Day 4 of our Sierra High Route trip. We woke early enough and headed around the north side of Lake Catherine. Ascended the NE glacier with crampons and axes before turning our tools and attention on the slightly more difficult glacier portion to access Ritter's North Face Route. Once on the route, I followed Mike's path and instructions when needed. We took the right hand chute. The climbing remained 3rd class but for me it was both chossy and exposed. Just when I felt I was reaching my breaking point I heard Mike announce "we're at the top" and as I turned the final corner I was relieved to see he wasn't pulling my leg. I had made it up! First laid eyes on this beast from the 2019 JMT hike, so stoked to be able to come back and summit. We descended without issue and then slogged up Banner's talus field to its summit. A great day in the mountains I will never forget.
Started from Ediza lake and got to the Ritter-Banner saddle. Then climbed North Face via Muir route. It seems to me that the first ten vertical feet of the chute just above the apex of the North Glacier is class 4. Descended via Right-hand chute.
Here is the video of the ascent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xZgSS4OMv0
Climbed the right hand chute and traversed to the West face close to the top. The snow from the saddle is steep. Bring crampons and ice axe.
Vertigo soul - Jun 30, 2010 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2009
N. Face direct
Classic Muir chute up the face from the saddle. Descended through the Secor chute on the way down....very chossy and loose. Great day and climb.
Sam Page - Apr 19, 2008 9:59 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 1994
Solo
I forget the exact date. I remember climbing steep snow above the saddle.
MichaelJ - Aug 7, 2007 3:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
North Face
After soloing a new route (I think) on Banner I descended the saddle and went up the Muir route on Ritter. Almost left the ax at home but was glad I had it to get up the snow field. The climbing was ok but a little dull, so I opted for some 5th class moves on the arete to the left of the chute. Descended the same way as Muir, on totally sucky screw and a snow field off the backside. Nice day over all.
colingregory - Jul 11, 2022 2:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2022
North Face of Mount RitterDay 4 of our Sierra High Route trip. We woke early enough and headed around the north side of Lake Catherine. Ascended the NE glacier with crampons and axes before turning our tools and attention on the slightly more difficult glacier portion to access Ritter's North Face Route. Once on the route, I followed Mike's path and instructions when needed. We took the right hand chute. The climbing remained 3rd class but for me it was both chossy and exposed. Just when I felt I was reaching my breaking point I heard Mike announce "we're at the top" and as I turned the final corner I was relieved to see he wasn't pulling my leg. I had made it up! First laid eyes on this beast from the 2019 JMT hike, so stoked to be able to come back and summit. We descended without issue and then slogged up Banner's talus field to its summit. A great day in the mountains I will never forget.
Simkin - Jul 12, 2015 2:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2015
North FaceStarted from Ediza lake and got to the Ritter-Banner saddle. Then climbed North Face via Muir route. It seems to me that the first ten vertical feet of the chute just above the apex of the North Glacier is class 4. Descended via Right-hand chute.
Here is the video of the ascent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xZgSS4OMv0
fatdad - Aug 26, 2011 7:47 pm
Good climbProbably a good 20 yrs. ago. Steep snow and then an icy chute made for an interesting climb. Should've done Banner too since I was there.
Darren9 - Aug 21, 2011 6:33 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011
RB twoferGreat route with lots of fun scrambling, routefinding, and snow climbing as well. Loose, but scenic. Climbed with Sierra Mountaineering Group.
hubix - Sep 15, 2010 8:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010
Steep snow.Climbed the right hand chute and traversed to the West face close to the top. The snow from the saddle is steep. Bring crampons and ice axe.
Vertigo soul - Jun 30, 2010 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2009
N. Face directClassic Muir chute up the face from the saddle. Descended through the Secor chute on the way down....very chossy and loose. Great day and climb.
Sam Page - Apr 19, 2008 9:59 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 1994
SoloI forget the exact date. I remember climbing steep snow above the saddle.
MichaelJ - Aug 7, 2007 3:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
North FaceAfter soloing a new route (I think) on Banner I descended the saddle and went up the Muir route on Ritter. Almost left the ax at home but was glad I had it to get up the snow field. The climbing was ok but a little dull, so I opted for some 5th class moves on the arete to the left of the chute. Descended the same way as Muir, on totally sucky screw and a snow field off the backside. Nice day over all.