East Temple

Overview/Approach

 
East Temple in Zion is a less popular objective then its brethren, the West Temple. The difference in their popularity is related to accessibility. The only published route to the summit of East Temple prior to 2012 was the FA ascent commonly referred to as the Mountaineer's Route which was established in 1937 by Glen Dawson, Dick Jones, Homer Fuller, Wayland Gilbert, and Jo Momyer.  
 
There are also much shorter routes on East Temple's lower southern flank, directly across from Tunnel Wall.

For any of the routes excluding the Mountaineers Route, access is gained from the first bend in the park road before ascending to the tunnel (Pine Creek). From here a well-trodden trail used by canyoneers exiting Pine Creek is followed along the lower southern base of East Temple.

Route Description(s)

   
Summit Routes

Mountaineers Route/

West Ridge, 5.9; A0/

Established 2012. Fast moving route up the west ridge. Approximately 20 single rope raps to descend. Dow

South Lower Wall Routes, Left to Right

Lovelace (aka The Fang Wall), 5.10; C2/

The Fang Spire, 5.9; C3/

Wisdom Tooth, 5.10; A0/

Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion, 5.10+; C2/

This route sees few ascents to begin with, but it sounds like on the few it has received, climbers are skipping the first two pitches. Those are actually decent climbing pitches. The first pitch is the second best pitch on the entire route from a crack climbing perspective. Both follow the same crack system up to a ledge that is traversed right and up via a third pitch to the base of the premier pitch, the double crack corner. From there, the climbing is never quite as sustained, involving a few scary face leads if heading all the way to the top. More than likely the last pitch is going to have to be bolted before anyone attempts to free it again. The sixth pitch offers the best climbing beyond the marquee fourth pitch. Dow

Schnaggle Tooth (Snaggletooth?), 5.10R/

Uncertain Fates, 5.11; C1/

Birthday Bash, 5.12/

Freezer Burn (aka Free or Burn), 5.10; A2/

10th Division, 5.10+/

Old Man of the Mountain, 5.10/

External Links

The Many Free Routes in Zion National Park

Oscar’s Café, the only place for climbers to truly fill their appetite (free range chicken, beef and Hank’s Tanker) and meet one of the finer climbers and individuals I know on the face of the earth, Zach Lee, someone who has established many of his own local FA’s in the area.

Zion National Park
trail conditions or closures, wildlife notices/closures, weather conditions, camping permits, canyon water levels, etc.

Images

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