemed to be making little progress. Eventually we made it and rode down in style to Chamonix.
I found this to be a straightforward but very strenuous climb. The ascent is quite long distance-wise and involves multiple ups and downs which is challenging psychologically. There's nothing like climbing 400 m only to lose 200 m almost immediately. The descent is 2,500 m which wreaks havoc on even the strongest knees. And its simply a long day of climbing. We took 10 hours for the traverse, which I think is probably shorter than average, given my physical conditioning at the time and nearly perfect conditions on the route. I'm guessing that some parties may take more than 12 hours. But the suffering is well worth it, since you really see a lot of the mountain.
Route Climbed: The traverse of Mont Blanc via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit Date Climbed: July, Aug 1997, 98
Misleading climb, similar to Denali but much shorter! Weather can change quickly, can be very crowded with climbers of various skill levels. Beautiful sunrise views and strong sense of accomplishment upon the summit and return.
Romain - Jun 20, 2001 10:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 1999
Route Climbed: Trois Monts (Tacul, Maudit, Mont Blanc) Date Climbed: July 25, 1999
Successful on the second try - perfect weather (this time). We climbed via the Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, down via les Grand Mulets. Grandiose views but crowded. No serious difficulties except a serac to pass under. Trip report
Route Climbed: Traverse: gouter route up, 2 montblanc route down Date Climbed: 25 july 1997
Crowded but beautiful, easy but dangerous. Don't underestimate this mountain!
Many people get killed here as it is said to be so 'easy' . Take your time, be aware of the weather and be prepared for bad times. When descending the 3 montblancs route (bvery beautiful, quiet but also verytiring), know how th use your crampons and rope. The day we descended 4 people died there as they did not think it was steep enough to use a running belay...
Antony Walker - May 27, 2002 10:43 pm
Route Climbed: Three Cols Route Date Climbed: 15 June 2000A fantastic but long day from our camp site on top of the Mer de Glace just below the Cosmiques Hut. Left at midnight with the other hundred or so climbers but made good time and were one of the first to arrive at the steep climb below Mt.Maudit. Unfortunately one of the four on the rope came down with altitude fatigue after the steep section (which was a headache lead fighting off other climbers) but decided to push on. The pace slowed and only reached Mt.Blanc summit at 11:00am. A fantastic narrow summit with great views, and then pushed off down towards the Bossons Glacier route - literally a snow desert burning any exposed skin - and stayed at the hut above La Jonction. Cream crackered but very happy!
scotttroxel - Apr 16, 2002 8:49 am
Route Climbed: Three Peaks Date Climbed: June 7, 2001Started at the Aguille du Midi and with telemarks, skiid the ridge to the shagrin of onlookers (shock for myself!) and slept at the Cosmiques. We started our ascent at 3am which hindsight tells me was a little late when telemarking the 3M route. Sunrise greeted us spectacularly on Maudit, but it was then that we realized that the wind would be fierce. It was slow going into the wind and the velocity rose to 70K plus (probably reaching temp. of -60)! My skins failed at one point on Maudit and it looked tricky to complete from there, but after some maintenance, and with a little luck, we carried on. The wind became so fierce underneath the summit that we secured our gear including skiis, and climbed the final approach with only our axes in hand. Silent , clear and magnificent at the summit with no other people around. Despite significant frostbite to the face, and a scary fall at the start, successfully tele'd down the north face and through the Grand Mulets !! A gorgeous and dangerous day at times, and certainly this mountain commands my respect and awe. Can't wait to do other routes!
