Mt. Chamberlin

Overview

Mt Chamberlin is located on the North Slope of Franklin Mountain group of Brooks Range in Alaska. It is withing the Arctic National Wildlife refuge near Peters Lake. An expedition in 2014 established its new official height as 8901 feet making it the third highest peak in the Brooks Range. It is an infrequently climbed peak.

Getting There

Access is typically by bush plane. The flight from Coldfoot Alaska takes about 2 hours and is about 200 miles Northeast of Coldfoot, AK. About 50 miles to the north of Mt Chamberlin is the Beaufort Sea coastline.

Route

Multiple routes are possible for this peak. This peak appears to be infrequently climbed and existing information as to the exact route details is lacking. See the map in the photos section to see approximate climbing route, each highlighted with a different color.

Route 1 – Chamberlin Glacier (dark blue line)

This route appears to be the most frequently used route on the mountain. It ascends the Chamberlin Creek drainage and proceeds up the glacier to the head of the basin. Once at the head of the basin proceed east on snow and ice and work your way up to the East Ridge. Once on the upper reaches of the East Ridge contour back to the west on the summit ridge and gain the summit. A high camp can be established on the lower section of the Chamberlin Glacier. Various parties had used skis to access this route. The upper section of this route has steep sections in the 40-50 degree range.

Route 1 – Variation 1 (light blue line)

After following the Chamberlin Creek route to the mid part of the glacier, travel west across the Chamberlin Glacier and climb the west slope of the basin to access the West Rib. Continue up the West Rib through the Pyramid Face to gain the West Ridge route. Once on the West Ridge head East along the summit ridge. Gain the summit by ascending the snow ridge to the top.

This is purported to be the 1^st ascent route done July 24 1963.

Route 2 – Peters Glacier (dark green line)

From base camp (approx. 2900 ft.) at Peters Lake proceed up the Chamberlin Creek drainage. Travel on the South side (right) of the creek through the green vegetated areas within the rocky area. At 1.2 miles from the base of the Chamberlin Creek gully is a large patch of vegetation suitable for a high camp (4350 ft) with 3-4 tents spaces. From the high camp follow the obvious gully to the southest on broken scree. At approximately 4800-4900 ft bear left into the broad gully that leads to the Peters Glacier gully. Descend approximately 100 feet to the Peters Glacier drainage then work your way around the bottom Northeast side to the glacier toe toward the obvious gully that leads to the prominent Pyramid face at the top of the gully. The Pyramid Face is actually the top portion of the North facing West Rib route. At approximately 6700-6800 ft the slope changes into much looser scree and the climbing becomes more tedious. The route proceeds through the Pyramid face through large blocky terrain. The general rock type is Limestone and can be quite slabby. The Pyramid is possibility 3-4 class climbing and may need some protection placed depending on route chosen through the area. Once at the top of the Pyramid face procced East along the summit ridge on snow to gain the summit.

Route 2 – Variation 1 (light green line)

Its possible to proceed along the Chamberlin Creek from high camp for approximately 0.5 mile to where Peters Glacier drainage curves and flows to the west. Traveling along the left (South) moraine ridge is quite easy until reaching the Peter Glacier Gully. Proceed up the Peters Glacier Gully. Toward the top of the gully move left into the small gully to avoid the cascade area along the Peters Glacier drainage. Just South beyond the cascade area you will be at the base of the Peters Glacier.

Route 2 – Variation 2 (yellow line)

It looks to be possible to traverse across the Peters Glacier and ascend up the West Ridge route.

There are also two possible snow/ice gullies (show as orange lines on the photos) beyond Peters Glacier that would also ascend up to the West Ridge

Route 3 – West Ridge (medium blue line)

Purported to be the 3^rd ascent route in 1970. It proceeds up the prominent west ridge from the base camp area.

Red Tape

No registration required, but contact with air support provider by satellite messaging highly recommended. Allow plenty of time in the travel schedule and food supplies for possible weather delays. Private and rental vehicles can reach Coldfoot along the Dalton Highway (Alyeska Pipeline Service Road) and there is a twice weekly shuttle from Fairbanks to Deadhorse on the Arctic Ocean (Dalton Highway Express).

There are purported emergency supplies (in a barrel) at the research station on the shore of Lake Peters. Bear spray and bear air horns are recommended to have along. We did not see any bears, but did see one wolf on the opposite shore of Peters Lake.

When to Climb

May/June/July/August. June and July appear to be the best months. Skiing part of the route can be done in May/June. Skiing condition had been reported as quite variable. High potential for mushy depth hoar skiing and climbing. Snow melts off the glaciers later in the year and the very hard glacier ice is exposed. The moist humid air can put a surface hoar on the limestone rocks when temperatures drop below freezing. 

Camping

Bear spray and bear air horns are recommended to have along.

Misc