Mount Humphreys Climber's Log : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Mount Humphreys Climber's Log

mrchad9 - Aug 1, 2011 1:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

Southwest Chute

An excellent solo trip up the southwest chutes and NW face. Near the chockstone I cut left and went up the next chute/ridge over. Fairly solid footing and even some good class 3 climbing up to the notch, then the highlights from there to the summit. Somewhat sunny on top but started hailing on the way down.

Dow Williams - Jun 29, 2011 12:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2011

Mount Humphreys

Full East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek.

Vitaliy M. - Jun 19, 2011 2:21 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011

Winter ascent

With Mark. Full east arete 5.5. Cool classic line

PellucidWombat - Feb 14, 2011 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011

Full East Arete in Winter

Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.

Climber Dave - Feb 2, 2011 1:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010

Freezing Winds on the Southwest Slope

Climbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete.

PlanIt - Jan 28, 2011 12:49 pm

Long walk in God's country

Postholed in and soloed until a slide in a northfacing couloir almost killed me just below the summit of 13,123. Climbed up and over shaking and a little bloody. No harm done, lesson learned.

gordonye - Sep 7, 2010 1:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010

SW side

Climbed with Hakan from Marmot Lake, belayed one pitch of class 4 (above the platform). The climb looked intimidating from the adjacent ridge above the notch, but it was a mellow one. We descended into a different gully based on a tip from climbers we met at the notch. Ended up making a 4th class traverse out of a lower gully, the traverse was over ledges covered with lots of loose rock. All in all a great day, we had the whole Humphreys basin to ourselves.

Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008

Great climb

Great summit, fun 4th class route

kraymes - May 22, 2010 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 1991

East Arete

I really loved this route. I think more than anything is that I had the most vivid dreams of my life on the bivy.

Tom Kenney - Oct 24, 2009 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009

Nice Birthday Gift

Great climb! Very thrilling. Thanks, Sean.

sardude - Sep 23, 2009 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2003

Did it

100th anniversary climb

Augie Medina - Aug 30, 2009 8:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

Nice 3d and 4th Class

Did day hike via SW Slope/NW Face. Very nice scrambling up from the little notch about 600 feet below the summit. But didn't care for the loose scree chutes below the notch.

seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009

Normal route

Alternate for 2009 Sierra Challenge. Good: took the middle of 3 main chutes to do more class 3 and less scree slogging. Bad: traversed too far right on final class 4 ridge, wasting time.

WML - Jul 30, 2009 1:52 am Date Climbed: May 14, 2009

North Couloir Direct

Topped out on the couloir for a snowboard descent. Mountaineering boots in snowboard bindings = bad decisions. Decided against climbing to the summit to bag it, as we planned to summit the next day VIA the East Arete. I got injured on the way down and that never occurred. Will be back to get this one FOR SURE.

TheRootster - Jun 21, 2009 1:14 pm

East Arete Bail-out

This one got away. Climbing with Carter and a friend of hers. Going up to the first notch, we were fanned out across the width of the slope but at various levels of vertical. Friend, in the lead above, dislodged a small rock which sped toward Carter at warp speed. It missed her head but knicked her hand. We continued up to the notch, where Carter decided she had had enough. Friend and I continued, soon breaking out the rope. I led up some fourth or easy fifth class to a large belay "ledge" and was belaying Friend up when I shifted my weight a bit and the whole massive ledge rocked! It was one enormous loose, flat boulder. I shouted down to friend to reverse course and we beat a hasty retreat, tails between legs.