Mike McL - Aug 7, 2024 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2017
Crystal Crag
With Brad
Dow Williams - Jul 30, 2024 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2024
North Arete
Trying to finish all the routes in Chris's Supertopo guide and this is one one of the last ones. Soloed. The first two pitches follow the chimney system with the 1st pitch being the best pitch of the day by far. I thought the MP.com and Supertopo beta was lacking a bit on where to go from atop the 2nd pitch. I don't recollect anyone discussing trending left, but that is what you do. From a solo perspective, straight up from the top of pitch two is a right facing (not left facing as noted somewhere) closed corner with exposed slab. The topo itself does show that you proceed up the "blocky chimney/gully" but has it sort of straight atop the 2nd pitch with an arrow pointing right. Actually you traverse up and left to a blocky arete of sorts, no chimney. Then you enter a chossy left facing corner above to the ridge line. The final crystal laden rock you climb to the ridge is straight out of some fairy tale. Very cool. Will return with my friend and his 8yr old twins to give this a go with them. They will be impressed with this final section. There is an established rap down to the col after the "middle peak", but of course it is easily downclimbed as well.
Simkin - Aug 8, 2017 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2017
Free solo
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm5C3N807-0
whatdoIknow - Jun 30, 2016 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2016
very enjoyable climb
Fun climb, great views
millertime300 - Oct 3, 2014 7:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2014
Good times
Great Route
dkangas - Aug 18, 2014 2:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2014
Unique
Pitches 1 and 2 were ho-hum. The start of pitch 3 to me was the crux and the most fun: steep with some stemming. The crystal section was "dazzling," but easy climbing (and loose).
Climbed the variation mentioned in ST guidebook with my brother. Skipped the South Summit due to incoming thunder storms.
Alex Wood - Nov 13, 2013 5:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2013
Windy
and cold! But great climbing and beautiful rock
oliverkalt - Sep 26, 2012 1:00 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2012
Good climb, great views
We did this the day after Bear Creek Spire. My partner was in a foul mood all morning but the crystal pitch healed him...
Deb - Sep 13, 2012 5:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011
Happy 4th!
What a beautiful climb and so much snow to wade through to get to the base! The crystal pitch was blindly bright.
soslaw - Sep 24, 2011 12:34 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2011
N. Arete
Enjoyable moderate route with a short approach and good rock.
Vitaliy M. - Sep 6, 2011 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2011
Crystal who cares
A fun little climb, but have no idea whats so amazing about this crystal pitch...I guess it is kind of cool that the rock is different, but not that big of a deal. Short approach is what I liked the most. Couldn't get much pro into that dihedral before the end of the crystal, but the climbing wasn't hard..
I climbed some variation of the North Arête. The crystal pitch scared the $hit out of me because it was so chossy. No solid places to place gear and my belayer was right at the bottom of the chute. I thought the summit pitch was by far the most solid and fun.
biz - Oct 28, 2010 6:59 pm Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2010
North Arete
A fun little 3 pitch climb with a short, fun ridge traverse to the summit. Very enjoyable.
haishan - Oct 19, 2010 11:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
very best quality
5.8 variation, stayed left of main line all the way to the crystal vein. beautiful climbing, with great ridge scramble finish.
PellucidWombat - Sep 14, 2010 5:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010
In the Area, and 5.7? Really?
so I couldn't pass off ticking off one of the routes listed in Croft's guidebook :-). Led the first and third pitch of the N Arete & simul-climbed to the summit. The first pitch really felt like 5.5 to me, and I almost climbed through the crux before placing my first piece of pro.
The crystal pitch is what makes this climb truly memorable, though the ridge traverse actually seemed like more fun than the climb to gain it!
Descended the S Ridge, taking a difficult line (cl. 4-5). Then I realized I left my sneakers on the summit, so I climbed up and down an easier line (cl. 3).
JHH60 - Aug 27, 2010 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007
Crystal Energy
Loved the Crystal pitch!
SKI - Aug 2, 2010 10:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2010
Pretty sweet moves to the crystal pitch
Did anyone else find a traverse to a face climb near the top of the second pitch? It was AWESOME!
