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14446 Hits
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81.18% Score
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13 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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48.21175°N / 120.91149°W |
Activities:
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Hiking, Scrambling |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
Elevation:
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7915 ft / 2412 m |
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Overview
Cloudy Peak at 7,915 feet lies just to the northeast of Cloudy Pass in the Glacier Peak wilderness. This makes for a great climb with great views. Practically anyone can get to the summit block but it will take a couple class 4 moves to summit the block. Views of Glacier Peak, Dumbbell Mountain, Chiwawa Mountain, Spider Gap and the Lyman Lakes are spectacular from Cloudy Peak. Get to Cloudy Pass either from the Trinity trail-head or from Holden Village.
View from Cloudy PassGetting There
From Cloudy Pass, head northward trying to follow some social trails that quickly end.
Cloudy Peak from Cloudy PassAscend generally in a northeast direction until you crest the southwest ridge. Follow this ridge up until you get to the summit block.
Panoramic View from the Summit of Cloudy PeakTo summit the block itself walk to the east side of the summit block and traverse around it towards the back (north) side until you get to a slope you can walk up. You will soon get to a series of class 3 or 4 pitches that can be done without protection but people have roped here. The exposure is pretty minimal and keeping a close eye to where you place your feet and hands will allow you to summit without too much trouble. Getting back down is a little harder than usual here. A fall will most likely not be fatal unless you gain enough horizontal momentum that you roll over the large ledge at the base of the summit block and fall off the north face.
Glacier Peak from the base of the summit blockGetting to the base of the summit block will be more than enough for most people though. When I was here I didn't get myself to stand at the very top of the block but I did find a way to get my head above the true summit which was enough for me. These next two photos were taken from the same place near Upper Lyman Lake. Return the way you came.
Cloudy Peak (left) and Bonanza Peak (right) from upper Lyman Lake | 
Bonanza Peak is on the right with Cloudy Peak on the left from the meadows south of Lyman Lake |
gimpilator - Jun 15, 2015 8:13 pm - Hasn't voted
Summit Block"...will allow you to summit without too much trouble." "When I was here I didn't get myself to stand at the very top of the block but I did find a way to get my head above the true summit" How do you know the exposure is minimal and it's easy to get to the summit if you didn't make it yourself? I spent some time yesterday exploring the options and found each one to be a bit tricky. First I traversed the dirty ledge around to the north ridge and scrambled up near the summit. I'm guessing that's as far as you made it, right? It would require real climbing to cross the knife-edge to the summit from there. I back-tracked to near the beginning of the dirt ledge and scrambled up a steep loose gully with bad footing and scant handholds. Half way up I decided the gully was too loose to descend safely considering a fall could potentially dump you over the east face cliff. I decided to search for a better way down. From the summit I climbed down a hidden 10 foot chimney to a ledge. This ledge is just a bit north of the loose gully (12 feet above the dirt path). A single class 4+ move brought me back to near the bottom of the loose gully.
Matt Lemke - Jul 26, 2015 2:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Summit BlockYes I walked that dirty ledge and scrambled up to a point where I looked over the summit at Dumbbell Mountain and the Lyman Lakes. I wasn't standing on the summit itself but it didn't matter to me. If you want to actually stand on the summit, I saw the route you described but at the time I wasn't supposed to leave my friends down by Cloudy Pass and I was already scaring them by running up this peak and didn't want to be away too much longer.
gimpilator - Jul 26, 2015 8:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Summit BlockFair enough. I was just wondering.