Rasgoat...If you could do it in 6 hrs you could join better parties on the DSB route.
Dirks always wanted to do it...
pull hard
b. - Jul 9, 2007 1:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007
Direct South Buttress to the Summit!
We climbed the DSB rock route in just over 6 hours, then it took another 6 hours to hit the bivy site at the base of the upper ridge. After a warm open bivy on the ledge, we set out simul-climbing and summited at about 2:30. Back at camp under the route at 9:30 that night. 40 hours round-trip! Finished off with a dip in String Lake with the throngs of people escaping the heat. We never saw another person on the mountain. Sublime experience.
rasgoat - Jul 9, 2007 12:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2007
Yeaaahhhh!
What an astounding mountain! Better than I expected, the features of the mountain just got better as we climbed!
We did CMC route.
My only complaint is that the technical pitches were short and there was not alot of sustained climbing, although the face looks steep, there is alot of exposed class four.
We saw nobody the entire three days.
None the less, this mountain ROCKS! I loved every minute and Moran does not let down.
July 1994...didn't summit but I'll be back....weather and time against us
Update: Summitted June 18, 2007 via CMC......love this mountain
patascent - Feb 11, 2007 4:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2000
CMC
If you plan to spend some time in the Teton's put this climb on the top of the list.
Thomas Beasley - Aug 14, 2006 6:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2006
East Ridge
Hit or Miss Crew's thrid attempt. In short it was a comedy of errors. While we did not make it to the summit, I scrambled to the top of the East Horn while searching for a missing member of the team.
Thomas Beasley - Aug 14, 2006 6:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2005
East Ridge
Hit or Miss Crew's second attempt at Moran. The idea was for a one day assault. Paddled out late to the camp sites on Leigh lake. Massive storm blew in over night and lasted until 8am. I thought it was too late of a start and that the skillet would be way to sketch because of the storm. After some deliberation and a half hearted attempt, we tunred back and spent the day on the lake.
Thomas Beasley - Aug 14, 2006 6:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2005
East Ridge
First attempt at climbing the beast. Hit or Miss Crew. The paddle took forever because of high winds and lack of experience on the rest of the team. Weather turned bad, tried to wait it out at the bottom. Thunderstorms rolled in on the hike to the horns. Had to turn back, paddled to the shore to the right and came upon some acquaintances from town. They gave us a tent, steak, chicken, vegies, and got us drunk on wine and whiskey. We gave them some of our Clif Bars for breakfast. Paddled back the next morning due to hang overs.
T Sharp - Aug 6, 2006 12:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2006
Mount Moran
Nasty weather on summit day! We will try it again!
SawtoothSean - Dec 30, 2005 9:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2002
Route Climbed: CMC Route - 5.6 Date Climbed: September 28,2002
Long day- took inflatible boat across 2 lakes with portage. Then steep hiking up and over DrizzlePus before the roped up climbing began. We Simul-Climbed most of it since it was easy going. Very large and flat summit. Great mountain to escape the crowds- saw no one.
Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: Aug 1995 and Aug 2002
The best moderate route in the Tetons. Both times I hiked around the north side of Leigh Lake instead of paddling across. The hike is a bushwack, but not as bad as some would have you believe.
Route Climbed: Direct South Buttress Date Climbed: August 21, 2005
Didn't have time to go to the summit. This was a consolation prize for getting iced off of the North Face of the Grand by a storm last week. The climbing wasn't as good as some of the other classics I've done, but the setting was unrivaled. The hand traverse finish was pretty spectacular. 12 rappels down the SB Right route was a long end to the day. Not as long as a summit push, though!
Fun climb. Great campsite except for the forgotten stove pump. Dry ramen for dinner and gu for breakfast really hit the spot. There are some good variations on the route for a little harder climbing. Good rappels on the descent along the ridge. Stash some beers in the creek and go for a swim when you get back down to the lake.
Route Climbed: Skillet Date Climbed: July 15, 2005
incredibly challenging... ALL elements of the climb... getting across Jackson Lake would have been a 3-4 hour canoe ride for starters (about 8 miles across), luckily we took a boat (still took us an hour in a damn motor boat!)... arrived on shore about 8a.m. and began the ascend thru the forest (looking desperately for a trail... ANY trail) very... let me stress VERY overgrown. MAJOR bush-wacking... which took us about 2 1/2 hours and 10,000 bug bites (it did help to wear spray... but at times I thought it did nothing but attract MORE)... reached the bolder field about 10:30 and began the ankle twisting... seriously... if you can traverse this without damaging your ankle or knee... ALL the power to you... with NO trail (or a very poorly groomed... as in... no-one was there in a LONG time) meant seriously unstable rocks under each step forward (of course the 60 pounds on your back helps)... about 2:00 p.m we reached the high camp at the base opf the snow field (bottom of the glacier)... luckily without one BEAR encounter (however we did have BEAR spray... and it is a MUST along with LOTS of yelling every 5 seconds (no shit)). Once at camp we checked out the snow conditions and before long were asleep or trying to by 6:00 p.m....
