Descabezado Grande

Take a bus from Santiago to Talca, that is located 255km south of Santiago. The trip should take between 3 and 4 hours cost 5000 Chilean Pesos in Feb 2014 (approximately 10 USD). There are many daily connections from Santiago to Talca, best-known companies include Tur Bus, Condor Bus and JAC. Smaller and local transportation providers are "Talca Paris Londres" and AltasCumbres. Ask for direct connections as some buses have stops on the way and hence take more time. 

As Talca is not very interesting from a touristic point of view you might consider leaving directly for the national park "Altos del Lircay" on the same day. In the case of staying in Talca for one night, there is a pension on Cinco Oriente at the crossroad with Uno Norte - private room, shared bathroom for 10'000 CLP (a little less than 20 USD) included a small breakfast. Sadly, I can't remember the name of it.

From Talcas bus terminal transport to Vilches Alto is offered various times a day. The trip takes approximately 2 hours on a (in parts) very dusty gravel road and cost 1600 Chilean Pesos in 2014 (3 USD). The national park is the last stop of the bus, but it never hurts to double check with the driver. From there it is a 2 kilometer walk to the entrance of the national park, where you have to pay 4'000 CLP for the first day (for Chileans 2'000 CLP) and another 2'000 Pesos for every day you intend to stay in the national park. Usually, you cross the park on the first day of the approach and leave it early the second morning and do the same in the reverse direction on the fourth and fifth day, so that would be 6'000 Pesos more (approximately 12 USD). It is mandatory to bring a stove when staying overnight in the park and the rangers might ask you to show them your stove. The rangers are generally very helpful and can explain you the part of the approximation that falls into the park quite accurately. It should be possible to leave some stuff at the entrance with the rangers, however, I did not leave anything there, so I'm not sure if it is an official offer or just courtesy of the ranger on duty.

No permits are needed. As you will be crossing a national park as part of the approximation, the entrance fee must be paid and while being in the park follow the rules. That can essentially be reduced to no camping outside of designated camping areas, no open fires and no don't leave any trash. Preferably, keep to the parks rules and avoid open fires at least in (late) summer as the region gets pretty dry.

On the second and third day, the "termas tibias" (lukewarm thermal springs) is a good place offering a few camping sites, potable water and on top of that natural tubs with lukewarm water to relax after the ascent.

On the fourth day either the same camping site as on the first night or another camping site (point 6 on the map) is recommendable. Furthermore, there is the possibility of camping close to the waterfall "Vela de la Novia" (spanish for veil of the bride). The latter is not an official camping site, but seems to be used quite frequently and also quite some trash was left. If camping there, try to take some rubbish back to the starting point of the trek, where some trash bins are installed. 

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