kleberr - Jun 14, 2022 2:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2015
SE face pleasure
As advertised - a great climb. Roped up for the first pitch and struggled a bit due to the wet rock and the backpack. We solo'ed the rest of the climb, very enjoyable cl 3/4 climbing in solid rock. Missed the traverse into the chute that leads to the notch on the ridge and added some more cl 5 climbing to the route. The final pitches on the ridge to the summit are great.
Quick descent via a scree chute to the trail.
With my son Simon (14 years old). This is great climb - with some steep 5.4 at the beginning, solid 4th class after that, a decent 3rd class gully climb and a spectacular ridge to a great summit to top all that off. Trip report
Solo Waterfall Route ascent, full-on winter conditions in mid June!
CWessels - Jun 28, 2018 12:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2018
West Ridge
The west face was a fairly loose and not particularly enjoyable slog. But the ridge itself was good fun. If you stick to the very crest of the ridge, it is mostly class 3. It only gets to class 4+ when you're very close to the summit. Stick to the top of the ridge as much as possible for the best climbing.
jdmorehouse - Aug 7, 2017 7:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2017
Transcendental
Up the south face. Climbed Thoreau (aka peak 12,691') the day before.
Bucky Alpine - Oct 26, 2016 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2016
Bit of an Epic
Climbed in a party of 3 and got hit by a random snow storm half way up the SE Face. We finally turned back on the ridge due to icy conditions and temps in the 20s. That led to 9 hours of sketchy downclimbing and rappelling into the night on wet rock. Good times. We left two cams in the low-angle chimney on pitch 2 Will pay return shipping and beers if anyone can get them out!
EPIC route w/ Amy. Roped up for two pitches then soloed the rest. Amazing exposure on the ridge.
Tullymt - Aug 10, 2016 1:54 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
SE Face
Soloed the route. Beautiful day
oliverkalt - Jul 28, 2016 10:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2016
SE face
We brought a single strand of 60m half rope. The 30m length is perfect to get over the initial steep section. The scramble along the ridge is amazingly nice and exposed and always easy. But we completely underestimated how tedious the scree descent from the ridge to Loch Leven would be.
gordonye - Jul 8, 2016 2:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015
SE Face
Climbed with Mike Chen, roped up for the 1st pitch and the knife ridge. Ran into solo climber who almost fell at the knife ridge. Overall moderate and fun! Saw Diggler's summit entry just a day before.
Fairweather - Oct 17, 2015 7:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2013
Complete West Ridge
Amazing long ridge climb that gets overlooked by the lines of people on the SE Face. Great climbing the whole way. Day hike from North Lake with Todd.
CameronGround - Sep 30, 2015 1:37 am Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2015
SE Face
Really fun route with a lot of variety and options, and just a ton of sustained scrambling up, up, up. Pretty incredible ratio of climbing to approach makes it really fast and convenient, although I kind of missed the feeling of remoteness you get with longer approaches. Down the SW chute after watching the sunset up top.
Donno - Sep 19, 2015 4:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2015
SE Face
12hrs C2C with Reza. Pitched first 50M then coiled rope & 3rd classed the rest. Trail boots & rock shoes. Two hr descent, summit to trail sucked.
Climbed up & down face in 2014. Had to turn around due to Rob's leg cramps. (alpine boots worked great).
Diggler - Aug 22, 2015 5:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2015
Great mountain & route!
via the waterfall route
Glad to escape to the mountains for a few times at least while on the East Side. Stoked to have found out & climbed this beautiful peak!
Started out from the pull-out at 6.17, arriving at the base of the route ~ 1 hour later. Route itself was quite fun! Really solid (for alpine, at any rate) rock, good exposure in a number of locations, & superb setting!
Summited at 10.04, & just hung out, soaking in the views, for a while. Great views of 2 of Bishop's Big Three, namely Humphreys & Tom, as well as the Evolutions (I'll make it there one of these days...). Cool (different!) views of the Palisades.
Took off from the summit 10.54, I think. Got back to the car 13.45ish.
Splendid morning/early afternoon. Blessed to be in the Eastern Sierra (& especially right before the wildfires hit, filling the whole area with smoke... Appreciate the present!).
rockcarl - Jul 14, 2015 12:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2015
SE Face
w/ Robert. So much fun, especially the exposed cruising along the ridge! Got a bit freaked by the idea of soloing some of the 5th class stuff, but it wasn't that bad once I got on it. Thanks Robert for motivating me through it! A bit of a slog for the descent, but let's not talk about that...
LincolnB - Aug 19, 2014 6:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2014
Too loose
Tried following Secor's description for the South Slope route, but turned back a few hundred feet from the summit -- too steep and loose for my comfort.
mengbo - Aug 18, 2014 1:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014
south slopes
solo hike. 6.5 hours car to car. saw another solo coming up when going down.
slagerjon - Jan 24, 2014 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2013
SE Face Fun
Climbed via SE face in January! No strings attached. Chimney conditions weren't exactly optimal but very secure nonetheless. Very fun route, main chute was full of snow and ice so we just stuck to the slabs and face, made our way to the first gendarme and hit the ridge. Ridgeline is phenomenal! Great views, great weather and great friends, sent with Joseph French and El Swan.
