router1998 - Sep 21, 2011 2:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2011
North Couloir from Mills Lake
We planned this climbing for our SW release name Mount Abbot. The weather is great after a week of storm weather. There are good snow coverage from lake.
We started from Mosquito flat trail head at noon time and camped in Mills Lake. The campsite is pretty good.
We started the hike at 7:00am. We tried to walk on left side of lake and tried to avoid the snow. It is a mistake. We have to walk down to snow bank and put the crampon on.
The snow is soft under sunshine and I slipped once and self arrested. The scrambling part is ok in general. I lost the cairnes couple times and have to go back. After the exposure bridge area, the top part is easy. No wind and a beautiful day.
back to trail head at 5:30pm and drove back to Bay area.
bc44caesar - Aug 13, 2011 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011
North Couloir
Climbed from Dade Lake. Traverse to Abbot was pretty straightforward, although there were a lot of annoying penitentes. Scrambling to the ridge was dirty and mostly cl. 2. The catwalk part is fun, then a short slog to the summit. Great views, decent route.
96avs01 - Aug 8, 2011 11:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011
NE Coulie
Great daytrip up the NE Couloir via Ruby Lake. Travel above Ruby Lake was on nearly 100% snow.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 28, 2011 4:19 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010
NE couloir/Petit Griffon
Fun outing with Chad. Did Abbot.
Attempted PG winter Jan 28 2011, no success but will be back. Both trips via dayhikes
July 3rd 2011 Petit Griffon with my friends Chad and Bryan. Awesome spire, awesome views, awesome weather, and awesome company.
SKI - Jan 31, 2011 10:22 am Date Climbed: Jan 28, 2011
Day Hike to Petit Griffin
Excellent outing and great snow/weather conditions with[http://www.summitpost.org/users/pellucidwombat/12893]Pellucid Wombat[/URL], [http://www.summitpost.org/users/shane-rathbun/59854]Wrathbum[/URL] and [http://www.summitpost.org/users/vitaliy-m/62684]Vitaliy Kalashnikov[/URL].
I froze atop the second belay station as the packs made getting through the crux a difficult and prolonged affair. Rapped from the station. My thanks to Shane and Mark for donating webbing and a rap ring to the cause.
Up the standard route- very enjoyable. Snow was very solid crossing the couloir, but not ice yet.
ridgeline - Aug 22, 2010 11:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2010
NE Couloir
Camped near Mills Lake night before, always hate that crap right off the couloir to the ridge.
Daria - Aug 16, 2010 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009
SC '09
Climbed with Bill Peters and Adam as an alternate peak for the Sierra Challenge-great fun climb, we were front pointing in our crampons on our way up the glacier...in mid August...fun ridge traverse on the way to the summit.
derbilly - Aug 22, 2009 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
Challenge day 5
Climbed with bechtt, darija and adamus. Nice, relatively short day. Nice climbing on the ridge.
bechtt - Aug 14, 2009 1:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
NE Coulior
Great views -- 7.5 hours car-to-car
rhyang - Aug 3, 2009 3:07 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009
NE couloir
Dayhiked from Mosquito Flat TH. Couloir in good shape. Nice scrambling once I got onto the ridge, but the part coming up from the couloir was loose and sandy. The slog up to the top seemed to go on forever..
Beautiful day and great views of Dade, Mills, Bear Creek Spire's backside, and various other neighboring peaks.
Finally on my 4th try. Rained out before. Summited by myself while Andy Zdon waited below. Almost stopped on the ridge but the route opened up as I kept going. Great view.
gjonbelay - Mar 14, 2009 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2003
NE Couloir August 16 2003
Day hiked this peak fro Mosquito Flat TH with Thomas Johansson. This was a great climb but the loose moraine on the approach left little to be desired.
This was an exciting climb for me, but a little nerve-wracking. During the approach, I was looking up at the northeast couloir thinking 'that looks like an impossible vertical wall, but they said it's doable on sp, so i'll give it a try'. As it turns out, climbing the glacier was fairly easy, but the 500' from the top of the glacier to the ridge was pretty hairy (ice on the rocks, with snow on top of it). Crossing 'married man point' up on the ridge wasn't so bad, but I could see why some people wouldn't like it. When I got to the summit, visibility was about 100' with snow flurries and my gloves kept sticking to the metal summit register (as well as the rocks). The weather report said a storm was coming later that day, so I came down quickly, but the real snow didn't come until nightfall. Great peak though, probably the highlight of my week in the high country, even though I couldn't even enjoy the views.
router1998 - Sep 21, 2011 2:06 am Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2011
North Couloir from Mills LakeWe planned this climbing for our SW release name Mount Abbot. The weather is great after a week of storm weather. There are good snow coverage from lake.
We started from Mosquito flat trail head at noon time and camped in Mills Lake. The campsite is pretty good.
We started the hike at 7:00am. We tried to walk on left side of lake and tried to avoid the snow. It is a mistake. We have to walk down to snow bank and put the crampon on.
