Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 6 2005
Was part of Old Ickabod's team. His summit log is posted with detail a couple before mine. It was a much rougher day than I anticipated and very humling with the crevasse incident. Being dragged towards the crevasse was quite a rush, Wahoo!!! Our team did a good job pulling it together and reaching the summit. Thanks to my buddies for a great experience.
Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: June 11, 2005
Our enthusiasm was curbed somewhat by the news that a fellow climber had died on our planned ascent route (Gib Ledges). Rest in peace Mike, and may your friends and family find comfort.
We decided to do Ingraham instead. We found the going not technically difficult and route-finding was not a problem. However, it was physically strenuous (it is a big mountain). We reached the rim just after sun-rise expecting to be the only ones there, but a group of hardy Czechs were camped out in the crater!
Thanks to my partners Al and Pat, with extra thanks to Ed, who did most of the planning and led the entire climb.
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: 6/6/05
Spectacular feeling to reach the summit! As I led through the Ingraham Icefall, a snowbridge I was crossing collapsed and I plunged 30 feet before being arrested by my two team members (dragging one of them 10 feet toward the crevasse). I sustained no physical injuries, but I was rocked emotionally. They hauled me up with spectacular leadership from the RMI Guides that came up behind us. My nerves were shot, but my commitment to the team was strong. We continued cautiously with Kevin Wright leading and we summited after 9 hours. We retraced our steps from 13,000 to Camp Muir in a whiteout. 13 hours roundtrip with two spectacular teammates. It was a true life changing experience, but I learned a lot on the trip. Rainier is now a huge part of my life. Special thanks to Kenny Hays who self arrested the moment he saw me disappear into the crevasse and to Kevin Wright for setting the anchor and assisting in the rescue just as quick!
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 4 - 7, 2005
We successfully summitted; however, we had a couple near disasters including one crevasse rescue. Please see the trip report for details, and if you're considering this route this year, be hyper-vigilant and always ready for a crevasse rescue!
Route Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: 7/24/04
Summited on a very busy day. Difficult to attend to bodily functions on summit, as stage fright overcame me. Some nuts camping in crater, selling soft drinks and programs.
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: May 30-31, 2005
Began at 1am from Muir under perfect conditions. Light snow at 3am turned to full blown blizzard conditions at about 5am (13,200') so we had to turn back. ID route was in great shape but is expected to fall apart in the next couple of weeks.
Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: June 19, 2004
other than having to dig into 45 degree slope to camp before the summit, it's pretty similar to Disappointment Cleaver route (except a bit more technical and a few more Ice Falls to cross under.
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 25, 2001
Climbed with Andre. Day one to Muir in a whiteout with summit in question. Summit day alpine start under crystal clear skies. Cold, clear and windy on summit.
Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: March 2005
The initial plan was for Gibralter Ledges. After spending 2 nights at camp Muir waiting out the weather, we decided to do Ingraham Glacier Direct. Thanks to a short break in the weather we were off to the summit on the third day. The route was very challenging and heavily crevassed, way more difficult than the last time I was on it. Although I wanted a different route under my belt and was disappointed to not be able to do the Ledges, the trip was enjoyable and successful. Just something to look forward to in the future.
Ascending from Muir the moon was a eerie tint of red due to forrest fires in eastern Washington. Cheeseburgers at Copper Creek Inn on the way home never tasted so good.
Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: August 2003
My first climbing experience, guided by RMI. We turned around at the top of the icefall due to a tired group member. Rainier had a major impact on me, has been on my mind ever since. Recently moved from Ohio to Portland so that the mountains can be a regular part of my life, not a once a year climbing trip.
rblevins42 - Jun 20, 2005 10:54 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 15th, 2005Fantastic Climb - Clear weather, extremely cold on the summit. We summitted in our down parkas.
Gorman - Jun 15, 2005 3:22 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 9, 2002Picture perfect day for a summit. Blue skies as far as the eye could see.
alpine master - Jun 15, 2005 11:37 am
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 6 2005Was part of Old Ickabod's team. His summit log is posted with detail a couple before mine. It was a much rougher day than I anticipated and very humling with the crevasse incident. Being dragged towards the crevasse was quite a rush, Wahoo!!! Our team did a good job pulling it together and reaching the summit. Thanks to my buddies for a great experience.
Paul Burkholder - Jun 14, 2005 8:45 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: June 11, 2005Our enthusiasm was curbed somewhat by the news that a fellow climber had died on our planned ascent route (Gib Ledges). Rest in peace Mike, and may your friends and family find comfort.
We decided to do Ingraham instead. We found the going not technically difficult and route-finding was not a problem. However, it was physically strenuous (it is a big mountain). We reached the rim just after sun-rise expecting to be the only ones there, but a group of hardy Czechs were camped out in the crater!
Thanks to my partners Al and Pat, with extra thanks to Ed, who did most of the planning and led the entire climb.
Old Ickabod - Jun 12, 2005 6:40 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: 6/6/05Spectacular feeling to reach the summit! As I led through the Ingraham Icefall, a snowbridge I was crossing collapsed and I plunged 30 feet before being arrested by my two team members (dragging one of them 10 feet toward the crevasse). I sustained no physical injuries, but I was rocked emotionally. They hauled me up with spectacular leadership from the RMI Guides that came up behind us. My nerves were shot, but my commitment to the team was strong. We continued cautiously with Kevin Wright leading and we summited after 9 hours. We retraced our steps from 13,000 to Camp Muir in a whiteout. 13 hours roundtrip with two spectacular teammates. It was a true life changing experience, but I learned a lot on the trip. Rainier is now a huge part of my life. Special thanks to Kenny Hays who self arrested the moment he saw me disappear into the crevasse and to Kevin Wright for setting the anchor and assisting in the rescue just as quick!
