I think we were a little overzealous for the weekend. Climbed Three Finger jack on Friday, Hiked into WA Saturday night and slept just before the ridgeline. Sunday brought us to the start of the spire but was to late in the day to start the rock climbing pitches so left the summit for another day
mattcookoregon - Jun 21, 2023 8:04 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2023
Climbing the easiest route in June
Not much snow overall in this June. Once we left the PCT in the shade it was all snowy and had to choose best path towards the South ridge. Once on the ridge there was just about 0 snow travel. The first pitch up should be protected but protecting the 2nd half up is optional.
Here is a video from same time last year:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zO3wcyiBCow
Scott Becker, Michael and I summited this long awaited mountain. The approach was very long but the climbing was fun and challenging.
mattcookoregon - Jul 21, 2022 7:37 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2022
June summit
The trail quickly disappeared after leaving the PCT. In June it was on and off snow. The final climb part is pretty easy low 5s, but due to exposure and loose rock I would recommend roping for some of the way up and most of the way down. I made a video showing the whole process of making the summit.
#1 07-18-22 W/ Lana & guide Scott Becker of TMG. 6 hours up. The final pitches up the solid summit block were shall we say exciting.
Levi - Sep 10, 2021 11:46 am Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2021
14 years later
Reached the crux 14 years ago and turned around, lack of experience/gear. Finally came back and finished the route. Super fun! Smoky and viewless but worthwhile nontheless. 70m rope was excessive. Rap stations spaced out to accommodate a shorter rope. From the notch, I traversed too far right and got off route. Found the dark left leaning gully and no problems the rest of the way. The cascade bucket list continues!
Jowzynkyn - Aug 10, 2020 6:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2020
Accordion in Covid Summer
Free soloed the north ridge with my accordion, lots of loose rock on the northeast face, kept to the northwest face. 10 hours round trip car to car, beautiful view of Three Fingered Jack, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters. Signed summit register, hot almost 80 degrees even on the summit. Descent by downclimbing, terrifying but exciting!
This was an Obsidians group climb. Started at the PCT near Big Lake and went up the climber's trail on the north ridge. An excellent climb with adult supervision to set the fixed lines.
Harvest - Feb 8, 2019 12:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2017
West Ridge Route
Great climb! 7/23/17 West Ridge
MinkaLee - Nov 8, 2018 11:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 20, 2018
North Ridge Route
Really fun, although views were pretty hazy due to controlled burning around Camp Sherman. Parked at Youth Camp.
Cold morning. Summit got socked in after the first pitch and the temps dropped. Good day on a choss pile
Harvest - Aug 2, 2017 3:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2017
West Ridge Route
* 7/23/17 West Ridge Route, YDS 5.8, 7 pitches. We approached the ridge from the South via the PCT.
* 10/20/18 North Ridge Route, YDS 5.3, 3 pitches.
calebEOC - Aug 11, 2016 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2016
North Ridge
Beautiful weather climb from Patjens Lake TH with a good group of climbing friends. Climbing was pretty easy, but it sure was nice being able to rappel that first section.
mcdonaldjosh - Dec 13, 2015 2:05 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2012
Good Scramble
Started near Big Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail joining another trail leading up the North Ridge. Lost the trail and ended up scrambling straight up the mountain.
I was part of a team of 10 from the Mazamas (mazamas.org) that climbed the North Ridge route. We started from the parking lot of the Big Lake Youth Camp and used the PCT to move through the wooded lowlands and onto the ridge proper. Although it might have been possible to do the route in 2 pitches with a 70m rope, as a big group we opted for 3 pitches to the top and a rappel from the top of pitch 1 on the return. Excellent views now that the summer fire season as calmed down!
emilie - Jul 17, 2015 1:37 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2015
North Ridge
I looooove me some rope!
Brian C - Jun 30, 2015 7:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2015
North Ridge
Hot day out. Fun little scramble. Solo up and some rappelling down. Neat little summit with great views.
RockMountainGirl - Oct 20, 2014 9:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2014
Into The Clouds
It was cold a windy day, at the summit we were in the clouds.
Nick Turtura - Oct 5, 2014 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2014
Hot in October
The weather was perfect. We took the climbers trail up the NW ridge and descended down the gully. It might just be me, but it seemed a little bit looser than last time. Regardless it was a great day with great friends.
Decon - Mar 26, 2024 11:40 am
long dayI think we were a little overzealous for the weekend. Climbed Three Finger jack on Friday, Hiked into WA Saturday night and slept just before the ridgeline. Sunday brought us to the start of the spire but was to late in the day to start the rock climbing pitches so left the summit for another day
mattcookoregon - Jun 21, 2023 8:04 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2023
Climbing the easiest route in JuneNot much snow overall in this June. Once we left the PCT in the shade it was all snowy and had to choose best path towards the South ridge. Once on the ridge there was just about 0 snow travel. The first pitch up should be protected but protecting the 2nd half up is optional.
