Antelao, Monte

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.45229°N / 12.26143°E
Additional Information Elevation: 10705 ft / 3263 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Antelao 3263m), the highest peak in Cadore and the second of the Dolomites (after the "Queen" Marmolada, 3343 m), is known as the "King of the Dolomites". Situated in the eastern part of the Dolomites, Antelao can be reached from the villages of San Vito di Cadore, Pieve di Cadore and Calalzo (close to Cortina d'Ampezzo in south east direction, and on the north side of "Marmarole", reached through the Forcella Piccola).

The glacier situated in the noth-east side of the mountain (called "Ghiacciaio Superiore and Ghiacciaio Inferiore") in these last years unfortunately is going to disappear. At its west side it is located the beautiful "Boite valley" and at its north east side the wild "d'Oten valley".

Other nice mountains like Punta Menini (3177m), Punta Chiggiato (3163m) and Punta Fanton (3142m) are located near the main peak.

It's normal route starts from Galassi Hut, close to Forcella Piccola, and passes through Cosi Bivouac, situated at 3102 meters at only 30 minutes from the peak (red signals on the route). The Antelao climbing requires II level rock passages.

First climb: Paul Grohmann and the local hunter Matteo Ossi in 1863.
M. Antelao SW wall in the...Antelao SW wall in the morning

Getting There

To reach Cadore region:

The nearest motorway exit is the A27 motorway - Pian di Vedoia.

  • From Venice and Treviso drive along the A27 motorway, exit Pian di Vedoia - Ponte nelle Alpi, then continue along the S.S. 51 and 51 as far as Pieve di Cadore.
  • From Padova and Vicenza drive along the A4 motorway, exit Mestre - Venice airport Marco Polo, and enter the A27 motorway. From Pian di Vedoia continue along the S.S. 51 and 51 as far as Pieve di Cadore.
  • From Bressanone and Dobbiaco drive along the S.S. 49 as far as San Candido, then continue along the S.S. 52 as far as Padola, and from here to Vigo di Cadore along the S.S. 51 bis.
  • From Tarvisio drive along the S.S. towards Udine, enter the A23 motorway, exit Carnia, then continue along the S.S. 52 towards Lorenzago di Cadore through Forni di Sotto.
  • From Bolzano drive along the A22 motorway as far as Trento Nord exit, continue along the S.P. 235 road and then the S.S. 12 to Trento.
    • From Trento enter the S.S. 47 main road to Feltre, where you will arrive following the 50 bis and 50 main roads
      • From Feltre continue towards Belluno and Ponte nelle Alpi (S.S. 50) and Pieve di Cadore (S.S. 51 and 51 bis).

M. Antelao SW wall in the...Antelao SW wall in the sunset

Cadore, the region in which Antelao is located...

Cadore is the eastern part of the Dolomites. It lies along the Piave riverbed, its territory is overhanged by the Antelao, the Marmarole, the Tudaio and the Cridola. Its main villages are Pieve di Cadore, Calalzo di Cadore, Domegge, Lozzo, Vigo and Lorenzago.
It is different for culture and history from the other regions situated around Dolomites mountains. It belonged to Austrian empire from the Vienna congress (1815) and the "Three bridges battle" when it became definetely italian (1866). During the first World War it was a theatre of important and violent battles between Austrian and Italian armies. For tourist (climbers, trekkers or only visitors) the main difference is that itis not so crowded like other Dolomite parts (Cortina d'Ampezzo, Sella group or Sexten Dolomites, for example) but it has the same beauty.

Routes

routes to main summit
from Guida dei Monti d'Italia - Dolomiti Orientali (vol I - part I)

- from Forcella Piccola - normal route - 4 hours - F+
- from Ghiacciaio Superiore - 6 hours - PD
- NW ridge - 8 hours - AD inf
- S wall - 10 hours from "Bus del Diaul" - AD inf
- From Cima Fanton (E) - 8 hours - AD
- from Ghiacciaio Inferiore - Direttissima - AD
- from Ghiacciaio Inferiore - N channel - AD
- W edge - TD
- SW wall - Bettella-Scalco - ED
- SW chimney - Bettella Barbiero - TD sup
- S wall - direttissima - TD sup

Refuges

The follow refuges are situated along the High Route (Alta via) number 4 and are open only in the summer period. All have nice view over Antelao and its valleys...

Refuge Antelao, 1796 m., 2h30min from Pieve di Cadore, situated on the Sella Pradònego.

Refuge Galassi, 2018 m., 1h30min from San Vito di Cadore, situated on Forcella Piccola.

Maps and Books

Tabacco 1:25000:
MAP 025 - Dolomiti di Zoldo, Cadorine e Agordine fits best
MAP 03 - Cortina d'Ampezzo and Dolomiti Ampezzane places Antelao only in the corner.

Kompass: 1:50000 MAP 634 - Pieve di Cadore and Monte Antelao.

Luca Visentin - Antelao Sorapiss Marmarole, Athesia - Bolzano (1986)


Meteo

Check the weather at at Meteo Alpin.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1
echothevoid

echothevoid - Aug 5, 2010 8:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Map

I would better recommend NOT to buy this map: Tabacco: MAP 03 - Cortina d'Ampezzo and Dolomiti Ampezzane. The summit is exactly at the right bottom corner of the map and you cannot see much. A better option is to get: Tabacco: MAP 025 - Dolomiti di Zoldo, Cadorine e Agordine there you can see everything from Lago di Valle at the rightmost direction and the whole Mount Antelao with places south of it as well.

Viewing: 1-1 of 1


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