Schwartz Pinnacle

Location: Redfish Lake area in the Northeastern part of the range.  Popular area, but the approach valleys contain no trail and these peaks are seldom explored. Part of the Iowa Pinnacles.

Nearby Peaks: Mt. Bruce, Horstmann Peak, Harriet's Pinnacle, Mt. Limbert, Mt. Carter, Mickey's Spire

Linkups: Mt. Carter, Mt. Limbert, Harriets Pinnacle, Mt. Bruce, Mt. Bush

Difficulty:  Class 3 with Class 4 summit, Rugged ridgeline with exposure, difficult off trail approach

Usage: Scrambling, Rock Climbing, Couloir Climbing

Terrain:  Serrated Ridgeline on rotten and solid rock

Traffic:  Non existent- perhaps every 10 years this ridge is explored.  In the early days of climbing in this region the Iowa Mountaineers, the Underhills, and Dave Williams set up base camps near Lake 9425 and climbed these peaks

Summit Register:  Yes.  There was a cairn at the top and an old sling with rusted rap ring was found nearby.

History / Entomology:  Originally named Pattys Pinnacle for Don Sullivan's young daughter (Iowa Mountaineers), then named Schwartz Pinnacle for Canadian Hans Schwartz who guided in the Sawtooths in the 1940's and later returned in the 1970's to join the Iowa Mountaineers.  The Iowa Mountaineers visited the Sawtooths from the 1940's until the 1980's approximately every 10 years.  They brought between 20 and 80 people, established base camps, and spent time exploring and climbing.

Nearest Paved Roads:  ID-75, Redfish Lake Road

Nearest Dirt Roads / Conditions:  None

Approach Trails / Conditions:  Fishhook Trail from Redfish Lodge area (Excellent)- trail peters out and becomes vague

Main Route:  East Ridge Class 4- Follow the Fishhook Trail until it ends where it crosses a creek coming down from the north.  Continue up the valley staying on the north side of the creek and continue to angle more north and into the side valley (Limbert Valley).  Stay north of the creek coming out of Lake 9425 until about 8700 ft.  Here, cross the creek and travel on the south side in a beautiful open valley.  Just before another steep section of the valley (9000 ft /seasonal waterfall), cross back to the north of the creek and climb to Lake 9425.  From the lake there is a prominent ramp leading to the saddle between Harriets Pinnacle and Schwartz Pinnacle. This ramp is steep and loose with big drop offs. Stay close to the wall for the best footing  (Note: The Lopez guide has Harriet's mislabeled on the map in the book on page 165.  Harriet's should be further west on the ridge. This is obvious when you see the real geography of this ridge in person).  Also, this ramp holds snow until late in the summer.  From the notch continue up the sandy and steep east slopes until you reach the east summit.  Climb down to a notch and you will be at the start of the Class 4 section of the west summit block and the high point.  Slab climb to the summit.

Descent:  Either retrace your steps or descend from the Harriets-Schwartz saddle down the south slopes to Fishook Creek.

Main Route Stats:  12.1miles / 3723 (round trip)

Average RT Time:  8-10 hours (strenuous off trail approach)

Other Routes:  The south crack on the summit block is easy 5th, but has loose blocks in the chimney.  The SW crack from the Limbert-Schwartz saddle is 5.6 and was first climbed by Lyman Dye and Ken Morrison

Jurisdiction:  National Forest (Sawtooth National Recreation Area)

Permit:  No

Other Users / Issues:  Difficult cross country travel and approach

Maps:  USGS Quad- Stanley, Stanley Lake.  The USGS maps do not show most of the pinnacles and mountains in the Iowa Pinnacles area.

Guide Book:  Tom Lopez,  Idaho: A Climbing Guide,  Off Belay Magazine Feb 1975,  The Iowa Climber Vol II No. 2 Summer 1948

When To Climb

Climbing Season:  Summer, Fall (June-Oct)

Ideal Climbing Time:  July-Sept

Nearest Weather Station:  Stanley

Weather Relative to Region:  located near the highest peaks in the range- expect slightly greater chance of summer T-storms in this area and earlier /later snow on the north slopes

Camping

Car Camping Sites:  Redfish Lake area offers lots of drive in camp sites

Backpacking Sites:  Not ideal because of the difficult cross country travel (steep slopes, logs to cross etc.).  Limbert Valley would make a terrific area if you could get in.

Flora & Fauna

Potential Wildlife:  Badger, Beaver, Black Bear, Mule Deer, Pronghorn, Cougar, Coyote, Elk, Marmot, Marten, Moose, Mountain Goat, Rainbow Trout, Brook Trout, Pika, Wolf

Confirmed Wildlife: Pika, Elk, Mountain Goat, Rainbow Trout

Vegetation:  Lodgepole, High elevation tiny flowers and lichens

Images

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