Up the west chute, across the catwalk, and past the two chockstones. Fun route finding on the way to the summit block. A tragic fatal accident the day before (somewhere in the vicinity of the catwalk) had us going slowly and carefully.
krrt2000 - Feb 24, 2012 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1994
Southwest (original) Route
Great route, my friend Duane had to leave following the climb of T-Bolt the day before due to altitude sickness. Met Anthony Ambrose on the trail and climbed it with him the next day. Next morning 2-3 inches of snow everywhere, packed up for a hot shower at Parchers.
efunk - Oct 7, 2011 1:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Beautiful Area
Amazing views along the traverse. Hope to head back soon to do the t-bolt - sill in its entirety.
dpsiebert - Sep 20, 2011 5:22 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2011
Traverse from Starlight
Good climbing, impressive exposure!
Bill562 - Sep 19, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2011
North Pal wknd
With Oleg R car to summit via West chute to U notch and up the face left of chimney. Descended via Le Conte, camped near base of Starlight NW chute.
ElGreco - Aug 14, 2011 6:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011
U-notch + chimney
Fantastic climbing with Jack in an exhilarating setting! Perfect weather. U-notch was mostly snow with some ice which could be skirted. The bergschrund was passable on the right with 15ft or so of near vertical snow climbing. The 2nd pitch of the chimney above the notch has a few interesting moves. We stayed on the ridge crest after the chimney on the way to the summit, past two gendarmes, instead of dropping down into the other side - not necessary, but made for very exposed and exciting climbing (up to 4th class). Getting from the notch to the summit took a couple of hours. 12 hours total from camp and back. Highly recommended route!
kaos14 - Aug 5, 2011 2:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
Traverse from T-bolt
Not too hard going from Starlight to NorPal.
Darren9 - Aug 2, 2011 1:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2011
great route
Climbed U-Notch with 4 others during SMG outing. Took a long time but we got the summit and back to the glacier by rappelling through the night. Great route!
quite a bit easier than hype about this traverse lets on. n pal is of course the high point, but not the amazing spire of tbolt or the milk bottle
dshirl - Jul 4, 2011 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011
4 climbers via U-notch and Clyde route
Beautiful day. Pretty good snow conditions, albeit slushy in the evening.
Bergschrund is wide open, and took us quite a while to pass. In the middle its about 15 feet wide and 20 feet deep (and overhanging). We were able to surpass on the right hand side of the schrund, where its more mellow (8' of mixed climbing). There's two other exposed crevasses (significantly smaller than the schrund); use good judgment.
TheNobleSunfish - Jun 29, 2011 3:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Thunderbolt to North Pal
With Pratyush!
saltlick - Jun 27, 2011 7:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
too sick for a summit photo!
AMS hit me hard near the summit of Starlight, and we only summited N Pal cuz it was on the way to the U-Notch descent! Wonderful, varied climbing and unparalleled position throughout made for a memorable day.
pratyush - Jun 27, 2011 1:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
TB to North Pal
climbed as 3-member team, bailed when it was 6.30 and we were still at U-Notch. The 3 peaks that we did were awesome though!
Traverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium-encountered some obnoxious ice on the route
Ol Walsher - Sep 11, 2010 10:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
West Chute U-Notch LeConte Ledge
Awesome 4th class climb. Had lots of good rappels on the way down. The ledge lived up to its name........I don't think I ever looked down!
Jesus Malverde - Sep 10, 2010 4:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2002
U-Notch Chimmney Variation
In 2002, I lived in a condo box with my cat, climbing gear, bicycles, yada yada... The desperation occurred during a day-long, 19+ hour ascent of North Palisade con mi compadre Antonio. I'd been gnawing on Clif Bars all day and whilst on the descent down the U-Notch, suddenly, despite me hunger, I couldn't take another bite. That's because I was literally gagging and beginning to dry vomit trying to get that hunk of sugar grain down me gullet. That's the moment I now call "the epiphany." Two days later, after countless flashbacks of that nauseous moment, energy gels became a reality. The mission to achieve better nutritional fueling was accomplished. Thanks, GU, Hammer, et.al!
tb00957 - Jun 28, 2010 5:22 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010
U-notch, chimney
Great climb. A bit concerned about the rock fall.
pratyush - Jun 9, 2010 12:18 pm Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2010
summitted
...with Caltech Alpine Club on their annual advanced winter mountaineering trip, on 27-28 Mar' 2010, via the class 5 U-Notch + Chimney Variation
Hyadventure - Jun 8, 2010 5:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010
U-Notch (Glacier Side) + Chimney
I loved the route; the long a$$ approach, snow travel across the glacier, crossing the schrund, climbing the couloir, a couple pitches of climbing at 14k, and then a nicely exposed scramble to the summit. It’s got everything. Overall the most challenging 14’er I’ve climbed.