Up at 3:00 a.m. breakfast (beautiful morning... but wished we would have gotten on the mountain at 3:00... not 4:30 after sitting around at breakfast toooooo long)
This meant sunrise about 45 minutes into the climb and it heated up FAST... we were not even to the middle rock formation when it was about 70... soon 80... then (mid climb) 90 degrees... we were boiling and so was the snow.
Getting past the middle crevasse about 10,500 was cool as we got to climb thru a (very wet) waterfall coming off the middle rock formation... climbing with crampons was difficult (protection necessary).
At this point the climb goes from 40-50 degrees to 50-60... which means FALLING equals DEATH... very serious shit. As a fall above the skillet (above the middle rock formation... which serves as a nice 50 foot cliff in the middle of the mountain) is NOT something you want to think about!
After an 90 minutes... we reached the HIGH handle of the skillet (about 1000 feet from the summit) and MORE rock climbing with crampons... only this time the stakes were TRIPLE times a MILLION for error. At this slope (with the cliff about 1500 feet south... which you would slide to in about 40 seconds... going about 100 miles an hour and then FLY off like olympic ski jumping to a certain PAINful DEATH.
At this point the snow was so HOT - it was like carpet... it's top layer (about 3-6 inches deep) sliding on EVERY STEP... which meant MAJOR KIcking on EVERY step... which is NOT very easy at 55 degrees...
We packed it in about this point AFTER we climbed AROUND the LAST ROCK formation (scary ROCK climbing in crampons around a near vertical corner)... we trailed up this for about 15 minutes (more 55 degrees) but the snow sucked so bad... we called it around 12:30 because it was only going to get hotter as the day went on... we had about an hour (or less to summit)
The down climbing was terrible... every step (even HARD kicking in) were moments of terror mixed with (often yells of) "FALLING"
Lots of FUN!
We reached camp at about 3:30 packed up and headed out for a VERY very very long walk to the canoe (luckily BOAT)... avoided the BEARS, most of the BUGS and no ankle injuries...
for a novice (someone never climbing a mountain in my life... did spend a few days on Blanc - which was a cake walk with steps compared to this fun) it was a serious challenge...
I'm sure for an expert (or even intermediate) it would have been a great climb (however our guide... and he was a WORLD class guide) was DAMN glad to get off that snow at 12,000... I think I heard him say... "yes... good decision... good fucking decision... we are very lucky... yes very good decision!"
the best alpine approach ever, although renting the Kayak could have been easier had the Guy actually been at the shop!
Anyway - Great approach via water - got to see a lot of wild life!
For me the hardest part of the climb was the hike! kicked my butt - did it, but did it slow!
The camp site was perfect - a HUGE storm blew up around us and we we sheltered from it all, and afterwards we got to look DOWN on a rainbow - amazing. The summit day was uneventful - but I didnt' want to get off the climb - wish i could have climbed down!! I would go up there every day - if there was a way to NOT have to walk back down. . thank goodness we took treking poles. . saved my butt many-a-time!
All in all - LOVED IT - first peak in the Tetons. . but I will be back for more! (check out the whole story on our web page www.teamarp.com)
Amazing, remote route on quality Teton granite. Deservedly one of the "50 Classics." Didn't go for the summit due to lack of water (see my TR in this section). Climbed with my good friend and favorite climbing partner, Scott Perkins.
seth@LOKI - Jul 9, 2007 7:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2007
Classic ModerateRasgoat...If you could do it in 6 hrs you could join better parties on the DSB route.
Dirks always wanted to do it...
pull hard
b. - Jul 9, 2007 1:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007
Direct South Buttress to the Summit!We climbed the DSB rock route in just over 6 hours, then it took another 6 hours to hit the bivy site at the base of the upper ridge. After a warm open bivy on the ledge, we set out simul-climbing and summited at about 2:30. Back at camp under the route at 9:30 that night. 40 hours round-trip! Finished off with a dip in String Lake with the throngs of people escaping the heat. We never saw another person on the mountain. Sublime experience.
rasgoat - Jul 9, 2007 12:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2007
Yeaaahhhh!What an astounding mountain! Better than I expected, the features of the mountain just got better as we climbed!
