Namaste- 5.12a

Namaste- 5.12a

  • Namaste- 5.12a/
  • A fantastic route in a fantastical place. This Conrad Anker route goes down as one of my all time favorite sport routes anywhere in North America. A long sustained 150’er that requires double ropes for the rappel. It starts out way overhung and really never cuts much slack on the gravity situation until the last 20’ or so. The first bolt is off the ground a bit and until you reach the ladder like sandstone rungs, the beginning is the crux of the route. When you rap, you practically end up 40’-50’ away from the wall, which defines how overhung the route is. However, the holds are almost all huge jugs making the actual moves themselves no harder than 5.10. There is a finger hold or two, but the real crux is getting the route clean without pumping out, if you are human. Sun never hit the wall in June. Tons of birds and vegetation, offering kind of an alpine flare this deep in the canyon with lingering snow in June. 14 bolts to a three bolt fixed anchor. Kolob Canyons, Zion National Park, Utah, June, 2009
    Dow Williams
    on Jun 14, 2009 2:12 pm
    Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
    Image ID: 521407

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    jmc

    jmc - Jun 14, 2009 3:53 pm - Voted 10/10

    Kinda hard to make out

    Can't quite tell what I'm looking at. I saw the other pics of the route so I assume what I am seeing is someone on the route, photo from underneath the overhang. It looks like they are leaning back and looking up, so from this perspective their head is lowest. One foot is pointing straight at the camera so that leg disappears. Is that right?

    jmc

    jmc - Jun 14, 2009 3:55 pm - Voted 10/10

    Re: Kinda hard to make out

    I forgot to add, great set of photos! I really spent some time going over these. I really enjoyed them, keep'em coming.

    Dow Williams

    Dow Williams - Jun 14, 2009 4:08 pm - Hasn't voted

    Re: Kinda hard to make out

    I think you nailed it. Best to belay a lead climber on this route directly below the first bolt because of the extreme overhang. So this shot is looking up from that angle. In this case the leader is hang dogging. Neither of us could get this 150' of overhang clean. Way too pumpy, zero rests....but the moves are more like 5.10 vs 5.12....pitch gets its rating (Conrad Anker) from the full on assault of the forearms versus the technical aspect...great climbing venue, I have run a trail on one of the other forks of Taylor Creek, but this was my first time back in the south fork. Tons of neat lines. Some that we hope to explore as FA's. Cheers.

    Viewing: 1-3 of 3