ckerth - Sep 20, 2012 10:06 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012
West ChuteUp the west chute, across the catwalk, and past the two chockstones. Fun route finding on the way to the summit block. A tragic fatal accident the day before (somewhere in the vicinity of the catwalk) had us going slowly and carefully.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 27, 2012 3:44 pm
Winter climbIn Febuary traversed from Sill to Starlight.
krrt2000 - Feb 24, 2012 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 1994
Southwest (original) RouteGreat route, my friend Duane had to leave following the climb of T-Bolt the day before due to altitude sickness. Met Anthony Ambrose on the trail and climbed it with him the next day. Next morning 2-3 inches of snow everywhere, packed up for a hot shower at Parchers.
efunk - Oct 7, 2011 1:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Beautiful AreaAmazing views along the traverse. Hope to head back soon to do the t-bolt - sill in its entirety.
dpsiebert - Sep 20, 2011 5:22 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2011
Traverse from StarlightGood climbing, impressive exposure!
Bill562 - Sep 19, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2011
North Pal wkndWith Oleg R car to summit via West chute to U notch and up the face left of chimney. Descended via Le Conte, camped near base of Starlight NW chute.
ElGreco - Aug 14, 2011 6:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011
U-notch + chimneyFantastic climbing with Jack in an exhilarating setting! Perfect weather. U-notch was mostly snow with some ice which could be skirted. The bergschrund was passable on the right with 15ft or so of near vertical snow climbing. The 2nd pitch of the chimney above the notch has a few interesting moves. We stayed on the ridge crest after the chimney on the way to the summit, past two gendarmes, instead of dropping down into the other side - not necessary, but made for very exposed and exciting climbing (up to 4th class). Getting from the notch to the summit took a couple of hours. 12 hours total from camp and back. Highly recommended route!
kaos14 - Aug 5, 2011 2:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011
Traverse from T-boltNot too hard going from Starlight to NorPal.
Darren9 - Aug 2, 2011 1:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2011
great routeClimbed U-Notch with 4 others during SMG outing. Took a long time but we got the summit and back to the glacier by rappelling through the night. Great route!
zoomloco - Jul 16, 2011 4:28 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010
t-bolt to sillquite a bit easier than hype about this traverse lets on. n pal is of course the high point, but not the amazing spire of tbolt or the milk bottle
dshirl - Jul 4, 2011 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2011
4 climbers via U-notch and Clyde routeBeautiful day. Pretty good snow conditions, albeit slushy in the evening.
Bergschrund is wide open, and took us quite a while to pass. In the middle its about 15 feet wide and 20 feet deep (and overhanging). We were able to surpass on the right hand side of the schrund, where its more mellow (8' of mixed climbing). There's two other exposed crevasses (significantly smaller than the schrund); use good judgment.
TheNobleSunfish - Jun 29, 2011 3:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Thunderbolt to North PalWith Pratyush!
saltlick - Jun 27, 2011 7:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
too sick for a summit photo!AMS hit me hard near the summit of Starlight, and we only summited N Pal cuz it was on the way to the U-Notch descent! Wonderful, varied climbing and unparalleled position throughout made for a memorable day.
pratyush - Jun 27, 2011 1:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
TB to North Palclimbed as 3-member team, bailed when it was 6.30 and we were still at U-Notch. The 3 peaks that we did were awesome though!
Daria - Sep 26, 2010 7:41 pm Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010
Palisade traverseTraverse from Thunderbolt to Polemonium-encountered some obnoxious ice on the route
Ol Walsher - Sep 11, 2010 10:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
West Chute U-Notch LeConte LedgeAwesome 4th class climb. Had lots of good rappels on the way down. The ledge lived up to its name........I don't think I ever looked down!
Jesus Malverde - Sep 10, 2010 4:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2002
U-Notch Chimmney VariationIn 2002, I lived in a condo box with my cat, climbing gear, bicycles, yada yada... The desperation occurred during a day-long, 19+ hour ascent of North Palisade con mi compadre Antonio. I'd been gnawing on Clif Bars all day and whilst on the descent down the U-Notch, suddenly, despite me hunger, I couldn't take another bite. That's because I was literally gagging and beginning to dry vomit trying to get that hunk of sugar grain down me gullet. That's the moment I now call "the epiphany." Two days later, after countless flashbacks of that nauseous moment, energy gels became a reality. The mission to achieve better nutritional fueling was accomplished. Thanks, GU, Hammer, et.al!
tb00957 - Jun 28, 2010 5:22 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2010
U-notch, chimneyGreat climb. A bit concerned about the rock fall.
pratyush - Jun 9, 2010 12:18 pm Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2010
summitted...with Caltech Alpine Club on their annual advanced winter mountaineering trip, on 27-28 Mar' 2010, via the class 5 U-Notch + Chimney Variation
Hyadventure - Jun 8, 2010 5:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010
U-Notch (Glacier Side) + ChimneyI loved the route; the long a$$ approach, snow travel across the glacier, crossing the schrund, climbing the couloir, a couple pitches of climbing at 14k, and then a nicely exposed scramble to the summit. It’s got everything. Overall the most challenging 14’er I’ve climbed.