Fun climb with friends, but a long pack out after summiting.
rhyang - Jul 9, 2008 11:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2008
East Arete
Started from camp in Sam Mack meadow - most of the waterfall chute was covered with snow, which I cramponed up before dawn (made for nice glissading on my return :)
Stayed on the arete for most of the way. When it became a true knife edge I traversed into the chute (maybe 100' from the summit ?) I was surprised at how much fun this was ! Pictures don't really do it justice. The class 2-3 chute seems to parallel the arete for most of the way, making for a nice descent route.
Atop around 10am. Beautiful day in the Palisades, though I could see clouds coming in while I descended.
dshoshone - May 19, 2008 3:36 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 2008
East Arete
Fun climb, snow from the 2nd lake on. The face only had a couple of small patches up high.
Great climb and a great view. Exposure plus high winds equal great pucker-effect. Approach was a bitch (shrinking glacier left lots of talus hopping.)
kovarpa - Jul 25, 2007 2:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007
West Arete
with Misha. One of the best alpine climbs I have ever done (not that I have done that much) - every pitch was interesting and climbing is varied in great setting on a very spectacular arete. Highly recommended.
Climbed this committing and outrageously wild Sierra backcountry route with Pavel on a glorious summer day. Pavel being a stronger and faster climber ended up leading the entire thing; all 11 long pitches of it. That alone is probably the reason why we finished it in a day. We found the route to be more difficult than anticipated, probably Grade III-IV, 5.9. We both agreed that it was one of our best climbs ever. Summited at 4:40pm after climbing non-stop for close to eight hours. Descended East Arete, went over Winchell Col and got back to our base camp in Dusy Basin at 8pm.
Dave K - Jun 20, 2007 3:56 am Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2007
East Arete
Fun day climbing with Diggler! The altitude kicked my butt that day but the wonderful scenery, great mountain and stellar companionship more than compensated for my elevation woes.
steve_hiebert - Jun 15, 2007 7:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2000
Up the Soutwest Arete and down the East Arete
My partner Demetri and I tried to follow the SW Arete description from the 1st edition of the Sierra Classics book. I think we were more or less on route, which was much fun. Done as a day from South Lake via Bishop Pass.
Diggler - Jun 4, 2007 2:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2007
Great route & weekend!
Great time in a wonderful area. Went with Dave K, who'd invited me awhile before. Definitely a dry, early season- the various Palisade & T-bolt glaciers' 'schrunds were all wide open. Amazing views on solid rock (did the E ridge) made this a delightful climb. Stayed on the ridge crest the whole time upon reaching it- class 4 & fun!
EManBevHills - Feb 27, 2006 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2004
Route Climbed: something on the West Face Date Climbed: November 26, 2005
I climbed one of the gullies on the West Face and ended up on the crest right next to one of the pinnacles (I don't think it was that Dolphin Fin, though). Very cold and windy. 4-5 class? Three rappels to escape from a couple of iffy situations....
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004
Great climb! It took me a few minutes to find the right chute (started up in the wrong place) but from then on all went well. Nice climbing at the top of the chute and along the arete.
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2004
A better scramble than I expected, with mostly solid rock and some exposure near the top. The crux was making it past the verglas-covered rocks above Sam Mack Meadow.
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: August 5, 2004
Dayhike day #6 for Sierra Challenge. Round trip hike/scramble 9hrs. Great class 3 scrambling along the entire arete, with greater difficulty and exposure near the top. The views of Agassiz and Thunderbolt were wonderful!
seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2009
East AreteAlternate for 2009 Sierra Challenge. Fun route once you get off the moraine. Hard to spot the direct approach from Sam Mack Meadow.
JHH60 - Jun 23, 2009 12:44 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008
East AreteNice class 3 climb.
tb00957 - Oct 6, 2008 4:53 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008
winchellnice class 3.
dpsiebert - Aug 21, 2008 6:07 am
East AreteFun climb with friends, but a long pack out after summiting.
rhyang - Jul 9, 2008 11:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2008
East AreteStarted from camp in Sam Mack meadow - most of the waterfall chute was covered with snow, which I cramponed up before dawn (made for nice glissading on my return :)
Stayed on the arete for most of the way. When it became a true knife edge I traversed into the chute (maybe 100' from the summit ?) I was surprised at how much fun this was ! Pictures don't really do it justice. The class 2-3 chute seems to parallel the arete for most of the way, making for a nice descent route.
