Velika Martuljska Ponca

Overview

Geographical structure: Eastern Alps > Julian Alps > Martuljek group.



Martuljek panorama: Veliki Oltar, Velika Ponca and Mala Ponca from the north side.

Velika Ponca is one of the highest mountains in Martuljek group. It leads in the main ridge of Martuljek group. From the village Gozd Martuljek it can be observed in the famous view of these mountains. It is very heterogeneous mountain because to each side it is showing different ground, screes, sheer slopes, faces, and couloirs…

From north, Martuljek group looks like a broad, slightly curved crest of wild, rugged peaks. This range starts on NE with Vrtaski vrh, 1898m, continues towards W-SW over Sleme, 2077m and reaches the sharp Kukova spica 2427m, with which a beautiful half circle of high mountains starts. Skrnatarica 2448m, Dovski kriz 2542m, Veliki Oltar, 2621m and from this one in a NW direction Velika Ponca, 2602m, Mala Ponca, 2502m, Spik 2472m, Frdamane police, 2284m, Rusica, 2074m. In front of this ridge leads a very hard approachable mountain called Siroka pec. It is nice seen with its steep N face from Gozd Martuljek.

Velika Ponca is the seventh highest mountain in Slovenia and the fourth highest in the Martuljek group. It leads in the main ridge of Martuljek group, which comes from the NW direction from Spik and Mala Ponca to the summit of Velika Ponca and then continues to the Veliki Oltar.

Velika Ponca has around 400 meters high north face which is not very popular of climbing because it doesn’t have good rock. The north face is separated of NE and of NW face. In the NW face are some climbing routes.
Velika Ponca is from the north side more popular in Winter when its slopes are very popular for tour and alpinist skiing. The main aims are Kacji jezik (the Snake's tongue) and a notch between Velika Ponca and Mala Ponca.

On Velika Ponca leads a normal route from Krnica valley from the SW way. It is the nice route, which leads you below a north face of Skrlatica by Bivouac I. On the upper part just below the summit you must climb a small wall with difficulty around UIAA II-III. You have a lot of possibilities.

Getting There

The main valley to start climbing on Veliki Oltar is Sava valley. If you go from Ljubljana you travel by highway towards NW, through Jesenice and further to Mojstrana, Martuljek or Kranjska Gora (from Kranjska Gora on the road to the Vrsic pass and then turning to Krnica valley).

From west side you drive from Kranjska Gora to the branch to the Krnica valley and Koca v Krnici (hut). Here you park and proceed to the Koca v Krnici (hut). On the way you go by another bivouac called Bivak I. It is very small but you can sleep there.

If you want to climb on Veliki Oltar from north you drive to village Gozd Martuljek where you follow the signpost for Bivak III (the Bivouac III) and walking route number 6.

Maps:

Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Triglav. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:25000

Routes Overview

Velika Ponca has a lot of possibilities of approaches from all sites. I write some of them but for more details you must look to the routes section.

Normal route from the Krnica valley (SW side)

Route over Kacji jezik (Snake's tongue) and SE ridge from Gozd Martuljek (N side)

Some tour skiing and alpinist skiing:

Notch between Velika Ponca and Mala Ponca, tour skiing (N side)

Kacji jezik ( the Snake's tongue), alpinist skiing (N side)

Some climbing routes in SW and W faces:

Smer v Zahodnem delu, V+/ V, 250m, 8h, (NW face)

Helebarda, VII-,A0/VII, 180m, (W face)

Red Tape

No limitations but Velika Ponca leads in Triglavski Narodni park so you must be kind to the nature and other beauties.

When To Climb

Best time from the south-west side is in June, July when is not very hot. From north is fine when snow stil lies. From west also when the snow still lies because this can make you easier come over the screes.

For skiing through the Kacji jezik (the Snake tongue) and from the notch between Velika Ponca and Mala Ponca are the best months March, April and May. In Winter months but be careful for avalanches.

Camping and huts

In Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels.

Under the north wall of Spik, north face of Frdamane police and south face of Rusica there is a bivouac (1424 m). The keys are held by Mihaela Oman, Zg. Rute 24, 4282 Gozd-Martuljek, (04) 588-08-65 (Mountaineering Club Gozd Martuljek).

Bivouacs II (6 beds), III (8 beds), I (3 beds) are maintained by Mountaineering Club Jesenice. Address: Cesta zelezarjev 1, 4270 Jesenice; tel.: (04) 586-60-70

In Krnica valley you go by Koca V Krnici (hut).

KOCA V KRNICI hut (1113m) stands on a small meadow in conifer forest on the bottom of Krnica valley. The valley is surrounded by high peaks: Skrlatica (2740m), Razor (2601m) and Prisojnik (2547m). Opening year was 1933. It is open from May 1st till October 31st, while outside that frame during weekends and holidays. It has 20 beds, water and power from a generator.

Mountain Conditions

Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known, thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is bellow the Triglav.

You can observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site. Here is direct link to Wunderground - Kredarica page.

Some weather informatin can also be found here.

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Images

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