My climb
"For my first climb at more than 5500 m, that has been an epic story ! After 30 minutes my local guide collapsed due to sorroche (faintness due to altitude). I had, thus to do the climb with the young french people (Alix & Charles) that were with me till the midst of the ascent (where they stopped)and then continue all alone. At the summit I met a group of local guides that went up from an other side of the mountain. These moments were tough but magical. The descent have been quick (1,5hrs) and funny comparing to the climb (8,5hrs). I recommend the Nevado de Acay for the healthy people who want a first experience of a high altitude climb. Guides can be hired in almost every tourism agencies in Salta (Argentina)."
Overview
This climb begins at approx. 4900m., where the car can not go any further (20 km of paved road from San Antonio de Los Cobres, then 40 min of tough trail only accessible with a 4wd car). Then a simple but tiring climbs begins on small to medium rocks on a relatively steep slope. Two false summits are to be reached before the final one. At the summit, a small cross indicates "Nevado de Acay, 5950 m." The climb can be done in 6 to 9 hours. It is recommended to begin the climb very early in the morning, as sun and wind can be very tough during the day. The descent is quick (1 to 2 hours) if done in the steep combe filled with sand and little stones that is clearly visible from the 2nd false summit. Although it is a rather simple climb, bear in mind that the altitude complicates everyting and that wind can be very strong and snow is to be expected at any time of the year.
Red Tape
No permit nor fees are required
When To Climb
Best climbing months are : January, February, June, July and August
Camping
Camping is not restricted on the moutain. The ascent of this summit can be done within 6 to 9 hours after a short night in the village of San Antonio de los Cobres. Camping is therefore not compulsory.
Mountain Conditions
As the Nevado de Acay is a remote mountain located in a poor region of South America, there is no webcam or dedicated web site. To get current informations on it, the best is to contact the Salta Tourist Board or any tourism agency in Salta specialised in climbing (try this one : guideenfrancais@hotmail.com)