We did CMC route.
My only complaint is that the technical pitches were short and there was not alot of sustained climbing, although the face looks steep, there is alot of exposed class four.
We saw nobody the entire three days.
None the less, this mountain ROCKS! I loved every minute and Moran does not let down.
jvarholak - Feb 14, 2007 10:16 pm
love itJuly 1994...didn't summit but I'll be back....weather and time against us
Update: Summitted June 18, 2007 via CMC......love this mountain
patascent - Feb 11, 2007 4:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2000
CMCIf you plan to spend some time in the Teton's put this climb on the top of the list.
Thomas Beasley - Aug 14, 2006 6:48 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2006
East RidgeHit or Miss Crew's thrid attempt. In short it was a comedy of errors. While we did not make it to the summit, I scrambled to the top of the East Horn while searching for a missing member of the team.
Thomas Beasley - Aug 14, 2006 6:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2005
East RidgeHit or Miss Crew's second attempt at Moran. The idea was for a one day assault. Paddled out late to the camp sites on Leigh lake. Massive storm blew in over night and lasted until 8am. I thought it was too late of a start and that the skillet would be way to sketch because of the storm. After some deliberation and a half hearted attempt, we tunred back and spent the day on the lake.
Thomas Beasley - Aug 14, 2006 6:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2005
East RidgeFirst attempt at climbing the beast. Hit or Miss Crew. The paddle took forever because of high winds and lack of experience on the rest of the team. Weather turned bad, tried to wait it out at the bottom. Thunderstorms rolled in on the hike to the horns. Had to turn back, paddled to the shore to the right and came upon some acquaintances from town. They gave us a tent, steak, chicken, vegies, and got us drunk on wine and whiskey. We gave them some of our Clif Bars for breakfast. Paddled back the next morning due to hang overs.
T Sharp - Aug 6, 2006 12:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2006
Mount MoranNasty weather on summit day! We will try it again!
SawtoothSean - Dec 30, 2005 9:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2002
Route Climbed: CMC Route - 5.6 Date Climbed: September 28,2002Long day- took inflatible boat across 2 lakes with portage. Then steep hiking up and over DrizzlePus before the roped up climbing began. We Simul-Climbed most of it since it was easy going. Very large and flat summit. Great mountain to escape the crowds- saw no one.
edl - Sep 30, 2005 11:16 pm
Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: Aug 1995 and Aug 2002The best moderate route in the Tetons. Both times I hiked around the north side of Leigh Lake instead of paddling across. The hike is a bushwack, but not as bad as some would have you believe.
Hendere - Sep 11, 2005 10:36 pm
Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: September 5, 2005Climbed with Alan Ellis, Andy, and ATTM. Great partners, perfect weather, fun climb.
Andy - Sep 10, 2005 3:42 pm
Route Climbed: CMC Route Date Climbed: September 5, 2005Climbed with attm, alan, and Hendere. Read the trip report.
Alan Ellis - Sep 10, 2005 12:19 am
Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: September 5, 2005Climbed CMC with ATTM, Andy, and Hendere. Great day with great weather. Congrats to everyone for a nice climb.
b. - Aug 23, 2005 11:32 am
Route Climbed: Direct South Buttress Date Climbed: August 21, 2005Didn't have time to go to the summit. This was a consolation prize for getting iced off of the North Face of the Grand by a storm last week. The climbing wasn't as good as some of the other classics I've done, but the setting was unrivaled. The hand traverse finish was pretty spectacular. 12 rappels down the SB Right route was a long end to the day. Not as long as a summit push, though!
drewdaly - Aug 22, 2005 3:59 am
Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: August 12, 2005Fun climb. Great campsite except for the forgotten stove pump. Dry ramen for dinner and gu for breakfast really hit the spot. There are some good variations on the route for a little harder climbing. Good rappels on the descent along the ridge. Stash some beers in the creek and go for a swim when you get back down to the lake.
jimgioiosa - Jul 16, 2005 9:27 pm
Route Climbed: Skillet Date Climbed: July 15, 2005incredibly challenging... ALL elements of the climb... getting across Jackson Lake would have been a 3-4 hour canoe ride for starters (about 8 miles across), luckily we took a boat (still took us an hour in a damn motor boat!)... arrived on shore about 8a.m. and began the ascend thru the forest (looking desperately for a trail... ANY trail) very... let me stress VERY overgrown. MAJOR bush-wacking... which took us about 2 1/2 hours and 10,000 bug bites (it did help to wear spray... but at times I thought it did nothing but attract MORE)... reached the bolder field about 10:30 and began the ankle twisting... seriously... if you can traverse this without damaging your ankle or knee... ALL the power to you... with NO trail (or a very poorly groomed... as in... no-one was there in a LONG time) meant seriously unstable rocks under each step forward (of course the 60 pounds on your back helps)... about 2:00 p.m we reached the high camp at the base opf the snow field (bottom of the glacier)... luckily without one BEAR encounter (however we did have BEAR spray... and it is a MUST along with LOTS of yelling every 5 seconds (no shit)). Once at camp we checked out the snow conditions and before long were asleep or trying to by 6:00 p.m....
