Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 53.06940°N / 4.181°W |
County: | Gwynedd |
Activities: | Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling |
Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
Elevation: | 2290 ft / 698 m |
Mynydd Mawr, which literally means 'Big Mountain', is a hill in the northern Eifionydd of Snowdonia. Despite its audacious title, it is not big, not even by Britain's modest standards, only just managing to reach half the height of its westward companion, Snowdon. Its summit also lacks the charisma of its neighbour, being neither overly prominent nor particularly dramatic, and the means at which it is reached is unlikely to thrill or excite if judged solely on its own merits. But in spite of these shortcomings the mountain is not without its charm, for the effort expelled in ascending its slopes is generously rewarded with one of the best views in Wales. Lain out before its inconspicuous summit is a vista par excellence, encompassing the sweeping arm of the Lleyn Peninsula, the enticing peaks and troughs of the Nantlle Ridge, the familiar but never tiresome bastion of Yr Wyddfa, and beyond the turbulent waters of the Menai Straights, the island of Anglesey, Wales' breadbasket and ancient home of the druids, unfolds into the distance. The view is not the only enticement; if you're a rock climber, the mountain is home to a wealth of esoteric delights. Perhaps the most impressive of these is the south facing Craig y Bera, which offers a plethora of long mountain routes to anyone who is willing to take on the crag's unpredictable rock. It's thanks to the reputation of this rock, combined with the necessary long approaches, that the crag receives few visitors, and so for those willing to brave it, glorious solitude awaits, and this in one of Britain's most well trodden areas. |
Rock ClimbingDue to its slightly detached position and consequent long approaches, combined with tales of dubious rock and historical access issues, Mynydd Mawr has never been as popular with climbers as it perhaps should. The mountain's climbing is split between three areas – Craig Cwm Du in the north, Castell Cidwm in the east and finally, Craig y Bera in the south. Climbs are listed from left to right, and are graded and rated with the aid of the Climbers’ Club Guide to Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn (Eifionydd), so for full descriptions, please refer to this book. Routes are graded using the British Adjectival Grading System. Technical grades are generally only given to climbs graded adjectivally as Severe (S) or above. A conversion table of international climbing grades by SP member Corax is available HERE! Bolting is strictly prohibited on the crags listed here. |
Route Symbols:
Craig Cwm DuCraig Cwm Du occupies a dark and quiet corner on the mountain's northern flank. The crag's routes have a strong mountain character and were once popular with the pioneering climbers of the Edwardian era. Unfortunately much of the rock is quite friable and loose and it has since fallen from grace. |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1. | Jezebel | 50m | VD | ||||
2. | Eve's Folly | 81m | 4 | D | |||
3. | Adam Rib | 121m | 4 | HS | |||
4. | Knight's Move Climb | 135m | 5 | VD | |||
5. | Poverty Street | 83m | 3 | VS | |||
6. | Medicare | 86m | 3 | S | |||
7. | Saxifrage Rob | 80m | VD | ||||
8. | Manchester Rib | 81m | 3 | S | |||
9. | Pis-Aller Rib | 141m | 6 | S | |||
10. | Yellow Buttress | 155m | 6 | S | |||
11. | Grass Pitch Gullly | 150m | 2 plus scramblng | VD | |||
12. | Lichen Ridge | 135m | 6 | VD | |||
13. | Leo's Wall | 120m | VD | ||||
14. | Fox Route | 64m | VD | ||||
15. | Oppenauer Slab | 55m | VD | ||||
16. | Raven Buttress | 60m | VS | ||||
17. | Dobbin | 50m | VD |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
18. | Cities of Red Night | 40m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
19. | The Legend of Johnny Toto | 46m | 1 | E2 | 5b |
Castell Cidwm |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
20. | Del Cap Corner | 16m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
21. | Extreme Unction | 25m | 1 | E3 | 6a | ||
22. | The Curver | 55m | 2 | E2 | 4c, 4c | ||
23. | Light Years | 37m | 1 | E5 | 6b | ||
24. | The Straightener | 39m | 2 | E2 | 5b, 4c | ||
25. | The Erg | 45m | 2 | E6 | 5c, 6b | ||
26. | Equinox | 37m | 1 | E4 | 6a | ||
27. | Potency | 64m | 2 | E6 | 6b, 6b | ||
28. | Balance of Power | 61m | 2 | E5 | 6a, 5c | ||
29. | Central Wall | 54m | 2 | E3 | 5c, 5c | ||
30. | Heading for Heights | 48m | 2 | E5 | 6b, 5c | ||
31. | Vertigo | 39m | 2 | HVS | 5a, 4c | ||
32. | Glwm | 81m | 4 | E2 | 5b, 5a, 5b, 5a | ||
33. | Glasnost | 70m | 2 | E5 | 6a, 5c | ||
34. | Dwmsday | 51m | 2 | E5 | 6a, 6b | ||
35. | Dwm | 54m | 3 | E3 | 5a, 5b, 6a | ||
36. | Freedwm Roof | 63m | 3 | E7 | 5a, 5b, 6c | ||
37. | Tramgo | 41m | 1 | E4 | 6a | ||
38. | Hang 'em High | 34m | 1 | E5 | 6a | ||
39. | Howl at the Moon | 34m | 1 | E7 | 6c | ||
40. | Walter Buffalo | 21m | 1 | E4 | 6a | ||
41. | Cidwm Girdle | 181m | 8 | E4 | 5a, 5b, 5b, 5a, 5b, 6a, 5b, 6a, 4c | ||
42. | Hors d''œuvre | 69m | 3 | VS | |||
43. | Finale Wall | 66m | 3 | VD | |||
44. | Wolf's Buttress | 120m | 4 | D | |||
45. | Lamb's Leap | 111m | 6 | S | |||
46. | The Mystery II | 116m | 4 | HS | 4a | ||
47. | Acrophily | 115m | 5 | VS | 4c, 4c, 4b |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
48. | Reason in Revolt | 102m | 5 | HS | |||
49. | No Highway | 75m | 4 | HS | |||
50. | The Devils | 112m | 5 | E3 | 5a, 5c, 5a, 5c | ||
51. | Voice in the Wilderness | 121m | 4 | E5 | 5c, 6a, 6b | ||
52. | Y Credwr | 104m | 3 | E4 | 6a,6a | ||
53. | Angel Pavement | 183m | 5 | S | |||
