Over from Huxley on the way out after a long weekend in Ionian Basin. Climbed up the scree slope to the saddle with Wallace, then followed the south ridge straight to the summit. Easy to follow and I really enjoyed the route here, all the way to the summit. Descended more ledges straight down to the lake to the southeast and hiked out.
tb00957 - Aug 25, 2011 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2011
from haeckel-wallace col
snow made it interesting.
bc44caesar - Aug 22, 2011 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011
Northwest Arete
Solo day trip, 5 hrs to summit. Used crampons to get to the col, but the snow was fairly soft. Started up the wrong ridge, climbed some in the gully, and finally got on the NW Arete. Downclimbing the arete was probably as fun as climbing up it though. Discovered on the way back that traversing the lake-shore on either side of Hungry Packer is not possible. I highly recommend the route!
This route was awesome!! I definitely understand the 100 Classics standing. The route is typical Sierra 4th, meaning you can choose any number of ways between 4th and mid 5th. I skirted across the snow field kinda high and hit some harder rock (5.6ish), so I think staying low by the lake and then coming up the gully to the notch would alleviate having to climb that harder terrain.
Climber Dave - Aug 31, 2009 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2009
Wallace Haeckel traverse
Part 2 of Wallace Haeckel traverse. Route looks pretty loose and crappy from down low, but the traverse and the final climb up Haeckel was the best part of the day. Really fun scrambling up to the summit block. Not nearly as bad as it looks, much better than the slopes around Wallace.
bechtt - Aug 14, 2009 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
Traverse
From Picture Peak and Hungry Packer Peak. On to Wallace -- Day 3 of the 2009 Sierra Challenge.
boyblue - Aug 12, 2009 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 1988
South Ridge Solo
A fun route. The chimney just below the summit was my favorite part. The long painful march back to the TH at Sabrina that evening: Not so much fun, but part of the game, right?
Traverse from Peak 13,332. Climbed up one of the crack system on the headwall to make it interesting. Left too late to do Wallace as well.
dshoshone - Oct 17, 2007 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007
East face
Climbed peak 13,380 from Midnight lake first,I highly recommend the class 3-4 north ridge. Then on to Haeckel,very easy compared to 13,380.
bearbnz - Oct 3, 2007 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2007
NW Arete - Not
Hiked in with the intention of climbing the NW Arete, but the approach was choked with steep, brittle ice, and we had only aluminum crampons and mountaineering axes, so the approach was out of our league. Climbed the north ridge for a bit, then traversed over to the east ridge, and scrambled up from there.
XC Champ - Jul 27, 2007 1:16 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2006
Seeing that snow was icy leading up to the NW arete and that we hadn't any crampons we instead headed up the moraine to the third arete on the left and went up nice class 4 ledgges to meet the east arete route, then, to the summit. Great climb with the German wife on a peak named for her fellow countryman.
Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:40 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2007
Route Climbed: Traverse from Mt Wallace Date Climbed: 9/24/05
A very enjoyable scramble, though a dusting of snow along the ridge made is spicier than it should have been. Tried to down climb the SE Face, a mistake. It is a nasty maze of class 4-5 chutes and cliffs. Recommend traversing toward the S ridge before heading down into the cirque.
Fun climb. A little looser in spots than I was expecting, but not bad. Perfect weather while climbing, but a few hours later it was overcast and thundering. Ironic that our register entry reads "Not a cloud in the sky".
Route Climbed: East Ridge / South Face Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2004
Pretty easy scramble if you keep to the left, mostly just sandy ledges up to a short class 3 summit block. (Mt. Wallace was much harder!) Airy summit with some nice views.
mrchad9 - Sep 6, 2011 3:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2011
Ledges Ledges Ledges...Over from Huxley on the way out after a long weekend in Ionian Basin. Climbed up the scree slope to the saddle with Wallace, then followed the south ridge straight to the summit. Easy to follow and I really enjoyed the route here, all the way to the summit. Descended more ledges straight down to the lake to the southeast and hiked out.
tb00957 - Aug 25, 2011 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2011
from haeckel-wallace colsnow made it interesting.
bc44caesar - Aug 22, 2011 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011
Northwest AreteSolo day trip, 5 hrs to summit. Used crampons to get to the col, but the snow was fairly soft. Started up the wrong ridge, climbed some in the gully, and finally got on the NW Arete. Downclimbing the arete was probably as fun as climbing up it though. Discovered on the way back that traversing the lake-shore on either side of Hungry Packer is not possible. I highly recommend the route!
fatdad - Jun 24, 2011 8:23 pm
NW AreteSoloed this from Hungry Packer a good 20 years ago, descending the E. Ridge. A great day in the mountains.
