Desert Solitaire - Sep 29, 2006 2:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2006
Only the East side of this peak is interesting
McAdie-Mallory-Irvine loop from Consultation Lake. Total RT time: 11 hrs, 30 min after much routefinding mistakes on the traverse to Mallory. Secor has a warning about descending from the West side: "warning: as a descent route, this gully is impossible to find" - well, whaddaya know - I had no beta on the descent and was lucky enough to find this gully! Next time will climb the awesome looking E. Buttress.
Route Climbed: East Buttress V, 5.9 Date Climbed: 8-26-05
I thought this was just an OK route. Nice and long, but not sustained and not particularly great rock. I would also add that its more a grade IV than V. The approach is also more like 6 or 7 miles and not even close to the 3.5 Secor lists. Great views from an uninspiring summit. 14 hrs car to car.
Route Climbed: NE Ridge (ascent) / SW Ridge (descent) Date Climbed: July 3, 2005
Dayhike out of the Meysan Lakes TH, continuing on to McAdie and returning via the Whitney trail. Carried axe and crampons, but never used them all day. Irvine's NE Ridge was an easy but surprisingly enjoyable scramble, with some outstanding views in a truly beautiful area.
Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: July 2, 2005
The Meyson Lakes trail is now my favorite trail in the Sierra; probably one of my favorite places to camp except for all the mosquitoes. There was lots of snow left up there from this last winter making for an fun trip up the couloir and great views of the surrounding peaks from the top.
Route Climbed: From Arc Pass Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004
Day 9 of the 2004 Sierra Challenge, climbed McAdie with Michael and Michelle, then went on to Irvine with Michael, 8h40m RT from Whitney Portal. Trip Report
Route Climbed: East Chute Date Climbed: March 20, 2004
First one up for the new year. The snow in the chute was perfect for climbing on and made a great glissade on the way down. Had a great and lonely view from the summit.
Route Climbed: NW face from Arc Pass Date Climbed: September 18, 1999
Spent rthe better part of a day trying to figure out a way up the NW face from Arc Pass but finally gave up. Lots of fun scrambling, but no summit. In retrospect, should have gone up McAdie.
Route Climbed: South slope via Mallory's Northwest ridge Date Climbed: August 29th, 2003
After the fun class 3 down climb off Mallory's Northwest ridge I was forced to chug my way up the South slope, which is slippery and oh so tiring. Irvine was the last peak on my traverse from Corcoran.
Route Climbed: East Buttress V, 5.9 Date Climbed: August 24,25 1987
Gerry Cox and I climbed this long, mountaineering, and in the 1st RJ Secor's Edition, somewhat underrated route (III,5.7) in 1987. We found 17 pitches with at least some 5.9 climbing, 400 feet of 4th class on the upper buttress, and ton of 3rd/4th scrambling on the summit ridge. Greg Vernon later said, haven't you guys climbed any other Al Greene routes? These guys were known for sandbagging! Really? Anyway, this is a decent mountaineering line (with fairly short approach), especially if you can climb all these pitches in one day and descent the snow gully before it gets firm (IV+ or V,5.9).
Desert Solitaire - Sep 29, 2006 2:44 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2006
Only the East side of this peak is interestingMcAdie-Mallory-Irvine loop from Consultation Lake. Total RT time: 11 hrs, 30 min after much routefinding mistakes on the traverse to Mallory. Secor has a warning about descending from the West side: "warning: as a descent route, this gully is impossible to find" - well, whaddaya know - I had no beta on the descent and was lucky enough to find this gully! Next time will climb the awesome looking E. Buttress.
bechtt - Oct 2, 2005 9:07 pm
Route Climbed: NE Ridge (ascent) / SW Ridge (descent) Date Climbed: 1 Oct 05Perfect day -- more snow than expected. Easy climb to NE ridge from Camp Lake (Meysan Basin) than Class 2 to the top (dodging the deep snow drifts)
Al - Sep 28, 2005 12:00 am
Route Climbed: East Coulior Date Climbed: Jul 2, 05Good day. Irvine & Mallory from Meysan Lake.
