Pic Sans Nom

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High Dauphiné
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Pic Sans Nom

Page Type:	Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon:	44.89410°N / 6.38360°E
Elevation:	12841 ft / 3914 m
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Overview

Geographical classification: Western Alps > High Dauphiné Alps > Pic Sans Nom

Pic Sans Nom is part of the Pelvoux-Ailefroides group in Ecrin's massif, the southest high massif in the Alps. Pic Sans Nom is just in between Pelvoux and Ailefroides. iT is only a little bit lower. A second summit named Pic du Coup de Sabre (3699m) is considered to be part of Pic Sans Nom.
The north face of Pic Sans Nom is above Glacier Noir and is separated from Pelvoux and Ailefroides by ice couloirs (Pelvoux pass and Glacier Noir pass).
There is an other couloir (NW couloir ) on north face wich comes very close to the summit.

There is no easy route to climb Pic Sans nom and most of them are very difficult. Pic Sans Nom is a domain for rock climbers in high mountain.

The normal route is on SE side on snow and bad rocks.
SE route has a PD cotation.

Getting There

Durance valley - Argentière - Vallouise - Ailefroide

Red Tape

The pic is in Ecrins National Park

When To Climb

summer (june-september)

Camping and Facilities:

Camping:
There is an extensive campsite on the way into Ailefroide village.

Facilities:
Ailefroide has four hotels, two small shops (selling a very good variety of food, a number of gear shops, bars, restaurants and a Bureau des Guides.
Vallouise has in addition bank, doctor, pharmacy.

Accomodations and huts:
http://www.les-ecrins-parc-national.fr/medias/FicheHeberg2001.pdf
http://www.les-ecrins-parc-national.fr/medias/CarteRefGitesWeb.pdf

Pic du Coup de Sabre

routes overview

None of the routes here are easy. Only for very good mountaineers.

Route name: Coup de Sabre pass north corridor route.
Difficulty: D sup (ice 55° to 59°).
Time required: hut to rimaye: 4h to pass: 3h-5h
Essential gear: crampons, crabs, ice vis
Start point: Cézanne hut (1874m) or bivouac near Glacier Noir.
Top point: Coup de Sabre pass (3495m)
Difference in height: 800m
First ascent:M.Fourastier, H. Le Breton, A. Manhès, september 1 1936

Route name: Pic Sans Nom : Coup de Sabre pass north corridor route and W ridges.
Difficulty: TD (10 pitons on ridge)
Time required: hut to rimaye: 4h + 9h-11h to summit
Essential gear: crampons, crabs, pitons, mousquetons
Start point: Cézanne hut (1874m) or bivouac near Glacier Noir.
Mid point: Coup de Sabre pass (3495m)
Top point: Pic Sans Nom (3914m)
Difference in height: hut to rimaye: 1225m + rimaye to pass: 400m + to summit: 800m
First ascent:M. Brissaud, V Péguy, june 15 1973

Route name: Pic Sans Nom : north west corridor route and W ridge.
Difficulty: TD inf (10 pitons on ridge)
Time required: 9h to summit
Essential gear: crampons, pitons, mousquetons
Start point: bivouac near Glacier Noir (2800m).
Top point: Pic Sans Nom (3914m)
Difference in height: 1100m
First ascent:P. Allain, J. Charignon, J. Leininger, J. Vernet september 5 1934
NW couloir pictures

Route name: Pic Sans Nom : west face route.
Difficulty: TD inf (10 pitons on ridge)
Time required: 9h to summit
Essential gear: crampons, pitons, mousquetons
Start point: bivouac near Glacier Noir (2800m).
Top point: Pic Sans Nom (3914m)
Difference in height: 1100m
First ascent:P.Chapoutot, J. F. Lemoine july 29 1971

Route name: Pic Sans Nom : north face route.
Difficulty: TD sup (rare good conditions)
Time required: 13h-16h basis to summit
Essential gear: crampons, pitons, mousquetons
Start point: bivouac near Glacier Noir (2800m).
Top point: Pic Sans Nom (3914m)
Difference in height: 1100m
First ascent:L. Georges, V. Russenberger august 22-24 1950

Route name: Pic Sans Nom : north pillar route.
Difficulty: TD sup
Time required: 12h-15h basis to summit
Essential gear: crampons, pitons (20-25), mousquetons, étriers, bivouac
Start point: bivouac near Glacier Noir (2800m).
Top point: Pic Sans Nom Eperon Nord (3829m)
Difference in height: 1000m
First ascent:P. Chapoutot, JL Mercadier, JJ Roland, august 12-13 1970