Serra delle Ciavole

Note: The term 'Serra' is another word for mountain (ital. monte) and usually indicates mountains with either a prolonged summit ridge or a main peak with a number of subsidiary summits (or non-independent peaks). It finds a use especially in the southern parts of the Apennine mountains.

Routes

1. Serra delle Ciavole from 'Colle d'Impiso' - hiking

This hiking route is perhaps the easiest to the summit. Trailhead is 'Colle d'Impiso' (see Pollino massif page for details). Setting off from Colle d’Impiso, turn hard left and take the most evident forest track that winds down to the plains called 'Piani di Vacquarro'. Once reached the plains, follow this track for another 100 meters until you reach a fork where you may find one of the few remaining signposts of the whole area. From here, turn left and follow the arroyo of the torrent Frido, always keeping it on your left. Immediately after crossing a small rivulet, turn left again. After entering the beech forest, keep direction until you reach a point where the forest track, now to your right, steadily begins to gain height, and is winding its way up to an extensive clearance called 'Radura di Rummo'.

Keep following the forest track that after a while begins to steepen noticably before it flattens out again. A few more meters ahead, the forest suddenly opens wide into the first of the three central high plains of the Pollino massif: Piano Toscano. From a loose heap of bigger rocks on a small elevation, once marked by another signpost (Update: New signposting has been set up in 2014!), you can catch a view on almost all of the major peaks: Monte Pollino and the ‘Great Slip’ – to the south-east, Serra delle Ciavole (2,130m) and the almost pyramidal summit of Serra Dolcedorme (2,267m) – to the south-west.

Follow the trail in an eastern direction as it ascends gentle slopes towards the high plain 'Piana di Pollino' and the col 'Grande Porta del Pollino'. Before reaching the col, the actual hiking is changing direction. But it is also possible to scale the north ridge of Serra delle Ciavole and scramble all the way up to the summit. In winter the cliffs often hold considerable snow cornices. 

Therefore it can become hard to estimate the actual position of the ridge, and it might be advisable to stay a good deal away from the drop.

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2. Serra delle Ciavole from 'Madonna di Pollino' (or Fosso Iannace) - hiking

Another easy route, though some parts require a minimum of route finding skills (or a good map), especially with high snow and at some junctions. (Strange enough, where the path is most easily discernible it is almost over-signposted.) As the first part of this hiking path coincides with on of the normal routes to the summit of Serra di Crispo and the col 'Grande Porta del Pollino', it might help to follow these destination panels for a while.

Both trailheads can be reached from the village San Severino Lucana and are usually accessible, except after copious snow falls. From 'Madonna di Pollino', a santuary, the trail is somewhat easier and almost entirely under very old and impressive beeches. From 'Fosso Iannace', instead, the path is much shorter, and steeper, as it follows the narrow gorge of the Iannace torrent which will have to be crosses several times on wooden bridges. Some of them are in bad shape. Especially in late spring, with the torrent coming to life, expect some problems with crossing it.

The trails will meet at one point. From here on the terrain gets steeper and leads up to a spacious and beautiful glade, called 'Piano Iannace', situated just beneath the west face of Serra di Crispo.

Signposting is still good, and it should be easy to follow the broad forest track, even with high snow. Keep to it, because the forest is riddled with nasty digges, often full of mud or old an wet snow.

Later on, the forest is opening more and more, you should come across a small well. Keep direction (south-east) and follow the escarpment of Serra di Crispo until you reach the col, 'Grande Porta del Pollino'. Taking a little detour it is also possible to pay a visit to the so-called "Garden of the Gods" (ital. "Giardino degli Dei") and the "Dancing trees", both located below the onset of the south ridge of Serra di Crispo, and only about a kilometre or so from the col-

From the co it is possible to follow the ridge directly, and scramble up to the summit, or find a trail that ascends the gentle west slopes of the mountain, thus passing also the 'Cemetry of the Bosnian Pines', a large cluster of dead tree giants (same route options as 3.).