tiogap - Sep 8, 2005 10:46 pm
Route Climbed: Meysan Lakes Date Climbed: August, 1980climbed it in conjuction with Mallory
aleasure - Aug 29, 2005 6:49 pm
Route Climbed: East Buttress V, 5.9 Date Climbed: 8-26-05I thought this was just an OK route. Nice and long, but not sustained and not particularly great rock. I would also add that its more a grade IV than V. The approach is also more like 6 or 7 miles and not even close to the 3.5 Secor lists. Great views from an uninspiring summit. 14 hrs car to car.
Matthew Holliman - Jul 20, 2005 11:08 pm
Route Climbed: NE Ridge (ascent) / SW Ridge (descent) Date Climbed: July 3, 2005Dayhike out of the Meysan Lakes TH, continuing on to McAdie and returning via the Whitney trail. Carried axe and crampons, but never used them all day. Irvine's NE Ridge was an easy but surprisingly enjoyable scramble, with some outstanding views in a truly beautiful area.
physics - Jul 4, 2005 12:54 am
Route Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: July 2, 2005The Meyson Lakes trail is now my favorite trail in the Sierra; probably one of my favorite places to camp except for all the mosquitoes. There was lots of snow left up there from this last winter making for an fun trip up the couloir and great views of the surrounding peaks from the top.
awagher - Jun 25, 2005 10:15 pm
Route Climbed: North West Ridge (from Whitney trail/Consulation Lake) Date Climbed: June 24th, 2005Interesting and windy class 3 scramble. From Outpost Camp to summit and back in 5 hrs.
Bob Burd - Nov 19, 2004 6:15 pm
Route Climbed: From Arc Pass Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004Day 9 of the 2004 Sierra Challenge, climbed McAdie with Michael and Michelle, then went on to Irvine with Michael, 8h40m RT from Whitney Portal. Trip Report
Completebum - Mar 21, 2004 2:46 pm
Route Climbed: East Chute Date Climbed: March 20, 2004First one up for the new year. The snow in the chute was perfect for climbing on and made a great glissade on the way down. Had a great and lonely view from the summit.
crag - Jan 23, 2004 1:33 pm
Route Climbed: NW face from Arc Pass Date Climbed: September 18, 1999Spent rthe better part of a day trying to figure out a way up the NW face from Arc Pass but finally gave up. Lots of fun scrambling, but no summit. In retrospect, should have gone up McAdie.
Rob - Jan 18, 2004 4:47 am
Route Climbed: W. Face from meysan lake trail Date Climbed: 1993nice
thebeave7 - Aug 30, 2003 7:42 pm
Route Climbed: South slope via Mallory's Northwest ridge Date Climbed: August 29th, 2003After the fun class 3 down climb off Mallory's Northwest ridge I was forced to chug my way up the South slope, which is slippery and oh so tiring. Irvine was the last peak on my traverse from Corcoran.
asmrz - Nov 20, 2002 10:11 pm
Route Climbed: East Buttress V, 5.9 Date Climbed: August 24,25 1987Gerry Cox and I climbed this long, mountaineering, and in the 1st RJ Secor's Edition, somewhat underrated route (III,5.7) in 1987. We found 17 pitches with at least some 5.9 climbing, 400 feet of 4th class on the upper buttress, and ton of 3rd/4th scrambling on the summit ridge. Greg Vernon later said, haven't you guys climbed any other Al Greene routes? These guys were known for sandbagging! Really? Anyway, this is a decent mountaineering line (with fairly short approach), especially if you can climb all these pitches in one day and descent the snow gully before it gets firm (IV+ or V,5.9).
Dave K - Nov 20, 2002 12:39 am
Route Climbed: East Chute Date Climbed: September 2000Nice view from the top.