Andinistaloco - Jul 15, 2022 9:21 am
Fun dayClimbed with Hugh de Q and Jim M. Cool scramble.
kleberr - Jun 14, 2022 2:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2015
SE face pleasureAs advertised - a great climb. Roped up for the first pitch and struggled a bit due to the wet rock and the backpack. We solo'ed the rest of the climb, very enjoyable cl 3/4 climbing in solid rock. Missed the traverse into the chute that leads to the notch on the ridge and added some more cl 5 climbing to the route. The final pitches on the ridge to the summit are great.
Quick descent via a scree chute to the trail.
Romain - Jul 17, 2020 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2020
SE FaceWith my son Simon (14 years old). This is great climb - with some steep 5.4 at the beginning, solid 4th class after that, a decent 3rd class gully climb and a spectacular ridge to a great summit to top all that off. Trip report
sierra_summit_runner - Jun 10, 2019 11:00 am Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2019
Waterfall RouteSolo Waterfall Route ascent, full-on winter conditions in mid June!
CWessels - Jun 28, 2018 12:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2018
West RidgeThe west face was a fairly loose and not particularly enjoyable slog. But the ridge itself was good fun. If you stick to the very crest of the ridge, it is mostly class 3. It only gets to class 4+ when you're very close to the summit. Stick to the top of the ridge as much as possible for the best climbing.
jdmorehouse - Aug 7, 2017 7:00 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2017
TranscendentalUp the south face. Climbed Thoreau (aka peak 12,691') the day before.
Bucky Alpine - Oct 26, 2016 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2016
Bit of an EpicClimbed in a party of 3 and got hit by a random snow storm half way up the SE Face. We finally turned back on the ridge due to icy conditions and temps in the 20s. That led to 9 hours of sketchy downclimbing and rappelling into the night on wet rock. Good times. We left two cams in the low-angle chimney on pitch 2 Will pay return shipping and beers if anyone can get them out!
theflyingmountaineer - Oct 2, 2016 9:37 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2016
Via SE FaceEPIC route w/ Amy. Roped up for two pitches then soloed the rest. Amazing exposure on the ridge.
Tullymt - Aug 10, 2016 1:54 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016
SE FaceSoloed the route. Beautiful day
oliverkalt - Jul 28, 2016 10:42 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2016
SE faceWe brought a single strand of 60m half rope. The 30m length is perfect to get over the initial steep section. The scramble along the ridge is amazingly nice and exposed and always easy. But we completely underestimated how tedious the scree descent from the ridge to Loch Leven would be.
gordonye - Jul 8, 2016 2:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015
SE FaceClimbed with Mike Chen, roped up for the 1st pitch and the knife ridge. Ran into solo climber who almost fell at the knife ridge. Overall moderate and fun! Saw Diggler's summit entry just a day before.
Fairweather - Oct 17, 2015 7:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2013
Complete West RidgeAmazing long ridge climb that gets overlooked by the lines of people on the SE Face. Great climbing the whole way. Day hike from North Lake with Todd.
CameronGround - Sep 30, 2015 1:37 am Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2015
SE FaceReally fun route with a lot of variety and options, and just a ton of sustained scrambling up, up, up. Pretty incredible ratio of climbing to approach makes it really fast and convenient, although I kind of missed the feeling of remoteness you get with longer approaches. Down the SW chute after watching the sunset up top.
Donno - Sep 19, 2015 4:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2015
SE Face12hrs C2C with Reza. Pitched first 50M then coiled rope & 3rd classed the rest. Trail boots & rock shoes. Two hr descent, summit to trail sucked.
Climbed up & down face in 2014. Had to turn around due to Rob's leg cramps. (alpine boots worked great).
Diggler - Aug 22, 2015 5:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2015
Great mountain & route!via the waterfall route
Glad to escape to the mountains for a few times at least while on the East Side. Stoked to have found out & climbed this beautiful peak!
Started out from the pull-out at 6.17, arriving at the base of the route ~ 1 hour later. Route itself was quite fun! Really solid (for alpine, at any rate) rock, good exposure in a number of locations, & superb setting!
Summited at 10.04, & just hung out, soaking in the views, for a while. Great views of 2 of Bishop's Big Three, namely Humphreys & Tom, as well as the Evolutions (I'll make it there one of these days...). Cool (different!) views of the Palisades.
Took off from the summit 10.54, I think. Got back to the car 13.45ish.
Splendid morning/early afternoon. Blessed to be in the Eastern Sierra (& especially right before the wildfires hit, filling the whole area with smoke... Appreciate the present!).
rockcarl - Jul 14, 2015 12:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2015
SE Facew/ Robert. So much fun, especially the exposed cruising along the ridge! Got a bit freaked by the idea of soloing some of the 5th class stuff, but it wasn't that bad once I got on it. Thanks Robert for motivating me through it! A bit of a slog for the descent, but let's not talk about that...
bechtt - Apr 25, 2015 5:30 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013
SE Couloir ascentWith Laura and Deb.
LincolnB - Aug 19, 2014 6:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2014
Too looseTried following Secor's description for the South Slope route, but turned back a few hundred feet from the summit -- too steep and loose for my comfort.
mengbo - Aug 18, 2014 1:09 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014
south slopessolo hike. 6.5 hours car to car. saw another solo coming up when going down.
slagerjon - Jan 24, 2014 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2013
SE Face FunClimbed via SE face in January! No strings attached. Chimney conditions weren't exactly optimal but very secure nonetheless. Very fun route, main chute was full of snow and ice so we just stuck to the slabs and face, made our way to the first gendarme and hit the ridge. Ridgeline is phenomenal! Great views, great weather and great friends, sent with Joseph French and El Swan.