K_G_Wright - Jun 10, 2005 2:06 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 4 - 7, 2005We successfully summitted; however, we had a couple near disasters including one crevasse rescue. Please see the trip report for details, and if you're considering this route this year, be hyper-vigilant and always ready for a crevasse rescue!
tmmpeterson - Jun 9, 2005 10:52 pm
Route Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: 7/24/04Summited on a very busy day. Difficult to attend to bodily functions on summit, as stage fright overcame me. Some nuts camping in crater, selling soft drinks and programs.
sufferjoy - Jun 7, 2005 10:28 am
Route Climbed: Ingraham direct Date Climbed: May 28, 2005Excellent weather: sun, almost no wind, warm, great visibility.
Photo-report: http://public.fotki.com/ASK1/rainier_2005
May 26: ascent from Paradise to Camp Muir (~6-7 hrs)
May 27: rest, play around
May 28: ascent to the top (~13 hrs round-trip; ~9 hrs up, and ~4 hrs down; started ascent at 2am, summited by 11 am)
May 29: rest, play, descent to Paradise
Team: Dmitry Eremin, Lev Gorenshtein, Anton Karnoup, Polina Savchenko, Serguei Pachtchenko, Vitaly Autin, Sergey Mikhailov.
kolbi2112 - Jun 6, 2005 3:59 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: May 30-31, 2005Began at 1am from Muir under perfect conditions. Light snow at 3am turned to full blown blizzard conditions at about 5am (13,200') so we had to turn back. ID route was in great shape but is expected to fall apart in the next couple of weeks.
mt_daydream - May 31, 2005 5:53 pm
Route Climbed: Gibraltar ledges Date Climbed: May 26-27, 2005Andreas (from Switzerland) and I climbed the Gibraltar ledges on Friday.
Had the mountain all to overselves with just one other team
going up the ID route. We got lost below the Gib rock on the way
up and wasted more than 1.5 hrs traversing some 55 degree snow
and ice (and traversing all that hard parts back:). Got back on route
and finished the technical part under perfect conditions. Andreas was
feeling tired and hence we decided to turn back once we could
access the gentle upper slopes. The ID route was way on the right
side and there were a lot of crevasses in between. So we decided to
go up all the way to the crater. At around 13,500 ft, we saw the wands
on the ID route to our right, and traversed the glacier towards
them. Headed down after a brief rest.
ID was in great shape. I got fried by the sun (and altitude) on the
way down and was quite happy to get to Camp Muir.
Overall, a fun route under great conditions!
mountaineer17 - May 23, 2005 8:15 pm
Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: June 19, 2004other than having to dig into 45 degree slope to camp before the summit, it's pretty similar to Disappointment Cleaver route (except a bit more technical and a few more Ice Falls to cross under.
edlins - May 16, 2005 5:51 pm
Route Climbed: Liberty Ridge Date Climbed: May 11-14summited Liberty Cap in a whiteout Friday May 13, 2005. trip report
soslaw - Apr 18, 2005 1:36 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 25, 2001Climbed with Andre. Day one to Muir in a whiteout with summit in question. Summit day alpine start under crystal clear skies. Cold, clear and windy on summit.
danman3156 - Apr 18, 2005 12:43 pm
Route Climbed: kautz glacier Date Climbed: august 8 2004First real big mountain, i had a great time. Even made the summit. Encountered bad weather on summit day but we pushed on.
Clintoris - Apr 11, 2005 11:32 pm
Route Climbed: Gibraltar Ledges Date Climbed: 4/24-4/25My first summit, my first attempt. Was hoping to get a winter summit, but due to fowl weather missed it by three days.
Even so we were alone on the summit and had an amazing time.
Looking to climb it again this summer.
vertx - Apr 8, 2005 5:23 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: March 2005The initial plan was for Gibralter Ledges. After spending 2 nights at camp Muir waiting out the weather, we decided to do Ingraham Glacier Direct. Thanks to a short break in the weather we were off to the summit on the third day. The route was very challenging and heavily crevassed, way more difficult than the last time I was on it. Although I wanted a different route under my belt and was disappointed to not be able to do the Ledges, the trip was enjoyable and successful. Just something to look forward to in the future.
patascent - Apr 6, 2005 3:46 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: March 10,2005Great climb with RMI.
Aaron Dyer - Mar 23, 2005 11:13 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons Direct Date Climbed: August 2001This was an interesting first mountaineering experiance
Dan Winter - Mar 20, 2005 10:09 pm
Route Climbed: D.C. Date Climbed: 7/29/04-7/30/04Ascending from Muir the moon was a eerie tint of red due to forrest fires in eastern Washington. Cheeseburgers at Copper Creek Inn on the way home never tasted so good.
clleis - Mar 4, 2005 1:13 pm
Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: August 2003My first climbing experience, guided by RMI. We turned around at the top of the icefall due to a tired group member. Rainier had a major impact on me, has been on my mind ever since. Recently moved from Ohio to Portland so that the mountains can be a regular part of my life, not a once a year climbing trip.