The snow is soft under sunshine and I slipped once and self arrested. The scrambling part is ok in general. I lost the cairnes couple times and have to go back. After the exposure bridge area, the top part is easy. No wind and a beautiful day.
back to trail head at 5:30pm and drove back to Bay area.
bc44caesar - Aug 13, 2011 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011
North CouloirClimbed from Dade Lake. Traverse to Abbot was pretty straightforward, although there were a lot of annoying penitentes. Scrambling to the ridge was dirty and mostly cl. 2. The catwalk part is fun, then a short slog to the summit. Great views, decent route.
96avs01 - Aug 8, 2011 11:45 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011
NE CoulieGreat daytrip up the NE Couloir via Ruby Lake. Travel above Ruby Lake was on nearly 100% snow.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 28, 2011 4:19 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010
NE couloir/Petit GriffonFun outing with Chad. Did Abbot.
Attempted PG winter Jan 28 2011, no success but will be back. Both trips via dayhikes
July 3rd 2011 Petit Griffon with my friends Chad and Bryan. Awesome spire, awesome views, awesome weather, and awesome company.
SKI - Jan 31, 2011 10:22 am Date Climbed: Jan 28, 2011
Day Hike to Petit GriffinExcellent outing and great snow/weather conditions with[http://www.summitpost.org/users/pellucidwombat/12893]Pellucid Wombat[/URL], [http://www.summitpost.org/users/shane-rathbun/59854]Wrathbum[/URL] and [http://www.summitpost.org/users/vitaliy-m/62684]Vitaliy Kalashnikov[/URL].
I froze atop the second belay station as the packs made getting through the crux a difficult and prolonged affair. Rapped from the station. My thanks to Shane and Mark for donating webbing and a rap ring to the cause.
mrchad9 - Sep 27, 2010 1:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2010
NE CouloirUp the standard route- very enjoyable. Snow was very solid crossing the couloir, but not ice yet.
ridgeline - Aug 22, 2010 11:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2010
NE CouloirCamped near Mills Lake night before, always hate that crap right off the couloir to the ridge.
Daria - Aug 16, 2010 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009
SC '09Climbed with Bill Peters and Adam as an alternate peak for the Sierra Challenge-great fun climb, we were front pointing in our crampons on our way up the glacier...in mid August...fun ridge traverse on the way to the summit.
boyblue - Aug 7, 2010 4:50 pm
SW ChuteSeptember, 1982 from Lake Italy and Gabbot Pass. Steep and enjoyable.
Michael Graupe - Sep 9, 2009 8:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009
NE CouloirEasy dayhike for a bonus challenge peak. 2009 Sierra Challenge.
Some Photos.
derbilly - Aug 22, 2009 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
Challenge day 5Climbed with bechtt, darija and adamus. Nice, relatively short day. Nice climbing on the ridge.
bechtt - Aug 14, 2009 1:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009
NE CouliorGreat views -- 7.5 hours car-to-car
rhyang - Aug 3, 2009 3:07 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009
NE couloirDayhiked from Mosquito Flat TH. Couloir in good shape. Nice scrambling once I got onto the ridge, but the part coming up from the couloir was loose and sandy. The slog up to the top seemed to go on forever..
Beautiful day and great views of Dade, Mills, Bear Creek Spire's backside, and various other neighboring peaks.
bruceg - Jul 31, 2009 2:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 1989
Northeast Couloir soloFinally on my 4th try. Rained out before. Summited by myself while Andy Zdon waited below. Almost stopped on the ridge but the route opened up as I kept going. Great view.
gjonbelay - Mar 14, 2009 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2003
NE Couloir August 16 2003Day hiked this peak fro Mosquito Flat TH with Thomas Johansson. This was a great climb but the loose moraine on the approach left little to be desired.
Trip Report
BCL - Aug 6, 2008 10:05 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2008
NE CouloirDayhike out of Mosquito Flat. Thunderstorm during descent added some excitement.
Sam Roberts - Jul 31, 2008 6:37 pm
NE CouloirDay hiked from Mosquito Flat.
bcd - May 2, 2008 11:59 am Date Climbed: May 1, 2008
NE ridgeUp the NE ridge, back down, and back up the NE Couloir
Brian Kalet - Apr 26, 2008 8:56 pm Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2008
NE CouloirTrip Report
paisajeroamericano - Oct 18, 2007 12:13 am Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2007
Scary StuffThis was an exciting climb for me, but a little nerve-wracking. During the approach, I was looking up at the northeast couloir thinking 'that looks like an impossible vertical wall, but they said it's doable on sp, so i'll give it a try'. As it turns out, climbing the glacier was fairly easy, but the 500' from the top of the glacier to the ridge was pretty hairy (ice on the rocks, with snow on top of it). Crossing 'married man point' up on the ridge wasn't so bad, but I could see why some people wouldn't like it. When I got to the summit, visibility was about 100' with snow flurries and my gloves kept sticking to the metal summit register (as well as the rocks). The weather report said a storm was coming later that day, so I came down quickly, but the real snow didn't come until nightfall. Great peak though, probably the highlight of my week in the high country, even though I couldn't even enjoy the views.