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3. Serra delle Ciavole from 'Lago Duglia' - hiking

This is a good alternative for anyone who would like to approach the mountain from the north (or north-west). The trailhead can be reached form the small village of Terranova di Pollino. The asphalt road, though, is usually in rather bad conditions and becomes regularly impassable both after abundant snowfall (all winter) and heavy rains (rest of the year).

The hiking path is mostly well signposted, with the usual red and white on tree trunks and large rocks, and should not pose major orientation problems. It first passes a small wellspring, then a shallow pond ('Lago Fondo') and later a quite distinctive rock formation, known as 'Pietra Castello'.
 
From a second, larger glade, called 'Piano dei Moranesi', the hiking path gains in steepness, though not in difficulty, and leads up to a col, 'Grande Porta del Pollino', which is situated between Serra di Crispo (right) and the onset of the north ridge of Serra delle Ciavole (left).

From the col it is possible to follow the ridge directly, and scramble up to the summit, or find a trail that ascends the gentle west slopes of the mountain, thus passing also the 'Cemetery of the Bosnian Pines', a large cluster of dead tree giants.

For the descent you may choose the same way, or return to the col and scale also the near summit of Serretta della Porticella (2,000 m) and Serra di Crispo (2,053 m). From there it is possible to complete a traverse, using the north ridge of the latter. At the base an alternative route branches to the right (east) which will take you back to the trailhead 'Lago Duglia'.

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4. Full traverse ("Traversata delle Ciavole") - hiking/scrambling

Very rewarding and one of the true high points of a visit to this mountain range. Of course, a traverse is possible both in a south-north and a north-south direction. However, the "classic" traverse starts at the foot of the south ridge, i.e. from the glade (or high plain) 'Piano di Acquafredda'. The fastest way to this high plain is from 'Colle d'Impiso', via the central high plains (see above, 1.) and the mountain pass 'Sella delle Ciavole' (see images below), situated right between the north ridge of Serra Dolcedorme and south ridge of Serra delle Ciavole.

The col can be reached by traversing the high plains in a southern direction. Hold somewhat to the left of the summit pyramid of Serra Dolcedorme and look for an accumulation of erratic boulders. On entering the forest the trail can become somewhat unclear. In case of doubt aim for the lowest point on the horizon. From the col the trail keeps more or less direction as it descends towards 'Piano di Acquafredda', a glade situated in a natural depression of glacial origin. There is also a natural (not perennial) well nearby.

At the other side of the glade the trail dips down again. Instead of following it, however, turn left and climb to the shoulder of the mountain. Keep climbing in an north-eastern direction until you come upon the actual ridge. There are several possibilities, but neither a trail nor any signposting. Some parts of the ridge are quite steep. In winter they can hold hard and iced snow. Although initially step kicking might seem an option, the situation can change drastically further up the ridge. It is highly advisable to look over your shoulder, once in a while, and examine the slope angle, and, also important, what lies at its lower end. (Note: A winter ascent will almost certainly require crampons and ice axe.)

The ridge terminates a few metres beneath the foresummit (2,127 m). From this point turn right (east), approach the cliff and keep following it a northern direction. The actual summit is already within reach and will reward you with some exceptional views.

In order to complete the traverse you will have to keep to the ridge also descending. Without snow it is an easy and diverting scramble on boulders and large rocks. In winter the cliff is usually topped by overhanging snow cornices. Pay close attention, as these cornices are hard to spot when facing north!

From the col ('Grande Porta del Pollino') it is possible to follow a trail which, in a western direction, descends further towards the central high plains and the forest track that will take you back to your trailhead. Especially in winter, and with foul weather, the descend should not be underestimated. The slope angle does not pose any problem, but on the vast moraine-like landscape it it easy to lose direction and descend one of the side valleys. In case of doubt keep rather a south-western direction. Once you reach the bottom of the high plains it will be easier to determine your precise position and take up the trail.