54. | The Sceptic | 138m | 3 | E2 | 4c, 5b | ||
55. | Guardian Angel | 76m | 3 | E3 | 5c | ||
56. | Primrose Path | 134m | 5 | VD | |||
57. | Primrose Path – Perdition Finish | 185m | 7 | VS | |||
58. | Pinnacle Ridge | 120m | D | ||||
59. | Sentries' Ridge | 110m | D |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Adjectival Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
60. | The Magic Sod | 17m | 1 | D | |||
61. | Terry Tomb Tome | 10m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
62. | Another Day | 15m | 1 | HVS | 5b | ||
63. | Vortex of Desire | 15m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
64. | The Pleasures of Wind | 15m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
65. | The Pump Principle | 15m | 1 | E2 | 5c | ||
66. | Gael Forces | 15m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
67. | Gael in a Gale | 15m | 1 | HS | 4a | ||
68. | Del Nino | 15m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
69. | Spinning in the Wind | 15m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
70. | Glorified Barman with Attitude | 15m | 1 | S | |||
71. | Lies, Damn Lies, and Statistics | 15m | 1 | HVS | 5b | ||
72. | Up Your Hacienda | 15m | 1 | E1 | 5c | ||
73. | Out! Out! Out! | 15m | 1 | HVS | 5b | ||
74. | The Man in White | 15m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
75. | Plinthing for Beginners | 15m | 1 | E1 | 5b | ||
76. | Cruppered | 15m | 1 | E1 | 5b | ||
77. | To Rest is to Rust | 13m | 1 | E2 | 5b | ||
78. | Turf Wars | 14m | 1 | HVS | 5a | ||
79. | Sod's Corner | 15m | 1 | S | 4a | ||
80. | The Windtakers | 15m | 1 | E3 | 5c | ||
81. | Ken's Crack | 15m | 1 | VS | 4c | ||
82. | Play It Smooth | 14m | 1 | HVS | 5b | ||
82. | In Search of Perpetual Motion | 20m | 1 | D |
No. | Name | Length | Pitches | Scottish Grade | Technical Grade | Quality | Restrictions |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1. | Eden Gully | 130m | I/II | ||||
2. | Saxifrage Gully | 130m | III | ||||
3. | Avalanche Gully | 150m | III |
This section displays the mountain conditions for Snowdonia, of which Mynydd Mawr is a part. Click on the widget for maps and further information. This Snowdonia weather forecast is generated by the Met Office Weather Widget |
The most reliable conditions are in the summer. The gear needed depends entirely on the routes you plan to do. A hike will require all the gear normally require for a hike in Wales, remember this Snowdonia so be sure to pack full waterproofs. Easier scrambles and rock routes will only require a moderate rack, while longer harder routes will require a full rack with a good compliment of cams. A singe 60 metre rope should serve well on most routes, however, twin or double ropes would be a wise choice for the harder stuff. |
Mynydd Mawr (SH 539 548) is located on the north western edge of the Snowdonia National Park, just to the west of the park’s main attraction – Snowdon (SH 609 544). The best access is off the A4085 which runs between Caernarfon (SH 481 629) in the north and Beddgelert (SH 589 482) in the South. It would take a long time to try and explain all the different approaches to this road, so I would suggest consulting Google Maps,/font> or equivalent for further instructions. Castell Cidwm (SH 550 554) can be approached directly from the A4085 by parking along the road near Planwydd (SH 568 539) and then following the path along the western shore of Llyn Cwellyn to the crag’s base. Craig Cwm Du (SH 537 550) can also be reached directly from the main road by parking around Betws Garmon (SH 546 563) and following a public right of way through the forest and into Cwm Du. If you plan to ascend the mountain via the Foel Rudd ridge, or climb at Craig y Bera or Clogwyn y Garreg then you will need to turn off the A4805 and onto the B4418 at Rhyd Ddu (SH 659 529), which will take you to the small car park at Llyn Dywarchen (SH 559 533). |
No red tape or access issues here! For climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) runs a Regional Access Database, which holds mountain/crag specific information on matters of conservation and access, including issues such as nesting restrictions, nature designations and preferred parking: If you are in any doubt about any particular access arrangement, or need to report an incident, you should contact your local BMC Access Representative or the BMC Access Officers for Wales: Elfyn Jones. |
There’s an almost unlimited supply of accommodation within the Snowdonia National Park so it would be inappropriate to list it all here. For budget accommodation it’s worth checking out some of the following sites: Youth Hostel Association in Wales There are a number of YHA hostels in the area, the nearest of which is the Snowdon Ranger in Rhyd Ddu. The Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre in Capel Curig also has a bunkhouse, and its own indoor climbing wall if you’re still feeing energetic after your day in the mountains. |
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Government Bodies and Official Organisations Snowdonia National Park Authority Association of National Park Authorities Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales Hiking, Climbing and Mountaineering Organisations and Companies British Mountaineering Council Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre Weather Tourist Information North Wales Tourism Partnership Local Information from Gwynedd.com Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net Travel Welsh Public Transport Information Accommodation Youth Hostel Association in Wales Maps and Guidebooks Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop Wildlife and Conservation |