Diego Sahagún - Apr 15, 2002 5:46 pm
Route Climbed: Dome du Goûter Date Climbed: 20 July 1990We (my father, two brothers and a friend of mine) were very inexperienced climbers at that moment. We have no experience with glacier climbing methods but it didn't matter us, we had the strengh. We tried Mont Blanc after having hiking a lot in the Massif: Mer de Glace, MB du Tacul, Glacier des Bossons, Petite Aiguille Verte. Passed the night before in refuge du Goûter (2-3 hours of sleep with every kind of noises on the dining-room floor), next day we reached refuge-bivouac Vallot after having started at 3 AM. We had a voting so descending was the winner (I voted to ascend) because people thought we have no time resting to take tramway back to the valley. Also a strong wind blowed at Vallot and we peged out. We just took the last railway to Saint Gervais.
thomas.schmeidl - Mar 19, 2002 2:46 pm
Route Climbed: from aiguille de midi with ski Date Climbed: May 1992We were only four climbers starting from refuge cosmiques but we could watch about 150 headlamps starting from the grandes mulets
tobi - Feb 6, 2002 1:05 am
Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: August 1999Reached summit with blue sky and sunshine
Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:42 am
Route Climbed: via East Face of Aiguille du Blanc and Peuterey Ridge Date Climbed: Summer 1982started at night from the bivouac at Col de la Furche...did North Face of Aig. du Blanc in 3 hours without a rope and arrived the summit of Aig. du Blanc at sunrise...rappeled down to the begin of the Peuterey Ridge...climbed Peuterey Ridge without belay and arrived Mont Blanc Summit around 5 p.m. ...went down via Dome due Gouter and Aig. du Gouter and arrived Refuge du Gouter in the evening...very long day but wonderful impressions...highly recommended
Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:36 am
Route Climbed: Traverse via Mont Maudit - Montblanc du Tacul - Montblanc - Dome du Gouter - Aig. du Gouter Date Climbed: Summer 1978Started in the night from the old Refuge du Cosmique and arrived at Refuge Gouter late in the afternoon...worked as Mountain Guide and had a group of 8 people...wonderful day...great adventure for the group
Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:32 am
Route Climbed: East Face - Brenva Ridge/Col Moore Date Climbed: August 1977took us one a long day from the bivouac at the Col de la Fourche through the Brenva Ridge and back via Montblanc du Tacul to the old Refuge du Cosmique......recommended
Bernhard Sauer - Jan 25, 2002 7:13 am
Route Climbed: Normal route via Grand Mulet by Ski Date Climbed: May 1980Solo...skied down the North flank from the summit...wonderful fresh power snow...a perfect day
dirkclaessen - Dec 29, 2001 2:26 pm
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 1989Easy but beautiful snow route. Fair weather but very cold and a lot of wind. From the Gouter hut it's only a short climb (about 3 h). Solo
Rahel Maria Liu - Dec 13, 2001 1:22 pm
Route Climbed: Normal route via Grands Mulets Date Climbed: Aug/14/2000The route via Grands Mulets is long, but beautiful and lonely till Grands Mulets. From Biv. Vallot, the Bossesridge was, of course very crowded. I climbed the Bossesridge soloing.
schadik - Nov 20, 2001 11:31 am
Route Climbed: Gouter ridge - Les Trois Mt. blanc - Peuteray ridge Date Climbed: '91 '97 '98 '99 '00 '01I have now been up the Mt. Blanc 22~23 times, and I've only backed off 5 times. This may sound like a lot but its nothing compared to some of the local Chamonix guides that I have spoken with (220+ times).
Its a fabulous mountain, with lots of history. I hope to climb it many more times, as long as I never catch up to my age, although that will probably happen soon. It would be nice to visit some of the other more obscure routes in the future.
There is no sunrise like a sunrise from the summit of Mt. Blanc. You can see and sometimes identify mountains on either end of the chain of the Alps, from the south of France all the way to Austria.
Diego Sahagún - Oct 27, 2001 5:04 pm
Route Climbed: Gouter Ridge Date Climbed: 15/8/01I reached the summit with 3 mates after passing 2 nights in tents. On descent we spent another night on Aiguille du Gouter because we were too tired after having wake up at 1:30 and walked for 10.5 hours. The Gouter hut is overcrowded in July and August. We were very lucky with the weather, otherwise you can't stay 4 days on the mountain. Read the weather information at Maison de la Montagne in Chamonix before parting. Be carefull with the overcrowd on the Gouter Couloir and the summit cornice. Also wear a helmet on the route between Tete Rouse and Gouter huts because of rocks falling. Go in good phisical condition because of the effort and height.
