We started this route on a nice day. 1st pitch: one unpleasant hard move, the rest quite loose and easy. 2nd pitch: easy, and despite the rock quality and some earth quite nice, actually, until the rope starts to drag. :) 3rd pitch: one fairly hard 7- move for the 6th grade :) then a steep forest. I (we both) didn't like the route, we moved to the "Gaisbauer-Jug" and finally enjoyed climbing.
Was the Suderer much better afterwards? I can't understand, how this should be a 'must do', neither climbed freely, nor using the tree at the crux in 3rd pitch (else it isn't 6).
Yes, if you don't like that green salad grows into your mouth during climbing!:-)
We liked it (o.k, except first pitch which is too Rax-like - grass and leaves).
So you changed to Gaisbauer-Jug in the 4th pitch?
You missed 2 very nice pitches (possibly the best of the route), a good traverse and then a great crack.
Tastes are different: E.g. we didn't like Bruderherz, also a new route right of Richterkante, praised by some colleagues.
We couldn't understand why they praised it: loose stone, very indifferent difficulty, in the lower part easy but very well protected, then suddenly a very hard pitch with less protection than before, and after it easy again (though the last pitches were quite nice).
O.K., I'll remove the "must do", maybe it came from the excitement about the new route, but I also know a lot nicer climbs at Rax. :-)
Now I finally added some impressions from what I really liked - Bartlrisse and Kowelkapfeiler. Hope you will enjoy the reading, and the climbing as well. :-)
I did Direkte Richterkante last year, and enjoyed it. Bruderherz didn't seem to be nice even when looking from there.
dedo - Feb 18, 2006 9:36 pm - Voted 7/10
So I'm a suderer :-)We started this route on a nice day. 1st pitch: one unpleasant hard move, the rest quite loose and easy. 2nd pitch: easy, and despite the rock quality and some earth quite nice, actually, until the rope starts to drag. :) 3rd pitch: one fairly hard 7- move for the 6th grade :) then a steep forest. I (we both) didn't like the route, we moved to the "Gaisbauer-Jug" and finally enjoyed climbing.
Was the Suderer much better afterwards? I can't understand, how this should be a 'must do', neither climbed freely, nor using the tree at the crux in 3rd pitch (else it isn't 6).
herbie - Feb 18, 2006 10:23 pm - Hasn't voted
SudererYes, if you don't like that green salad grows into your mouth during climbing!:-)
We liked it (o.k, except first pitch which is too Rax-like - grass and leaves).
So you changed to Gaisbauer-Jug in the 4th pitch?
You missed 2 very nice pitches (possibly the best of the route), a good traverse and then a great crack.
Tastes are different: E.g. we didn't like Bruderherz, also a new route right of Richterkante, praised by some colleagues.
We couldn't understand why they praised it: loose stone, very indifferent difficulty, in the lower part easy but very well protected, then suddenly a very hard pitch with less protection than before, and after it easy again (though the last pitches were quite nice).
O.K., I'll remove the "must do", maybe it came from the excitement about the new route, but I also know a lot nicer climbs at Rax. :-)
dedo - Jun 21, 2006 8:39 pm - Voted 7/10
Re: SudererNow I finally added some impressions from what I really liked - Bartlrisse and Kowelkapfeiler. Hope you will enjoy the reading, and the climbing as well. :-)
I did Direkte Richterkante last year, and enjoyed it. Bruderherz didn't seem to be nice even when looking from there.