Up at 3:00 a.m. breakfast (beautiful morning... but wished we would have gotten on the mountain at 3:00... not 4:30 after sitting around at breakfast toooooo long)
This meant sunrise about 45 minutes into the climb and it heated up FAST... we were not even to the middle rock formation when it was about 70... soon 80... then (mid climb) 90 degrees... we were boiling and so was the snow.
Getting past the middle crevasse about 10,500 was cool as we got to climb thru a (very wet) waterfall coming off the middle rock formation... climbing with crampons was difficult (protection necessary).
At this point the climb goes from 40-50 degrees to 50-60... which means FALLING equals DEATH... very serious shit. As a fall above the skillet (above the middle rock formation... which serves as a nice 50 foot cliff in the middle of the mountain) is NOT something you want to think about!
After an 90 minutes... we reached the HIGH handle of the skillet (about 1000 feet from the summit) and MORE rock climbing with crampons... only this time the stakes were TRIPLE times a MILLION for error. At this slope (with the cliff about 1500 feet south... which you would slide to in about 40 seconds... going about 100 miles an hour and then FLY off like olympic ski jumping to a certain PAINful DEATH.
At this point the snow was so HOT - it was like carpet... it's top layer (about 3-6 inches deep) sliding on EVERY STEP... which meant MAJOR KIcking on EVERY step... which is NOT very easy at 55 degrees...
We packed it in about this point AFTER we climbed AROUND the LAST ROCK formation (scary ROCK climbing in crampons around a near vertical corner)... we trailed up this for about 15 minutes (more 55 degrees) but the snow sucked so bad... we called it around 12:30 because it was only going to get hotter as the day went on... we had about an hour (or less to summit)
The down climbing was terrible... every step (even HARD kicking in) were moments of terror mixed with (often yells of) "FALLING"
Lots of FUN!
We reached camp at about 3:30 packed up and headed out for a VERY very very long walk to the canoe (luckily BOAT)... avoided the BEARS, most of the BUGS and no ankle injuries...
for a novice (someone never climbing a mountain in my life... did spend a few days on Blanc - which was a cake walk with steps compared to this fun) it was a serious challenge...
I'm sure for an expert (or even intermediate) it would have been a great climb (however our guide... and he was a WORLD class guide) was DAMN glad to get off that snow at 12,000... I think I heard him say... "yes... good decision... good fucking decision... we are very lucky... yes very good decision!"
Jim Gioiosa
602-432-2699
jimgioiosa@softhome.net
AngelaA - Apr 15, 2005 3:59 pm
Route Climbed: CMC Date Climbed: July 2004the best alpine approach ever, although renting the Kayak could have been easier had the Guy actually been at the shop!
Anyway - Great approach via water - got to see a lot of wild life!
For me the hardest part of the climb was the hike! kicked my butt - did it, but did it slow!
The camp site was perfect - a HUGE storm blew up around us and we we sheltered from it all, and afterwards we got to look DOWN on a rainbow - amazing. The summit day was uneventful - but I didnt' want to get off the climb - wish i could have climbed down!! I would go up there every day - if there was a way to NOT have to walk back down. . thank goodness we took treking poles. . saved my butt many-a-time!
All in all - LOVED IT - first peak in the Tetons. . but I will be back for more! (check out the whole story on our web page www.teamarp.com)
nerdom - Apr 15, 2005 3:22 pm
Route Climbed: DSB Date Climbed: July 20-21, 2003Amazing, remote route on quality Teton granite. Deservedly one of the "50 Classics." Didn't go for the summit due to lack of water (see my TR in this section). Climbed with my good friend and favorite climbing partner, Scott Perkins.
dunsum - Apr 7, 2005 4:42 am
Route Climbed: Direct South Buttress to summit Date Climbed: July 26-29, 2001Awesome route ! In addition to being well worth the considerable effort, you get extra hardman points for taking this one to the summit.