Isn't there a second hut now? Updated beta would be great. Cheers!
lenazavaroni - May 24, 2022 2:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Two-day Huayana Potosi climb
I've just completed the two-day climb up Huayana Potosi. It went much as has been described on this site, although I was a bit out of shape and running on empty most of the time! This made my time 8hrs 20 mins, getting to 'la cumbre' at 9:20am. The other two in the group made it by 6am. The weather was optimal (May), meaning crisp, crunchy snow and great visibility. The views from the top in the brilliant sunshine were obviously spectacular, and one could see Lake Titicaca in the distance. I went with Jiwaki, whom I can't praise enough for their professionalism and, in my case, patience!
We just climbed Huayna Potosi in 2 days (we cycled to the base camp from Condoriri so we were relatively confident of acclimatisation). We booked through Jiwaki tour agency who were incredibly helpful in organising rental equipment and water to be brought to base camp for us. Equipment was generally pretty good; ice axes weren't sized but were adequately sharp and not rusty, crampons were pre-set for our boots, helmets and harnesses we're both Petzl and in good condition, additional clothing was offered (we didn't need it) and was basic but very warm looking!
We booked a private guide ~1300BOB but for logistics and convenience they ran the first part of the ascent to the high camp as a group, before we made the final ascent with our guide. The first part of the climb was extremely well run; great food, motivated and friendly guides and time to chat and meet the other climbers in the very comfortable 'Happy Day' refuge.
The ascent to the summit went really well, the weather was excellent and we had amazing conditions most of the way. Our guide was both really competent and great to chat to on the way up (William's English was excellent, a real rarity in SA). We summitted around 6:30am, perfect timing for sunrise and were back down to the high camp around 8:30am.
All in our experience was incredibly positive; we had considered doing the ascent without a guide (partly due to reports on this site and partly due to experiences in Peru) but in the end we were so so happy we opted for a guided ascent. Unlike our Peruvian guide (who was competent but uncommunicative in Spanish or English), William (and the other Jiwaki guides) really enhanced the experience. We also thought the route finding (around crevasses and across the final glacier approach) was more complex than indicated in other people's reports (although this was likely due to the lateness of the season and the general state of the glacier, I guess conditions and difficulty vary greatly). We didn't find the ascent to be technically difficult, our guide set up an abseil for the short section on to the ridge but down climbing would have been fine for a semi confident climber.
Despite reports of 50% successful summit rate, all of the Jiwaki clients made it to the summit that day (there was a huge variety of experience and acclimatization levels) and I think a lot of that can be accredited to the guides.
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Jiwaki to anyone considering climbing Huayna Potosi. Our guide William can also be contacted directly on WhatsApp (+591 63194938) for ascents of any of the peaks around La Paz and further afield, again his English was excellent, his mountain competency was extremely high and his enthusiasm was infectious!
gilles debray - May 29, 2003 8:06 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentIf youé planning to climb Huayna Potosi you should contact Bolivian Journeys. We did and it is a really good company, their guides are amazing, ask for Eulogio, Vicente or Luis.
Haliku - Apr 8, 2008 9:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Second hut?Isn't there a second hut now? Updated beta would be great. Cheers!
lenazavaroni - May 24, 2022 2:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Two-day Huayana Potosi climbI've just completed the two-day climb up Huayana Potosi. It went much as has been described on this site, although I was a bit out of shape and running on empty most of the time! This made my time 8hrs 20 mins, getting to 'la cumbre' at 9:20am. The other two in the group made it by 6am. The weather was optimal (May), meaning crisp, crunchy snow and great visibility. The views from the top in the brilliant sunshine were obviously spectacular, and one could see Lake Titicaca in the distance. I went with Jiwaki, whom I can't praise enough for their professionalism and, in my case, patience!
benbrough1 - Oct 1, 2022 7:24 am - Hasn't voted
2 Day Huayna Potosi ascent with William of JiwakiWe just climbed Huayna Potosi in 2 days (we cycled to the base camp from Condoriri so we were relatively confident of acclimatisation). We booked through Jiwaki tour agency who were incredibly helpful in organising rental equipment and water to be brought to base camp for us. Equipment was generally pretty good; ice axes weren't sized but were adequately sharp and not rusty, crampons were pre-set for our boots, helmets and harnesses we're both Petzl and in good condition, additional clothing was offered (we didn't need it) and was basic but very warm looking!
We booked a private guide ~1300BOB but for logistics and convenience they ran the first part of the ascent to the high camp as a group, before we made the final ascent with our guide. The first part of the climb was extremely well run; great food, motivated and friendly guides and time to chat and meet the other climbers in the very comfortable 'Happy Day' refuge.
The ascent to the summit went really well, the weather was excellent and we had amazing conditions most of the way. Our guide was both really competent and great to chat to on the way up (William's English was excellent, a real rarity in SA). We summitted around 6:30am, perfect timing for sunrise and were back down to the high camp around 8:30am.
All in our experience was incredibly positive; we had considered doing the ascent without a guide (partly due to reports on this site and partly due to experiences in Peru) but in the end we were so so happy we opted for a guided ascent. Unlike our Peruvian guide (who was competent but uncommunicative in Spanish or English), William (and the other Jiwaki guides) really enhanced the experience. We also thought the route finding (around crevasses and across the final glacier approach) was more complex than indicated in other people's reports (although this was likely due to the lateness of the season and the general state of the glacier, I guess conditions and difficulty vary greatly). We didn't find the ascent to be technically difficult, our guide set up an abseil for the short section on to the ridge but down climbing would have been fine for a semi confident climber.
Despite reports of 50% successful summit rate, all of the Jiwaki clients made it to the summit that day (there was a huge variety of experience and acclimatization levels) and I think a lot of that can be accredited to the guides.
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Jiwaki to anyone considering climbing Huayna Potosi. Our guide William can also be contacted directly on WhatsApp (+591 63194938) for ascents of any of the peaks around La Paz and further afield, again his English was excellent, his mountain competency was extremely high and his enthusiasm was infectious!