Morcles (Dent de) Climber's Log

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Nader1

Nader1 - Mar 4, 2016 1:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2002

Route Climbed: Route of the Military (SW face) in french la grande vire  Sucess!

Summitted 7 times last climb 2012

bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Sep 19, 2010 11:37 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2010

military route  Sucess!

I climbed the same military route (from 1720m) in 2h30 to the summit (2h going down) , i agreed I went quite fast being alone there. From about 2400 m it will be quite steep, and attention is required in several places. One should avoid going there when it's hot, after some rain (it could turn to be very slippery in some places). A helmet is advised. At about 2550 m one will find a good shelter (quite large inside). near the very end one will have to climb a 1.50 m high chemney, which is quite easy to climb up and down. Follow yellow marks all the way up (be cautious, red signs leads to much more challenging and exposed route to "petite" dent de morcles (only accessible with climbing gear, rope, etc... and it seems to be very exposed in some places according to what can be seen from main top). I guess the military route is probably more challenging than the other one.

view is really great on this peak, probably best season is september / october.

Avoid attempting this route with snow / ice cover.

Water is very scarce, so take a lot of supply with you.

Bruno Baschung

Huberschwiller

Huberschwiller - Sep 9, 2004 3:26 pm

Route Climbed: Route of the Military (SW face) Date Climbed: 16 august 2004  Sucess!

I climbed from Les Martinaux through the steep and impressive SW face and the "Grande Vire" on a super tiny path in good conditions without snow. I walked down the normal route to Fenestral Hut. Many mountain goats ! I came back with the path of the Tour des Muverans over Fully lake, Demecre Hut, Rionda.

Time needed for this tour : 8 to 9 hours.

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