Daria - Aug 20, 2010 11:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2010
Haeckel/Wallace traverseClass 4, with a 5th class crux move. Day hike traverse to Wallace afterward. Beware of dangerous sliding boulders in the area
A-Lex - Nov 24, 2009 12:39 pm
NW AreteThis route was awesome!! I definitely understand the 100 Classics standing. The route is typical Sierra 4th, meaning you can choose any number of ways between 4th and mid 5th. I skirted across the snow field kinda high and hit some harder rock (5.6ish), so I think staying low by the lake and then coming up the gully to the notch would alleviate having to climb that harder terrain.
seano - Sep 1, 2009 9:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2009
From WallaceMostly class 2.
Climber Dave - Aug 31, 2009 5:01 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2009
Wallace Haeckel traversePart 2 of Wallace Haeckel traverse. Route looks pretty loose and crappy from down low, but the traverse and the final climb up Haeckel was the best part of the day. Really fun scrambling up to the summit block. Not nearly as bad as it looks, much better than the slopes around Wallace.
bechtt - Aug 14, 2009 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
TraverseFrom Picture Peak and Hungry Packer Peak. On to Wallace -- Day 3 of the 2009 Sierra Challenge.
boyblue - Aug 12, 2009 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 1988
South Ridge SoloA fun route. The chimney just below the summit was my favorite part. The long painful march back to the TH at Sabrina that evening: Not so much fun, but part of the game, right?
fossana - Jul 3, 2008 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2008
traverse from 13,332Traverse from Peak 13,332. Climbed up one of the crack system on the headwall to make it interesting. Left too late to do Wallace as well.
dshoshone - Oct 17, 2007 5:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007
East faceClimbed peak 13,380 from Midnight lake first,I highly recommend the class 3-4 north ridge. Then on to Haeckel,very easy compared to 13,380.
bearbnz - Oct 3, 2007 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2007
NW Arete - NotHiked in with the intention of climbing the NW Arete, but the approach was choked with steep, brittle ice, and we had only aluminum crampons and mountaineering axes, so the approach was out of our league. Climbed the north ridge for a bit, then traversed over to the east ridge, and scrambled up from there.
XC Champ - Jul 27, 2007 1:16 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2006
South Ridge; Out of EchoWhish I could do this everyday
plume - Jul 2, 2007 3:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007
Northeast face to ridgeSeeing that snow was icy leading up to the NW arete and that we hadn't any crampons we instead headed up the moraine to the third arete on the left and went up nice class 4 ledgges to meet the east arete route, then, to the summit. Great climb with the German wife on a peak named for her fellow countryman.
Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:40 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2007
South Ridge from Hungry Packer lakeGreat view!
thebeave7 - Nov 15, 2005 1:17 pm
Route Climbed: Traverse from Mt Wallace Date Climbed: 9/24/05A very enjoyable scramble, though a dusting of snow along the ridge made is spicier than it should have been. Tried to down climb the SE Face, a mistake. It is a nasty maze of class 4-5 chutes and cliffs. Recommend traversing toward the S ridge before heading down into the cirque.
ExploreABitMore - Aug 14, 2005 12:46 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: 08/14/05Fun climb. A little looser in spots than I was expecting, but not bad. Perfect weather while climbing, but a few hours later it was overcast and thundering. Ironic that our register entry reads "Not a cloud in the sky".
Matthew Holliman - Nov 17, 2004 9:13 pm
Route Climbed: East Ridge / South Face Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2004Pretty easy scramble if you keep to the left, mostly just sandy ledges up to a short class 3 summit block. (Mt. Wallace was much harder!) Airy summit with some nice views.
Bob Burd - Oct 20, 2004 12:20 am
Route Climbed: East Ridge / South Face Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2004Day five of the 2004 Sierra Challenge, climbed with Mark, Michael and Matthew. Traversed over to Mt. Wallace and back via Echo Lake. Trip Report