Graybeard Peak

Overview

Graybeard Peak is the accepted name for Point 7965 located about one mile southeast of Easy Pass in the North Cascades.

From most aspects the peak has a definite pyramid shape.

Because of the poor rock quality, most of the climbing interest is in the spring.

The North Face is a much sought after snow and ice route with conditions being the best shortly after the road opening in the spring.

According to Beckey, the first ascent was by Carl Ben Casey and William A Long in August 1959. The route of this ascent is not specified.

Getting There

The most reasonable access to to the mountain is from the Easy Pass Trailhead.

Take State Route 20 to mile post 151. The trailhead is located on south side of the highway. The turnoff is well marked.

A Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent is required and there is a self pay station.

Easy Pass Trail Description





Road conditions and status:

North Cascades National Park road conditions site.

State Route 20 Spring Opening Information

Routes Overview

Beckey describes (vaguely) only one route on the peak, but numerous routes exist and are described in various trip reports on the Net.

Listed here are those that I could find along with links to their descriptions.

Southwest Route, Class 4 (SP page)

This is the only route described by Beckey who just says to traverse to the south slope, then climb on scree to withing 200 feet of the top where a 25 foot notch requires class 3 or 4 climbing. See the route description attached to this page for more details.

North Face Grade IV, AI3 according to the SP author (SP page).

Various lines are possible. Most climbs go more or less up the center of the face.

NF Trip Report with routes marked on photo

NF Trip Report with route marked on photo

NF Trip Report - avalanche

East Face

EF Trip Report - climb and ski descent - routes marked on photo

West Ridge Class 4 or 5(?)

WR Trip Report -dry conditions - good photos

WR Trip Report - a lot of snow

Red Tape

A Northwest Forest Pass or equivalent is required to park at the Easy Pass Trailhead.

South of Easy Pass, you are in the North Cascades National Park - Park regulations apply, including the requirement for a backcountry permit for overnight stays.

Pets are not allowed at Easy Pass or anywhere else in the national park.

Camping

If camping south of Easy Pass:

A backcountry permit is required for all overnight stays. Permits are limited. There is no camping allowed at Easy Pass or in the meadows. Fisher Camp is located in the basin below the pass. Midway along the Fisher Creek Trail, find Cosho Camp in the forest, and Junction Camp is located at the intersection with the Thunder Creek Trail.

Car Camping:

USFS Campground Information

When to Climb

The rock is Skagit Gneiss and tends to be loose. April-May is suggested for the North face ascents. The Southwest route can be climbed year-round.

Images

View Graybeard Peak Image Gallery - 27 Images