Here is a video from same time last year:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zO3wcyiBCow
yadahzoemtn - Jul 24, 2022 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2022
Long Approach to some fun climbingScott Becker, Michael and I summited this long awaited mountain. The approach was very long but the climbing was fun and challenging.
mattcookoregon - Jul 21, 2022 7:37 am Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2022
June summitThe trail quickly disappeared after leaving the PCT. In June it was on and off snow. The final climb part is pretty easy low 5s, but due to exposure and loose rock I would recommend roping for some of the way up and most of the way down. I made a video showing the whole process of making the summit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zO3wcyiBCow
Moogie737 - Jul 20, 2022 8:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2022
North Ridge from Patjen’s Lake TH#1 07-18-22 W/ Lana & guide Scott Becker of TMG. 6 hours up. The final pitches up the solid summit block were shall we say exciting.
Levi - Sep 10, 2021 11:46 am Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2021
14 years laterReached the crux 14 years ago and turned around, lack of experience/gear. Finally came back and finished the route. Super fun! Smoky and viewless but worthwhile nontheless. 70m rope was excessive. Rap stations spaced out to accommodate a shorter rope. From the notch, I traversed too far right and got off route. Found the dark left leaning gully and no problems the rest of the way. The cascade bucket list continues!
Jowzynkyn - Aug 10, 2020 6:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2020
Accordion in Covid SummerFree soloed the north ridge with my accordion, lots of loose rock on the northeast face, kept to the northwest face. 10 hours round trip car to car, beautiful view of Three Fingered Jack, Jefferson, and the Three Sisters. Signed summit register, hot almost 80 degrees even on the summit. Descent by downclimbing, terrifying but exciting!
blueshade - Jul 31, 2020 8:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2020
Fun climbSoloed all but the rap of the crux. Would consider full solo. 6.5hrs RT.
theoglick - Apr 7, 2019 8:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013
A Cascades BeautyThis was an Obsidians group climb. Started at the PCT near Big Lake and went up the climber's trail on the north ridge. An excellent climb with adult supervision to set the fixed lines.
Harvest - Feb 8, 2019 12:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2017
West Ridge RouteGreat climb! 7/23/17 West Ridge
MinkaLee - Nov 8, 2018 11:11 pm Date Climbed: Oct 20, 2018
North Ridge RouteReally fun, although views were pretty hazy due to controlled burning around Camp Sherman. Parked at Youth Camp.
sapre - Sep 18, 2018 4:35 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2018
Summer is overCold morning. Summit got socked in after the first pitch and the temps dropped. Good day on a choss pile
Harvest - Aug 2, 2017 3:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2017
West Ridge Route* 7/23/17 West Ridge Route, YDS 5.8, 7 pitches. We approached the ridge from the South via the PCT.
* 10/20/18 North Ridge Route, YDS 5.3, 3 pitches.
calebEOC - Aug 11, 2016 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2016
North RidgeBeautiful weather climb from Patjens Lake TH with a good group of climbing friends. Climbing was pretty easy, but it sure was nice being able to rappel that first section.
mcdonaldjosh - Dec 13, 2015 2:05 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2012
Good ScrambleStarted near Big Lake on the Pacific Crest Trail joining another trail leading up the North Ridge. Lost the trail and ended up scrambling straight up the mountain.
nicozone - Sep 28, 2015 5:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2015
Mazamas on the North RidgeI was part of a team of 10 from the Mazamas (mazamas.org) that climbed the North Ridge route. We started from the parking lot of the Big Lake Youth Camp and used the PCT to move through the wooded lowlands and onto the ridge proper. Although it might have been possible to do the route in 2 pitches with a 70m rope, as a big group we opted for 3 pitches to the top and a rappel from the top of pitch 1 on the return. Excellent views now that the summer fire season as calmed down!
emilie - Jul 17, 2015 1:37 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2015
North RidgeI looooove me some rope!
Brian C - Jun 30, 2015 7:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2015
North RidgeHot day out. Fun little scramble. Solo up and some rappelling down. Neat little summit with great views.
RockMountainGirl - Oct 20, 2014 9:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2014
Into The CloudsIt was cold a windy day, at the summit we were in the clouds.
Nick Turtura - Oct 5, 2014 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2014
Hot in OctoberThe weather was perfect. We took the climbers trail up the NW ridge and descended down the gully. It might just be me, but it seemed a little bit looser than last time. Regardless it was a great day with great friends.