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5. West face ("La diretta") - scrambling/ mixed climbing

Another interesting route, and a quite straight forward choice, is a direct ascent of the mountain's very beautiful and rather steep west face. From the trailhead 'Colle d'Impiso' simply follow the same hiking path mentioned above (1.) and the signposting for 'Piano di Toscano' or 'Piani del Pollino'. From 'Piano di Toscano', the first of the central high plains, head straight and aim for the distinctive summit pyramid of Serra Dolcedorme (south). After traversing the first plain and the moraines that divide it from the second high plain ('Piano di Pollino'), head directly for the west face (left), cross the second plain and look for a number of large erratic boulders.

From this point you will have to cut the beech forest. Where the beeches give way to the Bosnian Pines the terrain steepens considerably and you may choose either to stick to the south-west ridge or find an individual route up the west face. Any of these routes eventually lead to the foresummit (2,127 m). In order to reach the summit (2,130 m) continue in an eastern direction and follow the cliffs north (left). All the way up you can enjoy a nice view on the col and prolonged north ridge of Serra Dolcedorme.

Note: Due to its exposure (west) the snow cover should remain quite stable during the day, but especially in the morning, and there is plenty of good rock. Anyway, crampons and ice axe will surely become handy at some point. - Also without snow the west face is well negotiable and an easy to moderate scramble. Be careful, though, not to harm the delicate vegetation, and, of course, double-check the rocks before using them as hand or foothold. You might also come upon extensive juniper shrubs and tufts of wet grass. They are of a rather unforgiving nature.

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6. East face (some considerations) - mixed climbing

Beheld from a distance, and a certain angle, the impressive east face of Serra delle Ciavole may look almost perpendicular. However, its inclination rarely exceeds 60 degrees. The wall features several broad rock buttresses and offers a great number of gullies of various length and difficulty, often broken by horizontal (snow covered) ledges. It is one of the more challenging destinations for anyone looking for individual mixed climbing routes in the Southern Apennines. Various routes have been climbed and named already. For detailed information about the routes see Sud verticale (in Italian language only). 

Because of its remoteness, and the relative inaccessibility that comes with it, it is climbed rather infrequently. Any conceivable approach is long and tiresome, mostly on pathless terrain and, in the winter months, often through knee-deep snow. An early start is mandatory; given its particular exposure (east), the wall is often discharging small rocks and pieces of ice already half an hour or so after sunrise. The approach through the forest should be made well before that time, and bringing a climbing helmet is a certainly a good idea.

One of the major hazards are spontaneous or man-triggered slab avalanches; expect an elevated risk especially on cloudless days (sun exposure) and shortly after sudden temperature rises, and cosult the Avalanche Radar (for the Southern Apennines) beforehand. Any late ascent (afternoon) should be prepared cautiously and not attempted under unfavourable conditions. Also a solo ascent is well within the realms of possibility. For a climping party of two, or more, a rope may provide additional safety. Keep in mind that on certain routes some pitches may require more than the usual 60 metres. A 60 m single rope, however, is the minimum you will need on most routes in order to get from one (halfway safe) stance to the next. The rock quality is mostely precarious, to say the least, and useful cracks to be found won't take more than small nuts or hexes. At least a couple of short snow anchors and a selection of old fashioned pitons are a good alternative, or addition, as they may fit into the type of small, narrow holes and cracks most prevalently encountered. And don't forget to bring plenty of slings and accessory cord.

Here a few impressions from one of the routes of the East face: Via Piccolo Dente del Gigante, 400 m, AD / 65° / II+ / AI

On location, carefully check snow conditions, examine potential run-out zones for debris before choosing a route and look out for conspicuous glide cracks in the steeper parts of the gullies. In case of doubt it might be tempting to turn to the limestone rock buttresses. But it is better not to rely too much on them. Generally much steeper than the gullies, they may provide fallback options for critical passages but, as mentioned above, the rock quality is mostly poor and placing protection can become a serious issue.