Mike McL - Aug 7, 2024 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2017
Crystal CragWith Brad
Dow Williams - Jul 30, 2024 3:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2024
North AreteTrying to finish all the routes in Chris's Supertopo guide and this is one one of the last ones. Soloed. The first two pitches follow the chimney system with the 1st pitch being the best pitch of the day by far. I thought the MP.com and Supertopo beta was lacking a bit on where to go from atop the 2nd pitch. I don't recollect anyone discussing trending left, but that is what you do. From a solo perspective, straight up from the top of pitch two is a right facing (not left facing as noted somewhere) closed corner with exposed slab. The topo itself does show that you proceed up the "blocky chimney/gully" but has it sort of straight atop the 2nd pitch with an arrow pointing right. Actually you traverse up and left to a blocky arete of sorts, no chimney. Then you enter a chossy left facing corner above to the ridge line. The final crystal laden rock you climb to the ridge is straight out of some fairy tale. Very cool. Will return with my friend and his 8yr old twins to give this a go with them. They will be impressed with this final section. There is an established rap down to the col after the "middle peak", but of course it is easily downclimbed as well.
Bill562 - Sep 5, 2017 8:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2017
Smoky summer dayWith Aysel G.
Simkin - Aug 8, 2017 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2017
Free soloHere is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm5C3N807-0
whatdoIknow - Jun 30, 2016 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2016
very enjoyable climbFun climb, great views
millertime300 - Oct 3, 2014 7:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2014
Good timesGreat Route
dkangas - Aug 18, 2014 2:59 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2014
UniquePitches 1 and 2 were ho-hum. The start of pitch 3 to me was the crux and the most fun: steep with some stemming. The crystal section was "dazzling," but easy climbing (and loose).
cbeats - Jul 28, 2014 12:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2014
N. Arete variationClimbed the variation mentioned in ST guidebook with my brother. Skipped the South Summit due to incoming thunder storms.
Alex Wood - Nov 13, 2013 5:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2013
Windyand cold! But great climbing and beautiful rock
oliverkalt - Sep 26, 2012 1:00 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2012
Good climb, great viewsWe did this the day after Bear Creek Spire. My partner was in a foul mood all morning but the crystal pitch healed him...
Deb - Sep 13, 2012 5:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011
Happy 4th!What a beautiful climb and so much snow to wade through to get to the base! The crystal pitch was blindly bright.
soslaw - Sep 24, 2011 12:34 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2011
N. AreteEnjoyable moderate route with a short approach and good rock.
Vitaliy M. - Sep 6, 2011 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2011
Crystal who caresA fun little climb, but have no idea whats so amazing about this crystal pitch...I guess it is kind of cool that the rock is different, but not that big of a deal. Short approach is what I liked the most. Couldn't get much pro into that dihedral before the end of the crystal, but the climbing wasn't hard..
Hyadventure - Jul 25, 2011 6:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011
Some variation of the North ArêteI climbed some variation of the North Arête. The crystal pitch scared the $hit out of me because it was so chossy. No solid places to place gear and my belayer was right at the bottom of the chute. I thought the summit pitch was by far the most solid and fun.
biz - Oct 28, 2010 6:59 pm Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2010
North AreteA fun little 3 pitch climb with a short, fun ridge traverse to the summit. Very enjoyable.
haishan - Oct 19, 2010 11:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
very best quality5.8 variation, stayed left of main line all the way to the crystal vein. beautiful climbing, with great ridge scramble finish.
PellucidWombat - Sep 14, 2010 5:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010
In the Area, and 5.7? Really?so I couldn't pass off ticking off one of the routes listed in Croft's guidebook :-). Led the first and third pitch of the N Arete & simul-climbed to the summit. The first pitch really felt like 5.5 to me, and I almost climbed through the crux before placing my first piece of pro.
The crystal pitch is what makes this climb truly memorable, though the ridge traverse actually seemed like more fun than the climb to gain it!
Descended the S Ridge, taking a difficult line (cl. 4-5). Then I realized I left my sneakers on the summit, so I climbed up and down an easier line (cl. 3).
JHH60 - Aug 27, 2010 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007
Crystal EnergyLoved the Crystal pitch!
SKI - Aug 2, 2010 10:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2010
Pretty sweet moves to the crystal pitchDid anyone else find a traverse to a face climb near the top of the second pitch? It was AWESOME!
granjero - Sep 9, 2009 10:22 pm
Crystal Pitch Rocks!Fun little route, worth it just to trip out for a while in the crystal pitch! Way cool.