UlrichPrinz - Oct 25, 2001 12:54 pm
Route Climbed: From Cosmiques Date Climbed: 14 September 1999This was my first time on a glacier, first time with crampons,
first time over 4000m, first time soloed a route, first time ... ;-)
Don't try this if you value your life !
If you have the knowledge & strenght though, this is
a far better (less crowded) route than the Gouter.
johan - Oct 12, 2001 8:13 am
Route Climbed: Route du Goûter up and Les Grand Mulets down Date Climbed: 24-27 August 2001Went up unexperienced without a guide. Thanks to good weather we made it to the top. Tips: Bring a guide with you!
The whole story is to be read at: http://www.cern.ch/johan.karlsson/montblancsummary.html
Be carefull!
/Johan
zappa18 - Oct 7, 2001 7:50 am
Route Climbed: Goutier Route Date Climbed: 28/8/01Very nice mountain.
We make it on 2 days on the usual route (Goutier Route). The first day is around4-5 hours of walking and a little non-technic rock climb.
The second day (starting at 3 am) is much more difficult, and it took 5 hour to reach the summit.
It's worth it!
Tom Fralich - Sep 11, 2001 2:30 pm
Route Climbed: 3 Mont Blanc Date Climbed: July 3, 2001Reached the summit with Francis Kelsey in absolute perfect conditions. No wind, no clouds, and not even very cold. We left the Cosmiques Hut at around 2AM and had easy climbing up Tacul, where we took our first break. The climb to the ridge on Maudit was also straightforward, although quite steep near the top. After negotiating a somewhat unstable snow bridge, we reached the ridge just in time for sunrise. With the most difficult section completed, we headed down to the col and started the long slog to the summit. I started to feel quite tired at around 4,600 m, but enjoyed great views in all directions. We reached the summit at 7AM, which we shared with about 25 others (most from the Gouter Route).
After 15 min on the summit, we started down the Gouter Ridge. Our plan was to descend the Gouter route and catch the train back to Chamonix. But since it was still quite early we elected to descend the Grandes Mullets glacier to the A. du Midi cable car mid-station. This likely shortened the descent since there was still quite a bit of snow over terrain which would usually be loose rock and boulders. The last hour was a bit frustrating, since the cable car station was clearly visible, yet we seemed to be making little progress. Eventually we made it and rode down in style to Chamonix.
I found this to be a straightforward but very strenuous climb. The ascent is quite long distance-wise and involves multiple ups and downs which is challenging psychologically. There's nothing like climbing 400 m only to lose 200 m almost immediately. The descent is 2,500 m which wreaks havoc on even the strongest knees. And its simply a long day of climbing. We took 10 hours for the traverse, which I think is probably shorter than average, given my physical conditioning at the time and nearly perfect conditions on the route. I'm guessing that some parties may take more than 12 hours. But the suffering is well worth it, since you really see a lot of the mountain.
Alan Arnette - Jul 30, 2001 1:24 pm
Route Climbed: The traverse of Mont Blanc via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit Date Climbed: July, Aug 1997, 98Misleading climb, similar to Denali but much shorter! Weather can change quickly, can be very crowded with climbers of various skill levels. Beautiful sunrise views and strong sense of accomplishment upon the summit and return.
Romain - Jun 20, 2001 10:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 1999
Route Climbed: Trois Monts (Tacul, Maudit, Mont Blanc) Date Climbed: July 25, 1999Successful on the second try - perfect weather (this time). We climbed via the Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit, down via les Grand Mulets. Grandiose views but crowded. No serious difficulties except a serac to pass under. Trip report
7summits - Mar 30, 2001 2:27 am
Route Climbed: Traverse: gouter route up, 2 montblanc route down Date Climbed: 25 july 1997Crowded but beautiful, easy but dangerous. Don't underestimate this mountain!
Many people get killed here as it is said to be so 'easy' . Take your time, be aware of the weather and be prepared for bad times. When descending the 3 montblancs route (bvery beautiful, quiet but also verytiring), know how th use your crampons and rope. The day we descended 4 people died there as they did not think it was steep enough to use a running belay...
Keep climbing,
Harry
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