NW Ridge

Approach

The trail begins at the Plattjen cable car base station (1,840m), located at the south edge of Saas Fee. Begin climbing on the paved path (signposted to Plattjen), passing above the cable car station, and then on the continuing trail which zig-zags up grassy slopes to reach a junction of trails (and signpost) at 2,054m. At this point, take the right-hand path in the direction of Felskinn, contouring south along the slopes and crossing a small stream to skirt the lower portion of the Mittaghorn NW Ridge. Eventually the Maste 4 mid-station of the Felskinn cable car (Metro Alpin) comes into view, at which time, keep alert for a non-distinct path at 2,332m heading left uphill in the direction of the ridge and one of the cable car support masts (with a large avalanche barrier to protect it). The path is somewhat indistinct initially but is easy to follow once located. Note that the start of this trail can also be reached by descending from the Maste 4 mid-station of the Felskinn cable car (2,500m), crossing the moraine slopes of the Egginer glacier (now almost non-existent). Either way, locate this trail and continue upwards, zig-zagging up the grassy combe to pass within 10m of the aforementioned cable car mast. After a few more switchbacks, the trail climbs to the NW Ridge itself, which is gained at approximately 2,500m.

Route Description

Ascent via the NW Ridge -- 4-5 hours

Now follow the ridge crest with some easy scrambling to reach an old signpost at 2,687m. It is not necessary to rope up through this section, since there is more easy hiking just beyond. Some more scrambling on nice slabs leads to a broad, grassy portion of the ridge which is climbed easily on a clear trail to the predominantly rocky section of the ridge. A rope may be desired from here on, as the route follows the crest of the ridge up slabby rock (mostly II with short steps of III). The steep sections can be climbed easily using standard "alpine belay" tactics and static anchors are not required. It is also possible to skirt some of the steeper sections, most often on the left (north side) of the ridge, although the rock becomes rather loose and it is often taxing to regain the ridge. I recommend staying on the ridge crest whenever possible. Higher up, at roughly 2,850m, there is an especially steep section which can be climbed directly or on the right via a loose, gravel filled gully. Shortly thereafter, the final steep section below the summit is reached. This can be climbed easily on the ridge itself, or slightly to the left, in one rope-length with the difficulties no greater than III+. Eventually, the summit cross comes into view and is reached after a few more meters of scrambling.

Descent via the East Flank -- 2 hours
From the summit cross, head down in the direction of the SSW Ridge. After only about 10m of descent, locate the steep trail heading down with views of the dammed lake above Saas Almagel. There are cairns to mark the way initially. Continue down over boulders with the trail becoming more obvious as altitude is lost. The trail descends steeply in tight switchbacks with loose gravel and rocks underfoot and soon enters a broad grassy ravine which it follows for a further 200m. After 500m of total descent, a prominent trail is intersected which leads right to the Britannia Hut and left to the Plattjen lift station. To reach the cable car station, turn left and follow the trail around the NE ridge of the Mittaghorn to enter a large boulder field. The way through this area is marked with the usual Swiss red and white paint splashes on the rocks. These marking are found in great abundance and it is clear that much effort has gone into improving the way through the chaos. At one point, the trail passes by a large stone pyramid with a metal Swiss flag beside it. Shortly thereafter, the lift station comes into view. This can be taken back to Saas Fee, or the more ambitious (and money conscious) can follow the trail which descends directly below it.

Essential Gear

Rope -- A 30m section of 9.5mm or similar is sufficient, since no abseils or long pitches of sustained climbing are required.

Rock Gear -- A few cams (BD Camalots 0.5-2) and possibly a set of stoppers. These are needed only to protect the difficult moves where desired.

Helmet -- Protection against rockfall, although the danger is minimal on the ridge and there are unlikely to be many parties on the route.

Miscellaneous Info

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