Atop around 10am. Beautiful day in the Palisades, though I could see clouds coming in while I descended.
dshoshone - May 19, 2008 3:36 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 2008
East AreteFun climb, snow from the 2nd lake on. The face only had a couple of small patches up high.
MtnLdr - Sep 21, 2007 9:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2007
Southeast FaceGreat climb and a great view. Exposure plus high winds equal great pucker-effect. Approach was a bitch (shrinking glacier left lots of talus hopping.)
kovarpa - Jul 25, 2007 2:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007
West Aretewith Misha. One of the best alpine climbs I have ever done (not that I have done that much) - every pitch was interesting and climbing is varied in great setting on a very spectacular arete. Highly recommended.
Misha - Jul 23, 2007 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007
West AreteClimbed this committing and outrageously wild Sierra backcountry route with Pavel on a glorious summer day. Pavel being a stronger and faster climber ended up leading the entire thing; all 11 long pitches of it. That alone is probably the reason why we finished it in a day. We found the route to be more difficult than anticipated, probably Grade III-IV, 5.9. We both agreed that it was one of our best climbs ever. Summited at 4:40pm after climbing non-stop for close to eight hours. Descended East Arete, went over Winchell Col and got back to our base camp in Dusy Basin at 8pm.
Dave K - Jun 20, 2007 3:56 am Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2007
East AreteFun day climbing with Diggler! The altitude kicked my butt that day but the wonderful scenery, great mountain and stellar companionship more than compensated for my elevation woes.
steve_hiebert - Jun 15, 2007 7:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2000
Up the Soutwest Arete and down the East AreteMy partner Demetri and I tried to follow the SW Arete description from the 1st edition of the Sierra Classics book. I think we were more or less on route, which was much fun. Done as a day from South Lake via Bishop Pass.
Diggler - Jun 4, 2007 2:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2007
Great route & weekend!Great time in a wonderful area. Went with Dave K, who'd invited me awhile before. Definitely a dry, early season- the various Palisade & T-bolt glaciers' 'schrunds were all wide open. Amazing views on solid rock (did the E ridge) made this a delightful climb. Stayed on the ridge crest the whole time upon reaching it- class 4 & fun!
EManBevHills - Feb 27, 2006 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2004
BeauteousTerrific Vistas
kovarpa - Dec 5, 2005 2:45 am
Route Climbed: something on the West Face Date Climbed: November 26, 2005I climbed one of the gullies on the West Face and ended up on the crest right next to one of the pinnacles (I don't think it was that Dolphin Fin, though). Very cold and windy. 4-5 class? Three rappels to escape from a couple of iffy situations....
Rick Kent - Jul 14, 2005 8:09 pm
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004Great climb! It took me a few minutes to find the right chute (started up in the wrong place) but from then on all went well. Nice climbing at the top of the chute and along the arete.
cloudrippr - Feb 13, 2005 5:58 pm
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: 2001Great trip.
Matthew Holliman - Nov 17, 2004 9:18 pm
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2004A better scramble than I expected, with mostly solid rock and some exposure near the top. The crux was making it past the verglas-covered rocks above Sam Mack Meadow.
Bob Burd - Nov 7, 2004 4:25 pm
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2004Day six of the 2004 Sierra Challenge, six of us started out from Glacier Lodge, summited with Mark, Michael and Matthew. Trip Report
BranchWhitney - Aug 24, 2004 11:10 am
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: 8/22/2004Did a variation on the East Arete. Less slog more climbing. Great summit with wonderful views, but what's with the "only room for two" at the summit?
We had four at the summit with plenty of room.
PellucidWombat - Aug 10, 2004 4:35 pm
Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: August 5, 2004Dayhike day #6 for Sierra Challenge. Round trip hike/scramble 9hrs. Great class 3 scrambling along the entire arete, with greater difficulty and exposure near the top. The views of Agassiz and Thunderbolt were wonderful!