Eissee-Spitze (Punta del Lago Gelato)

Overview

Punta del Lago Gelato - Eissee-Spitze 3230 m 

Punta del Lago Gelato - or Eissee Spitze, the original Tyrolean name - is a fine summit belonging to the Ortles-Cevedale Group, Vertana-Angelo-Lasa Subgroup. It's a minor but very interesting peak located between Passo del Lago Gelato (Eissee Pass) m. 3139 and Cima  Pozzo (Butzen-Spitze) m. 3300, on the 7 km. long ridge known as Costiera del Madriccio, running from Passo del Lago Gelato (Eissee Pass) to Passo dello Scudo (Schild-Joch) and separating the upper Val di Lasa (Laaser Tal) on the West side from the upper Val Martello (Martell Tal) on the East. Several other peaks are lined up this ridge, like Cima Pozzo, Cima Madriccio, Punta Beltovo di Dentro, Punta Peder di Dentro and Punta delle Laste. The origin of the place-name “Lago Gelato”, meaning Frozen Lake, is unknown. The peak is surrounded by several important summits, like the superb Gran Zebrù, Monte Zebrù, Ortles and Sulden-Spitze: from the top we can enjoy a wide view on these peaks and on numberless other summits inside Ortles-Cevedale Group, like the ridge Martello-Venezia-Marmotta and Madriccio Ridge. The most known route is the one situated in the Solda Valley’s side, because of the route is quickly approached by a cableway starting from Solda. The fine one starts from Nino Corsi Hut, situated in upper Martello Valley, inside a wild and peaceful environment.

Getting There

Eissee Spitze and upper Val Martello map

ROAD ACCESS

To Refuge Nino Corsi - From A22 Brennero Motorway exit Bolzano and follow the road 38 towards Merano and Val Venosta as far as Coldrano 672 m; here leave the main road turning left and following the road entering Val Martello (Martell Tal) and leading to Paradiso del Cevedale m. 2050 where the road ends (Km. 81 from Bolzano).

To Solda – From A22 Brennero Motorway exit Bolzano and follow SS 38 towards Merano. Enter Val Venosta and keep the main road as far as Spondigna. Here turn to left and follow the road to Passo Stelvio, reaching the little village of Gomagoi. Here leave the main road to Passo Stelvio and turn to left following the road n. 622 entering Val di Solda and leading to Solda m. 1907 (Km. 95 from Bolzano).

APPROACH TO RIFUGIO NINO CORSI

Rifugio Nino Corsi (Zufall-Hutte) m. 2265 is situated very close to Paradiso del Cevedale. From here a very good path leads to the refuge in half an hour.

Eissee Spitze - Cima del Lago Gelato main routes overview

Sunrise on Eissee Spitze

Eisse Spitze summit ridge

NW Ridge - Stecknersteig

Difficulty: F+
Difference in level: 630 m
Exposure: NW, then NE
Starting point: Solda Cableway upper Station 2600 m, 2,30 by walking from Solda

An easy and panoramic route.

The route is dedicated to Albert Steckner, who in 1895 financed the setting of the route to allow an easy access to the summit and to the little refuge Halle, built on Eisseepass, destroyed during the WWI (Grande Guerra) and no longer rebuilt. The starting point is from Solda Cableway upper station 2600 m. It’s possible to stay overnight at the Refuge Città di Milano, situated below the Cableway upper station. From the station follow the track towards South and reach a fork; follow the left trail (marks “Stecknersteig”), scrambling along scree and blocks on the NW ridge – some climbing steps – and reaching the NE ridge ending section. Follow it to the summit cairn.

Descent: reversing the same route

NE Ridge

Difficulty: F+
Difference in level: 1000 m
Exposure: NE
Starting point: Nino Corsi Hut (half an hour by walking from Paradiso del Cevedale)

A very interesting route, alternating easy rocky steps with ice slopes.

From Rifugio Nino Corsi follow the good path (marks to Martello Hut); at the stones-dam ignore on the left the path towards Martello Hut and carry on the main path n. 150, reaching a lake situated near the exit of Valle Pozzo. The path heads towards the crevassed Vedretta Lunga (Langenferner); before getting to the start of the glacier leave the main path and head to the right, walking towards a light hollow below the North-East Ridge, between Punta del Lago Gelato on the left and Cima Pozzo on the right. Scramble on the ridge, alternating snow-slopes with some steps of easy rock climbing, leading to the summit signal. The view is very interesting on numberless summits of the wide Ortles-Cevedale group and in particular on the main summits of Ortles and Gran Zebrù.

Descent: reversing the route 

NE Ridge – SE Ridge Crossing

This crossing involves some easy rocky steps while descending along the SE ridge, which leads to Vedretta Lunga (Langenferner). A short final glacier crossing along the left orographic edge of the crevassed Vedretta Lunga - rope up, the glacier is not to be taken lightly – leads to the path n.150.

Surrounding peaks

Red Tape

No fees or permits needed to climb Eissee Spitze - Cima del Lago Gelato. The mountain is located inside Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and peacefulness with every kind of noise.

Huts

Rifugio Nino Corsi (Zufall-Hütte) 2265 m - C.A.I. Milano – ½ hour from Paradiso del Cevedale- Phone 0039-0472-632472, 109 beds, open from middle june to middle September

Rifugio Città di Milano (Schaubach Hütte) 2581 m situated on the right lateral moraine of the Sulden-Ferner Glacier. Cableway from Solda m. 1907.

Essential gear

Rope, ice-axe and crampons

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to middle September.

Meteo

Meteo Bolzano Alto Adige
Meteo Alto Adige

Guidebooks and maps

Guidebooks

“Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo” by Hanspaul Menara – Ed. Athesia
"Ortles-Cevedale – Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio” by Gino Buscaini – Collana CAI-TCI Guide dei Monti d’Italia

Maps

“Ortles-Cevedale” , foglio 72 - Kompass 1:50.000 "Ortles-Cevedale" - Tabacco

External Links

Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio