Teewinot Mountain

Overview

Teewinot Mountain is one of the major peaks of the Teton range and is arguably the most accessible due to it's prominent location directly above the Lupine Meadows parking area. Although significantly lower in height than the Grand Teton, it is the only major peak which is completely visible from Jenny Lake and is therefore often mistaken by visitors for the Grand Teton. The name, originally spelled Tee-Win-At, is an Indian word meaning "pinnacles", which is appropriate since the summit is actually a large monolith with several sharp summit spires, the highest of which is quite exposed and big enough for only one or two people. The most common route to the summit is via the ramps and gullies of the East Face, which rises 5,600 ft directly above Lupine Meadows. Although rated class 4, the route is quite sustained and more exposed than many other class 4 routes in the park. This makes downclimbing the route a considerable challenge and many parties will desire a rope. Additionally, there are typically steep snow patches on the route until late summer, such that an ice axe is almost always necessary. In addition to the normal East Face route, there are several other noteworthy routes such as the Direct North Ridge (5.8) and the Emerson's Chimney variation of the North Face (5.8). The view from the summit is one of the finest in the range, with Mount Owen and the North Face of the Grand Teton directly to the south-west.

Getting There

Approach Grand Teton National Park from the south on US 89 and enter the park on Teton Park Road at Moose Junction (entry fee required). Teton Park Road can also be accessed from the north in the vicinity of the Jackson Lake dam. Follow Teton Park Road until signs indicate the turn-off for the Lupine Meadows Trailhead, located just south of the Jenny Lake visitors' area. Follow the gravel road for roughly 2 miles, crossing a small wooden bridge, to reach the very large parking area. Note that there is a small parking area for a few cars a few hundred meters before the main parking lot. The trail for the East Face (and the Direct North Ridge and North Face routes) begins at a near end of the parking lot (i.e. the west end) and is quite obvious.

See the Grand Teton page for more info on getting to the park.

Red Tape

An entrance fee is required for Grand Teton National Park ($20 per vehicle for 7 days or $50 for a 1-year pass valid at all US National Parks).

Complete details on entrance fees can be found on the Grand Teton page.

When To Climb

Teewinot Mountain is most often climbed in the summer months (July-September) when it is primarily a scramble with a few short sections of snow. The amount of snow is substantially decreased by late-season and may disappear entirely by late August. In winter, the East Fact route becomes a moderate snow climb.

Camping

Camping is permitted at designated campgrounds within the park, such as the one found at Jenny Lake (no RV's). Sites fill up very quickly at the more popular areas, especially Jenny Lake. I recommend Gros Ventre Campground, located about 6 miles east of US 89 between Moose and Jackson ($14 per site, per day, no showers). There is also a Climber's Ranch operated by the AAC located on Teton Park Road south of Jenny Lake. There are cabins here which accomodate 8 people each at a cost of $8 per person, per night. There is a large pavilion for cooking, as well as showers, bathroom facilities, and a very impressive library of climbing magazine and books. Bivying in the back-country is allowed but a permit must be obtained from the ranger's station.

An extensive listing of camping and lodging options can be found on the Grand Teton page.

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tmbass - Sep 2, 2008 11:16 am - Hasn't voted

AAC Climber's Ranch

Clarification: $8 a night for AAC members; $16 a night for non-members. Very welcoming for everyone from serious climbers to families playing in the Tetons. Online reservation system and info: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/page/90, or call ahead. 307.733.7271. Generally open: June 1 to September 30.

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